Tiller Got a used tiller today

[JDdude]

Yanmar 4 1/2 ft gear drive with guage wheels. I need to get a 1 ft top link then I can use it. Bought it from a guy for 450 bucks. Looks real sturdy and will mostlikly do all the tilling I will ever need to do..

 

[Inspector507]

Check back with him and see if he has the correct top link, sometimes they are special one.

 

[Egon]

You could also have a top link made. Weld on ends are readily available.

Egon

 

[Villengineer]

I've got a used 1303 and to make it fit my Satoh I had cut an old top link down to make it work. I think I cut it down to about 8" and use it extended out to about 11". I also had to shorten the PTO shaft that came with it. Once I made it fit, it works great except I'm limited on how high I can raise it while running due to the angle of the PTO shaft. Since you have the guage wheels you could probably hook up the lift arms and then simply adjust the angle the tiller sets using guage wheel adjustment. Once that angle is correct, just measure what the upper link and PTO lengths should be. I would leave myself a couple inches of adjustment on the top link from that point. Hope this helps.

 

[JDdude]

The guy I got it from sells alot of them and he showed me the top link he uses. 12 inches eye to eye. The guage wheels seem to make sence to me for my 2210. Less load on the hitch and a height adjustment that my tractor does not have.

when the tractor goes up the tiller will stay the same height plus I can just skim the top 2 inches of ground if I need to.

It appears that the drive shaft he gave me will be just right. Need to polish it up a bit and lube the u joints.

I should get some seat time this weekend..

 

[Wannafish]

Why not use a chain as a toplink until you can get one made?

 

[Villengineer]

I also bought mine from a guy who sells a lot of them. He also suggested that I use a 12" link, but I found that for my tractor it was a bit too long and none of the nearby tractor places had anything shorter than a 14" link. I wish my tiller still had it's guage wheels as I could then put the 3pnt in float mode and maintain tilling depth. When you don't want to till full depth it's a real pain to keep adjusting the 3pnt. Been thinking about designing/building a way to set the depth on the tiller. I'd try and find some guage wheels but I've found the compactness of the tiller without them to be handy. Also thought about making a roller like set-up to make it somewhat like one of those landscaping attachments.

 

[Villengineer]

Forward rotating tines. My tiller really isn't heavy enough to keep from bouncing around if it only had a chain for the top link. Now if it had reverse rotation tines a chain might work.

 

[LoganWildman]

I have heard that reverse rotating tine tillers are very expensive. Also, who makes them?

 

[JDdude]

Well I have been investigating this tillar setup today with my tractor backed up to it. The drive shaft is not quite the right lenght with the 12 in top link I made and then the 3 point wont raise it much off of the ground , about 2 inches maybe.

SO I have decided to relocate the lift pins on the sides forward and lower so I can raise it more off of the ground,then my drive shaft will fit and I can use my original top link.

I also firgured out a way to make it a quick hitch but I would have to lengthen the drive shaft alot. This would cost alot because I would have to buy yokes shaft and new U joints. My drive shaft is in good condition and is a spline type not just a square shaft. So it is cheaper to relocate the lift pins.

that is my game plan so far. Hope to get some of it welded up tomarrow and see how it all works out. If this doesnt work out right I will make it a quick hitch and buy new drive shaft materials..

edit: The guage wheels on this tillar will fold up over the unit if needed to. Plus they can removed very easily..

The quick hitch setup is really got my gears turning. I would like that setup, but I am getting cheap and do not want to spend anymore money..