Grab Hooks

Redneck_Randy · Jun 27, 2006

Picked up a couple cheap grab hooks from the local parts store the other day. Have a friend cutting 2 3"x6" 1/4" thick back plates for the hooks. For now there is no back bracing at all so I won't be using them for now till I get the plates drilled and bolted on. Anyone know where to buy weld on chain grab hooks off the internet?

Bedlam · Jun 27, 2006

Here a couple links. you can also grind, saw or cut off the ones you can buy in the hardware store to have a flat surface to weld on.
http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/hook...hooks&OVKEY=weldable grab hook&OVMTC=advanced

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/finditem.cfm?itemid=19912

http://www.buyersproducts.com/dispatch?cmd=fwd&fwdfile=catalog3t.jsp?id=10090139

Don't be afraid to just type into yahoo search what your looking for. Its fairly easy to 'search" out what you need.

3RRL · Jun 27, 2006

I got my weld on grabhooks at AW Direct (2nd address in the post above).
They are inexpensive, ship promptly and they are good.

Redneck_Randy · Jun 27, 2006

BIG Thanks for the URL's.

I swear I tried a Google for weld on grab hooks and just plain grab hoks and found nothing but other then what I just bought. LOL

RedRocker · Jun 30, 2006

Those would be slip hooks, I also used the AW direct grab hooks and welded them to the outside edge to take advantage of the strength there. I have a pic in the photo section that for some reason I can't attach here.

bones1 · Jun 30, 2006

Which would be better for all around use 5/16 or 3/8?

SkyPup · Jun 30, 2006

bones1 said:
Which would be better for all around use 5/16 or 3/8?

When you are using chain hooks and there are people working in close proximity to them when they are loaded, which would you want?

GeneD14 · Jun 30, 2006

bones1 said:
Which would be better for all around use 5/16 or 3/8?

Most chain binders that you buy that are sized for 3/8" are labeled 3/8 and 5/16 . The 3/8" grab hook is sized to handle either chain.

I would weld on 3/8" grab hooks and then you can use either size chain with your FEL.

Deerlope · Jun 30, 2006

I would want gr 70 5/16" chain min. If doin a lot of overhead lifting then I would use gr100.

leeinmemphis · Jun 30, 2006

I got my hooks from AW also and have been extremely pleased with them.

leeinmemphis · Jun 30, 2006

If you look close you can see the hooks on each end of this bucket. We also installed them on the factory bucket as well.

Sully2 · Jul 1, 2006

leeinmemphis said:
I got my hooks from AW also and have been extremely pleased with them.

Same here...very nice products and people to deal with !

Bob_Skurka · Jul 1, 2006

Redneck Randy you have slip hooks not grab hooks mounted on your bucket. Some people prefer slip hooks, some prefer grab hooks. Some people will mount grab hooks on the sides and a slip hook in the very center of the top lip of the bucket.

My personal opinion is that hooks should not be mounted on the bucket corners because if you are pulling with only one hook you can bend/tweak your loader out of square so that your loader arms are not parallel.

Once that happens the loader arms will never be bent back into square. This is probably more likely to happen on a smaller tractor (anything smaller than ~45hp)

I prefer to mount grab hooks in line with the loader arms. You can still tweak your loader out of square, but the chances are lower because you are not able to put as much lateral/twisting forces on the arm if the hook are in-line with the loader arm verses being mounted all the way out onto the bucket corners.

FWIW, I also bought the weld on hooks from AW Direct.

JerryG · Jul 1, 2006

Bob_Skurka said:
My personal opinion is that hooks should not be mounted on the bucket corners because if you are pulling with only one hook you can bend/tweak your loader out of square so that your loader arms are not parallel. Once that happens the loader arms will never be bent back into square. This is probably more likely to happen on a smaller tractor (anything smaller than ~45hp)

I prefer to mount grab hooks in line with the loader arms. You can still tweak your loader out of square, but the chances are lower because you are not able to put as much lateral/twisting forces on the arm if the hook are in-line with the loader arm verses being mounted all the way out onto the bucket corners.

FWIW, I also bought the weld on hooks from AW Direct.

I have two hooks mounted in-line with the dump cylinders. Like Bob has said if you pull from only one hook with them mounted that way, there is a high likelihood that the bucket could twist. That is why I make a point of always hooking to both hooks. With two hooks you can keep things from turning, that is one of the reasons that I have them where they are.

Dargo · Jul 1, 2006

I agree with the placement. Also, I have a 3/8" plate all the way across the top of my bucket and my hooks and hitch are welded to that heavy plate. I also got my hooks from AW and have always had superior service from them. They may not be the absolute cheapest, but on a couple of issues I've had over the years they have been very easy to work with and have always made things right.

Redneck_Randy · Jul 2, 2006

Bob_Skurka said:
mount grab hooks in line with the loader arms

That's good to know. I will weld the grab hooks inline with the loader arms. The slip hooks are for light lifting. I loaded a small trailer I have with a bunch of junk for the dump with things like an old striped down riding mower (no motor or tires), an old BBQ. Glad you guy's told me about warping the loader. Never even thought about that.

Thanks!

markct · Jul 2, 2006

"My personal opinion is that hooks should not be mounted on the bucket corners because if you are pulling with only one hook you can bend/tweak your loader out of square so that your loader arms are not parallel. Once that happens the loader arms will never be bent back into square. This is probably more likely to happen on a smaller tractor (anything smaller than ~45hp)"

i agree that loader hooks on the bucket corners can be bad for the machine, and its not just small machines, i have seen a few full sized payloaders tweaked from this. but they are very usefull if used properly, they are handy to get light objects into a corner or such and they are also handy when carrying long objects so keep them from swinging, and lastly they are good for lifting the bucket when its off the machine, but if the machine will be run by gorrilas then ya gota use caution with putting them on the edges, thats why our new JD544j loader with waste handler package just got a hook in the center

Sully2 · Jul 3, 2006

My grab hooks are weled "near" the ends of the bucket...but NOT onto the bucket material itself. The sheet metal for a bucket on a B3030 is "kindy skimpy"...so I had a 2 x 3 inch length of 1/4 inch thick angle iron welded full length across the rear lip...and had my hooks etc welded to the angle iron. In the center I had a "bracket"..??..welded where I can attach a hook...or a clevis..or whatever. Sometimes I use it with enough chain to form a "W" type sling for picking up logs far too wide to fit inside a 60 inch bucket.

Personally..I think the "secret" to NOT jacking the lift arms all out of shape ...is to get a good idea of the tractors limitations! A "BX"..isnt a B3030. A B3030 isnt a M5000...etc.

Sully2 · Jul 3, 2006

Hmmm..?? The pic didnt post??

flusher · Jul 3, 2006

Redneck_Randy said:
Picked up a couple cheap grab hooks from the local parts store the other day. Have a friend cutting 2 3"x6" 1/4" thick back plates for the hooks. For now there is no back bracing at all so I won't be using them for now till I get the plates drilled and bolted on. Anyone know where to buy weld on chain grab hooks off the internet?

Here's a shot of the chain hooks on my Kubota B7510HST/LA302 FEL. The dealer welded them on as a freebie. Got the hooks from AWDirect.

The hooks are aligned with the FEL arms and the top of the bucket is reinforced with a 1/4" thick plate for attaching the hooks.