Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!!

   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!! #61  
Flatness wasn't an issue as it was a new build, but these were S4S - smooth 4 sides so just butt joints, and the warpage was a challenge. Screwed a block of wood to the subfloor, then drove a wedge in to get them as tight as possible.

If you don't get the warp out, it compounds over the next 1-2 courses requiring planing and extra work.I didn't peg, just used spax gold color 1 1/2" finish screws every 32" which are barely noticeable once sanded and poly coated.
 
   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!!
  • Thread Starter
#62  
Flatness wasn't an issue as it was a new build, but these were S4S - smooth 4 sides so just butt joints, and the warpage was a challenge. Screwed a block of wood to the subfloor, then drove a wedge in to get them as tight as possible.

If you don't get the warp out, it compounds over the next 1-2 courses requiring planing and extra work.I didn't peg, just used spax gold color 1 1/2" finish screws every 32" which are barely noticeable once sanded and poly coated.
Did you glue? They insisted on gluing and nailing my 5 inch flooring
 
   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!! #63  
No glue - PT Framing (2" foam board between joists), with 3/4 PT Plywood on top of deck, then asphalt paper underlayment, then red rosin paper and the pine on top of that.

Floor boards had been in the top of my barn 10 years, dry and no shrinkage. The 6x8 oak beams were 9-10% moisture so pretty dry too - you only see 2" of them - similar to a SIP frame.
 
   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!! #64  
HH, when milling your trim boards for windows and doors, cut opposing boards from a book matched piece. This way you see the same grain pattern on both sides of the doors or windows. I did this when I trimmed our windows and doors with white pine. Cut/sawmill the boards at 10/4 (2 1/4") thick, dry then resaw on bandsaw to 1"+ then plane to final thickness. Now you have a set of book matched boards. But don't tell your guests, see if they recognize what you did. Jon
 
   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!!
  • Thread Starter
#65  
HH, when milling your trim boards for windows and doors, cut opposing boards from a book matched piece. This way you see the same grain pattern on both sides of the doors or windows. I did this when I trimmed our windows and doors with white pine. Cut/sawmill the boards at 10/4 (2 1/4") thick, dry then resaw on bandsaw to 1"+ then plane to final thickness. Now you have a set of book matched boards. But don't tell your guests, see if they recognize what you did. Jon
DANG thats fancy!!!! But pretty cool idea.
 
   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!! #67  
Here is a picture of our living room windows and door. Jon
 

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   / Got my sawmill up and running!!! TIME TO MILL!!! #70  
Good looking Ash Mr. Hawkins!
 

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