I purchased a GR2100 an am very pleased with it. The only problem I see is when it is in reverse and backing up hill it is very weak on power and has actuall stopped backing on a very steep slope. I also have a B7610 that will back up a mountain. My dealer says that this is normal. Any other GR2100 owners see this same problem and is it normal. I checked the reverse linkage and don't see any adjustment that could make a difference.
GR2100 reverse
- Thread starter treitz
- Start date
eaf
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2005
- Messages
- 58
- Location
- Hartselle, Alabama
- Tractor
- Kubota L3130 GST 4x4, BX25D-1, RTV 1100, Craftsman FS5500
When I first purchased my GR2100 I had a problem backing up a hill with the cyclone rake attached, of course full. I wasn’t running at full throttle, still breaking it in. I checked the linkage, no problem there. However, when I ran it at full throttle it backed up the steepest hill with the CR filled up. I have a 4 wheel trailer that I had over loaded with flooring; it backed up an incline fine.
ed
ed
I have the same problem... also checked the linkage including the adjustment near the pedal someone suggested and I am running at full throttle. I have had to adjust the way I mow because of the lack of power in reverse.
I'VE BEEN LOOKING INTO THIS TG1860 REPLACEMENT THE GR2100 AND MY NEWEST DEALER IS DOING HIS BEST TO TALK ME OUT OF IT BECAUSE OF THE GLIDE STEER WARRANTIES HE HAS LEARNED OF. I'M GOING TO STICK MY NECK OUT HERE AND I CHALLENGE KUBOTA ENGINEERING TO SHOOT ME DOWN. lOOKING INTO THE PUBLIC INFORMATION OFFERED YOU WILL FIND ONLY A LINEAR GRAPH X-Y AXIS DEPICTING INNER REAR WHEEL TRACTION AS A PERCENT BASIS TO A LINEAR RELATIONSHIP FOR STEERING ANGLE. GET THE BROCHURE AND FOLLOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT. IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE GUYS IT'S PLAIN OLD MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE. ONCE YOU START SLIPPING THE REAR WHEELS BECAUSE YOU HAVE DEVIATED FROM 180 DEGREES STRAIGHT AHEAD REVERSE OR FORWARD YOU LOOSE THE MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE CREATED TORQUE IN THE DRIVE TRAIN. THE EXAMPLES IN THIS POST TALK ABOUT WEIGHT ON THE REAR WHEELS AND A SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER ALMOST PROPORTIONAL TO WEIGHT AND INCLINE EXPERIENCED. YOU f(x) BOYS LEVEL WITH CUSTOMERS AND EXPLAIN TO THEM THE ACTUAL LOSS OF POWER CAUSED BY THESE AREAS UNDER THE CURVE YOU WON'T MAKE PUBLIC THAT WILL EXPLAIN THIS PHENOMENON OF LOSE OF MECHANICAL ADVANTAGE. GIVE ME THE PLAIN OLD HYPOID GEARING SO I CAN DEAL WITH THE DERIVATION OF MEAN RADII RELATIONSHIPS RATHER THAN THE EFFICIENCY OF KUBOTAS WORM GEARING EFFICIENCIES OF 95% AT BEST IN A LINEAR RELATIONSHIP WITH PERFECT VISCOSITIES. SHAME ON YOU GUYS GETTING YOUR MARKETING GROUP TO BUY INTO AN OLD TECHNOLOGY LIKE IN THE G1800S MODEL THAT NEVER CAUGHT ON. COME ON YOU MECHANICAL ENGINEERS JUMP IN HERE AND MAKE THIS A MEGA POST THAT KUBOTA WILL HAVE TO ANSWER TO KEEP CUSTOMER LOYALTY IN THIS NEW MODEL USING AN OLD IDEA FROM THE LATE EIGHTIES THAT EAT THEM ALIVE IN WARRANTIES. LET'S SEE WHAT HAPPENS...
Ob1kubota said:
Wow, you do like to go into detail, however I believe you have totally missed the point. No one is talking about a loss of traction, even if the front wheels were turned thereby disconnecting power to one of the rear wheels, it would still leave 3 wheels to push you up the hill regardless, which is still considerable more than in a conventional drive in any case.
I know exactly what they're referring to because I experienced the exact same thing with my GR2100. It is a very simple case of adjusting a linkage that is underneath your left leg knee (approx. under the mower body) and you can in fact adjust so that reverse is just a fast and therefore deliver as much torque as forward motion. I've taken the deck off mine numerous times and studied the whole machine and still find it quite a fascinating and efficient means of getting the power to the ground without any sort of turf tearing and in fact aiding manoeuvrability, not hindering it!
You are right! I am not talking about a loss of traction. The whole glide steer system works great and I have no complaints in the engineering aspects. I have not tore a single blade of grass and cannot say that about any other machine I have ever owned.
I think that I need to adjust the reverse linkage as you stated. I will take a look at that tonight. I would not be upset if reverse was as fast as forward. Thanks for the info.
I think that I need to adjust the reverse linkage as you stated. I will take a look at that tonight. I would not be upset if reverse was as fast as forward. Thanks for the info.
The only problem I see is when it is in reverse and backing up hill it is very weak on power and has actuall stopped backing on a very steep slope. HUMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM How is my statement missing your post? I'm talking mechanical advantage dude do you know what that means?
Ok,Ok
Power is the wrong word. I am running out of reverse motion because of a lack of enough pressure to the hydrostatic system. My thought is that I don't have enough adjustment or the wrong adjustment at the pedal.
I will say again this machine is the best I have ever owned or operated and would buy another one in a minute. If you don't like it or are jealous because you didn't come up with the idea DON"T BUY ONE.
Power is the wrong word. I am running out of reverse motion because of a lack of enough pressure to the hydrostatic system. My thought is that I don't have enough adjustment or the wrong adjustment at the pedal.
I will say again this machine is the best I have ever owned or operated and would buy another one in a minute. If you don't like it or are jealous because you didn't come up with the idea DON"T BUY ONE.
Look for a 12mm ? threaded rod with a nut either side of the adjusting plate , you should also back off the adjusting bolts at the foot peddle at this stage and only resst on completion. I also took this opitunity to grind about 3mm off the stop lug on the bottom of the alloy foot peddle (giving you greater range)Any question's just asktreitz said: