Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!!

   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #61  
That is one beautiful trailer you have there! I'm sure it will serve you well for a long time. Have you tried loading your tractor on it yet? The ramps look to be a little on the short side. I made my ramps 5 feet long, and they are just barely long enough when loading my tractor with a bush hog or a backhoe on the back. I wish I made them 6 feet long. Again, good luck with your new trailer!

Corm
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #62  
I too appreciate the discussion. I had been wondering whether a WD hitch was a worthwhile investment. It looks like it is. Thanks much.

Joe
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #63  
Have any of you folks ever heard good/bad reviews concerning the hitch balls that could be quickly removed? The removal is done by sliding a 1/4" retaining pin out of the ball from along its diameter. That lets the ball loose. The ball is then pulledl straight up off the main shank. Another ball of a different size can then be placed over the end of the main shank, a retaining pin pushed back into the ball along its diameter.

I found a three ball set at TSC. Are these safe to use?
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #64  
I use this style. In about a year and a half the only issue that I have have is turning the "lock button" , but after a little lubrication , it works good again. I choose this style over the type you are referring to since this would let the ball turn with the trailer.

My concern (and probably unfounded) with the style you are looking at is what if the pin breaks (should be unlikely). It was something that I did not want to find out about.

If I was not using a WD and had 2 different size ball requirements I would have probably bought the Pin style

Whatever you get make sure you get on with the correct weight rating for the trailer you are towing. (Both come in 5,000 and 10,000 lb choices.)

Kurt
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #65  
I use the PIN style. Have had it for years and never had a problem. Very convienant and not very pricey.
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #66  
Thanks folks. I guess I'll open that package and put it to use. My set hast the 1-7/8, 2, 2-5/16 sizes all rated for 8000#.

Thanks again for your feedback.
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!!
  • Thread Starter
#67  
Corm,

Same thought. BB drags a hare, but dealer says its ok. He suggested the extra height ramps would be a pain to lift, detach, and ride with as they obviously stick up farther.

Will have to wait and see. If a problem I think the cash might have to go into a TNT instead of a new set of ramps - dont know. What do you think?
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!!
  • Thread Starter
#68  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I wasn't liking being the lone ranger on this one. )</font>
No offense Kimosabbi, but with that smirk on your face as you rode in and shot up the town, you could have fooled me.

- Tonto

Seriously, I would have gladly given up my happy day post to a factual discussion even a useful infomercial on WD's. I got disconnected with the intent with the statement " that hitch is only good for towing a single axle 4x8 trailer or the pictrured trailer empty" Possibly you came on too strong? High O Silver and all that...

I think maybe you did but didnt mean to - only to educate those with less expertise.

Checking your bio, I was suprised to see you were a civil engineer. First the only things I took issue with were either flat out mistatements, or unfair hacks on a piece of gear (garden trailer comment re: the hitch).

Second, probably shouldnt argue with another (mechanical) engineer in public. Confuses people and I am sure you would agree that is not what we should be doing.

You obviously have a lot of good experience with tow vehicles and we all appreciate that. Myself included. I feel very comfortable with my understanding of not only statics, but kinematics and dynamics of mechanical systems and worked hard to get a professional license to that extent. Also as a member of SAE Society of Automotive Engineers since 1980, I was suprised when you were quoting the sticker numbers from GM hitches. That is generic data. The GCWR is the calculation that should be used. Befuddled when you mentioned the otherwise weak GM reciever would somehow be able to carry more load because of the W/D. The reciever is designed to carry the load of the max rated amount. The WD has no effect on lessening the push pull stress of a 10 or 12000 lb payload, so that is its upper design limit (with safety factors applied). I reacted to what I understood as a suggestion otherwise.

Anyway, my appologies to all for any offense or confusion. Was making an effort to share joy...that turned into an attempt to share some information... and somehow ended up on the slippery slope of unintentionally defending an inantimate object.

Hopefully there are no hard feelings.

This forum is great but we tend to get a little huffy too fast. We should all remember this is a recreational forum = we're here to have fun. Lets try to slow inferences like "good luck but your doing it all wrong". Everone has the right to their own opinions.

That said, sinice the discussion on straps, I have (quickly) passed so many trailers lately with large tractors on them secured only by fraying straps! Wow.

BTW my BH is finally in and I go to visit my completed tractor this AM. Delivery later this week. Cant wait.

Be Safe All. And thanks for making this a lively and informative post.
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #69  
You may be able to place a block under the back of each ramp that will make loading easier. Just high enough so the front wheel has no trouble getting on the ramp.

Another method has you parking in a location which brings the back of the trailer closer to the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Got My New Trailer Today...SWEEET!! #70  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Actually thinking about this now it helps to explain the Weight Distibuting affect of a WD hitch. We are reversing the pivoting (teetering) of tongue weight. Connection (hitch) sits higher and transfers that weight to the front tires on the tow vehicle and the rear tires on the trailer.
)</font>
IMO, a WD hitch does not work because of the height of the connection, since it uses the same receiver mounting point on the vehicle, and the location of the hitch ball is adjustable up and down to match the specific vehicle. Otherwise, your description is accurate. IMO, it is actually the torsion bars, and their shape that makes a WD hitch work. The torsion bars are shaped like an "L" lying on its side, i.e. _____|

The short leg of that L is attached to the vehicle (actually to the hitch) while the long leg is attached to the trailer. The trailer ball (and consequently the tongue weight) is attached near the short leg. The long legs go back underneath the trailer tongue and attach to the trailer tongue via chains. When tongue weight is applied, it pushes down on the short leg, which tries to change (increase) the angle and distance of the torsion bars in relation to the trailer tongue. The rear attaching chains prevent this from happening -- so, this downward force is transferred back to the short leg of the L -- where it pushes the top of that short leg forward, transferring that force to the vehicle's frame and onto the front wheels...

It is possible to actually lift the rear of the tow vehicle with a WD hitch and trailer, decreasing traction and braking on the rear. That's why chains are used on the rear of long legs on the hitch's torsion bars -- to provide for adjustment. These chains are used to adjust for different loads (and consequently different tongue weights) on the trailer -- by connecting with a different link of the chain. All this sounds more complicated than it really is -- yet it's difficult to explain without pictures or hands-on experience. Bottom line is that it is the upright, short leg of the L-shaped torsion bar that tries to tilt forward under load, which transfers the weight from the trailer tongue to the frame and onto the front wheels of the tow vehicle.

Try to visualize this 'L" moving down toward the bottom of the screen: _______| Yet, the left end of the long leg is fixed, pivoting, and you see how this force is transferred to the short leg. That short leg is connected to the receiver (and frame) on the tow vehicle by a butt joint, so this force is transferred on to the front wheels. The torsion bars essentially bridge the connection between the vehicle and the trailer. Note also that WD hitches come with different torsion bars based upon the anticipated weight of the trailer and load. Common sizes are 7 or 7.5K, 10K, 12.5K, etc.

BTW, I use an inexpensive Hidden Hitch WD hitch to pull up to around 5,000 lbs behind a Dodge Dakota. Trailer is a tandem with 3500 lb axles and electric brakes. Truck is a Dakota Quad Cab with a 4.7L V8, rated for pulling 5,800 lbs. (Dakotas are rated up to 7,000 lbs based on engine, cab, axle, and 2WD or 4WD). Before this truck/trailer/hitch combo, I was pulling with a 1500 Ram and an F-150 before that. I don't need to haul huge loads (have smaller tractors), but I do tow for long distances. For example, last summer I did a trip to the Midwest where I put over 2500 miles on the trailer. I make fairly regular 900 mile one way (1800 round trip) pulls between Massachusetts and Tennessee...

The Hidden Hitch WD hitch cost under $300 and was one of the best investments I've ever made....

JMHO, your mileage may vary!

Here's a longer, more detailed explanation of how WDs work:
Mr Truck page on WDs
 
 
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