got a water well problem

   / got a water well problem #11  
I've had the same symptoms. Mine was the run cap shorted. Happened a few times before the ole 1976 Franklin gave up 2 years ago. If you have a ohm meter, and with the cap disconnected from the circuit on both legs, run an ohm meter between the terminals. I would bet it would show continuity with high resistance. Can do the same with the start cap to test it too.

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
   / got a water well problem #12  
I'm a licensed irrigator in Texas, designing to the pump on well systems was always the goal but proper hydrozoning almost never made it possible. Any system I put on a well got a shiny new Cycle Stop Valve installed as well. I've seen irrigation systems on wells that short-cycled the pump constantly (not mine) and the first thing I would suggest was adding a Cycle Stop. Sometimes they'd agree, other times not. The ones that didn't usually ended up with a burned up pump before too long. The ones that did had already replaced a pump or two and knew I was being honest.
 
   / got a water well problem #13  
I'm a licensed irrigator in Texas, designing to the pump on well systems was always the goal but proper hydrozoning almost never made it possible. Any system I put on a well got a shiny new Cycle Stop Valve installed as well. I've seen irrigation systems on wells that short-cycled the pump constantly (not mine) and the first thing I would suggest was adding a Cycle Stop. Sometimes they'd agree, other times not. The ones that didn't usually ended up with a burned up pump before too long. The ones that did had already replaced a pump or two and knew I was being honest.

:thumbsup:
 
   / got a water well problem
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Well, Valveman, Gota thank you, on the way out to the lower ranch wife and I picked up a 1hp pump and a control box. When we got there I got out of van and walked over to the pit, took the top off the control box (a Franklin) and put the new top or face (utilitech) fit perfect. Wifey threw the breaker an on came the water. I opened the valve to the bladder, on the pressure tank and out came water, so tomorrow I'll pick up a pressure tank and install it.

I was pretty sure the Capacitor was good until your post, Thank you may the Lord bless you and your loved ones.

Richard
 
   / got a water well problem
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Valveman, If I install a Cycle Stop Valve, can I use a 20 gal pressure tank or must/should I get a say 5 gal tank?

Thank you

Richard
 
   / got a water well problem #16  
You can use any size tank you want with a CSV. A 20 gallon tank only holds 5 gallons of water and would not be large enough without a CSV. But when you have a CSV a 4.5 gallon tank is really all you need.
 
   / got a water well problem
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Greetings Valveman, Thanks for taking the time to post.

We've three properties with wells.. I've looked at the CSVs and think the CSV12560 might serve our needs,(look non adjustable)

These can, I'm guessing, be installed outside the well casing and horizontal? Is that 5gal tank they use with a CSV a bladder tank?


Richard
 
   / got a water well problem #18  
As long as the max pressure of the pump is less than 150 psi, the CSV125 will work fine.

And diaphragm tanks are better than bladder tanks.
 
   / got a water well problem #19  
Seems much better to use a large unpressurized tank that the well pump simply fills. Then the tank water gravity flows to a pressure pump, with pressure tank, that supplies the house. This is what I have and my well cycles about once every other day. The well does not have to supply house pressure and I have reserve water for power failures or well failures.

I built a controller that manages it all. Really a very simple design.
 
   / got a water well problem #20  
Seems much better to use a large unpressurized tank that the well pump simply fills. Then the tank water gravity flows to a pressure pump, with pressure tank, that supplies the house. This is what I have and my well cycles about once every other day. The well does not have to supply house pressure and I have reserve water for power failures or well failures.

I built a controller that manages it all. Really a very simple design.

You still need a Cycle Stop Valve on the booster pump, as that is now the one that cycles on and off to supply the house. What you have makes a good system, but there are as many cons to a storage tank as there are pros. I wouldn't use a storage tank unless it was necessary. And if you use a CSV on the well pump, it will no longer fail from cycling to death.

With a storage tank you have to pump the same water twice. You need twice as many pumps and components, have twice as many components to fail, and you will use twice as much electricity. If the well pump fails you only have a day or two in storage, so you still have to get the well pump fixed as soon as possible anyway. If the booster pump fails, you have to draw water from the storage tank with a bucket.

Pumping directly from the well the water is always fresh. It hasn't been sitting in a tank exposed to heat, air, and other things that can cause contamination.

If the well will not make enough flow for peak demands, if the well is 500'+ deep and takes a while to get serviced, or the water needs to be treated in some way, then I would consider a cistern storage tank. Otherwise there are many benefits to pumping directly from the well as long as you eliminate pump cycling from the equation.
 

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