Got rid of the wheel bolts.

[mapper]

Helped a friend put a wheel back on his BX, it was a real pain to get it lined up for sure.
Just had to remove the right rear wheel on my Massey Ferguson to install rear remotes. Replacing it was pretty easy, but it was parked on concrete with a hydraulic jack to aid in lining it up. Thinking it would have been a whole different story out in the field.

 

[mllud]

Wheel bolts are a pain. You should be ok with your new studs.
If you ever need studs other than the ones that drive in from the back side Nqpa sells studs that have course threads on one half and fine threads on the other half, head bolts.
They would screw right in.
1/2" studs would be about $9 bucks each at Napa
Soo your way ahead with your fix.

I bought threaded rod from that rack at Tractor Supply and was going to braze a nut on one end. I put the torch to it and it melted off in seconds. Don't buy that!
Must have been Magnesium.
I can't read those tiny tags without cheater glasses.
I Screwed up on that day!

 

[yanmars]

If it was magnesium would it have caught fire and not been easy to extinguish?

 

[chim]

Lug bolts are not fun. One of my early cars had lug bolts. I think it was a '59 Buick. It may have even used left-hand bolts on the one side.

 

[mllud]

If it was magnesium would it have caught fire and not been easy to extinguish?

That is true, may have been zinc or an alloy. I think the threaded rod is made for ceiling hangers. The store rack also had the long nuts to join two rods.

 

[BravoXray]

The only thing that I have noticed with studs is the exposed threads fill with mud or crud making them more challenging to remove the nut but still far superior in lining up the tire for mounting.

A little surprised American SAE threads on a Kubota.

I really don't get the tractor into mud, nor does it set outside when not being used, so rust is really not a concern. Also, the studs and nuts are cad plated, and I used anti-seize on them when I installed the nuts, which will protect the threads from rusting.

Yes, the BX has a strange mix of SAE and metric fasteners on it. As far as I have noticed, only the wheel hardware is SAE, everything else I've encountered has been metric.

 

[dougtrr2]

The only thing that I have noticed with studs is the exposed threads fill with mud or crud making them more challenging to remove the nut but still far superior in lining up the tire for mounting.

A little surprised American SAE threads on a Kubota.

When I look at the pictures of the installed studs, one shows the nuts flush with the top of the stud and the other shows various stud exposure.

Is it an optical illusion? It might be worth trimming the studs so they are flush with the top of the nut, then you would have the problem that oldnslo mentioned.

Doug in SW IA

 

[gstrom99]

To install auto style studs, I would have to had to remove the tires, which are loaded with fluid and heavy, remove the axles, drill out the axle flange to a specific size for the studs, and the press them in. Now, if any subsequent owner wants to put the bolts back in, which are in a bag with all my other spare Kubota parts, just remove the studs and install the bolts. Way simpler and cheaper. I only have about $30 in the threaded rod and nuts.

No, those studs I found/posted were "regular" bolts, with allen head. They would screw in from the back, using the threads already there in the hub.

My Deere has bolts also, yes they are a PITA!

Anyway, it's already done, so - Good Job...

 

[BravoXray]

When I look at the pictures of the installed studs, one shows the nuts flush with the top of the stud and the other shows various stud exposure.

Is it an optical illusion? It might be worth trimming the studs so they are flush with the top of the nut, then you would have the problem that oldnslo mentioned.

Doug in SW IA

In the picture of the front wheels, the studs only protrude about an eighth of an inch beyond the nuts, but the rear studs protrude about 3/8" of an inch or so. I just made them a little longer than the would have had to be, but it's not going to be a problem. Better too long than too short in my book. Also, like I said in a previous post, my tractor doesn't get int mud or water, so rusting or corrosion isn't going to be a problem.

 

[BravoXray]

No, those studs I found/posted were "regular" bolts, with allen head. They would screw in from the back, using the threads already there in the hub.

My Deere has bolts also, yes they are a PITA!

Anyway, it's already done, so - Good Job...

The first time I tried the link to those studs, it didn't work for some reason, and I wrote my reply based on the supposition that they were normal type studs that are pressed in. Later I tried the link again, and saw that they were fully threaded studs that would install from the back side of the axle flange. They were a lot longer than I needed though, and that would give me a problem getting the left wheel mounted as the guage wheel on the rear of the mower deck gives very little clearance for pulling the wheel out from the hub. Even the studs I used made it a bit of a PIA to get back on then I had to remove it the other day to grease the MMM deck's rear u-joint.
They would also be overkill for what they are used for.