Got rid of the wheel bolts.

[BravoXray]

I haven't had to take wheels off my BX2230 very often, but when I did, I always cursed the damn wheel bolts. They are a real PIA to get back on, even after I made a couple of alignment studs. A while back, I replaced the front wheel bolts with 7/16"-20 studs and nuts, and the one time I have had one off since, it was a whole lot easier to remount.
So, I finally replaced the ones on the rear wheels today. I bought some 1/2"-20 threaded rod from McMaster-Carr, cut it into 2" long pieces and bought ten 1/2" wheel nuts at NAPA. I removed three of the bolts on each wheel and installed the studs with blue Lock-Tite. I let it set up, installed the nuts and then replaced the other two bolts. Torqued them to 70 ft lbs, so it's all ready to go for mowing season.

 

[dstig1]

I hope you got Grade 5 threaded rod, at least...

 

[part-time-Farmer-NC]

Just curios what stops them from backing out, the Loctite? May not happen, but seems it could back out. I know 70# torque is pretty stout and that may be all thats needed. Just a new way of thinking to me, then again I don't have a Kubota either, so hard to fathom your complaints with mounting them.

 

[gstrom99]

I hope you got Grade 5 threaded rod, at least...

My thoughts exactly. I'd have searched out "real" wheel studs, like these - if there's room to get 'em in from the back.

ARP 100-7704 ARP Wheel Studs | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Wheel Studs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheel Studs at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[BravoXray]

I hope you got Grade 5 threaded rod, at least...

Yes, it's grade 5. Grade 8 would have been overkill and three time the cost.

Just curios what stops them from backing out, the Loctite? May not happen, but seems it could back out. I know 70# torque is pretty stout and that may be all thats needed. Just a new way of thinking to me, then again I don't have a Kubota either, so hard to fathom your complaints with mounting them.

I have no idea how they could back out, between the Lock-Tite and the thousands of pounds of clamping force provided, I see no more possibility of them backing out than that of the original bolts backing out. Ain't gonna happen.

My thoughts exactly. I'd have searched out "real" wheel studs, like these - if there's room to get 'em in from the back.

ARP 100-7704 ARP Wheel Studs | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - ARP Wheel Studs with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Wheel Studs at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

To install auto style studs, I would have to had to remove the tires, which are loaded with fluid and heavy, remove the axles, drill out the axle flange to a specific size for the studs, and the press them in. Now, if any subsequent owner wants to put the bolts back in, which are in a bag with all my other spare Kubota parts, just remove the studs and install the bolts. Way simpler and cheaper. I only have about $30 in the threaded rod and nuts.

 

[oldnslo]

The only thing that I have noticed with studs is the exposed threads fill with mud or crud making them more challenging to remove the nut but still far superior in lining up the tire for mounting.

A little surprised American SAE threads on a Kubota.

 

[scootr]

Put but bolt marker pen on all my lug nuts and subframe bolts so I can visually check without having to get a torque wrench etc out.

 

[Henro]

and installed the studs with blue Lock-Tite.

Hummmmm...Why blue? I would have used red LOCTITE myself. Just curious...

 

[dstig1]

I actually agree with you on studs vs bolts for wheels. Since I now own a couple German cars, I have gotten to find that they like bolts vs studs on every american and Japanese car and truck I have previously owned. Bolts are much more of a PITA. On my Grand L-series Kubota, the wheels have 2 studs and the rest bolts. Clearly the reason for that is usability as it is a royal PITA to line up and start a wheel with only bolts. I can only conclude that bolts are cheaper.

I just wanted to make sure you used decent material as when someone says threaded rod, most of what you find is low grade stuff. As you know, you can find higher grade material from places like McMaster, but you need to know to do it. Sounds like you should be covered

 

[BravoXray]

Hummmmm...Why blue? I would have used red LOCTITE myself. Just curious...

Because that's what I had in my toolbox. Didn't feel like spending another $20 on a bottle of red that I would probably never use again.

I mowed three acres with it today, neither of the wheels fell off, and after I finished up, I rechecked the nuts, the torque was still right at 70 ft lbs.