Grable Opinions Needed

   / Grable Opinions Needed #1  

NCMau

Gold Member
Joined
Nov 5, 2009
Messages
293
Location
NC
Tractor
MF 202/Ford 8N
I am in the process of formulating a light duty grable for my bucket. It will be a two-fork set up about 6" apart. I am using a wood prototype for the positioning and profile. The bottom of the forks will be a set of box blade scarifiers.
I have a question for you guys that have build or are using one. Should the fork curl on the inside of the bucket or should it curl at he bottom?
I am leaning toward the inside, but I welcome opinions.
 

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   / Grable Opinions Needed #2  
I built mine. Bought a Bobcat LowPro bucket and added the Grapple. I use two cylinders, with two claws on each cylinder. Lets the Grapple pick up uneven or odd shaped loads better. My claws close on the edge of the bucket between the teeth. I don't see any reason for it to close any tighter which is what you would gain by allowing the claws to go inside the bucket.


















Sorry I couldn't find any close up photos of the build but I'll get you some if needed. There's a couple things I want to point out though.

There's no such thing as a light duty Grapple. That is unless you are hydraulicly educated enough to calculate forces exerted at the tips of the claws through the entire range of motion. The ability of the Grapple to grip is going to be determined by the cylinder size, geometric design and hydraulic pressure created by the tractor.

There's no such thing as lightly using a Grapple. By most designs when you activate the circuit the tractor is going to exert maximum hydraulic pressure into the system. The cylinder is going to transfer that pressure and flow into the design of the claw. The claw is going to clamp at whatever force the pressure/flow/design allow.

My point is, don't under build. If you do, you'll destroy your design the first few hours of use. I built mine to what I thought was overkill strength. Had to go back and add more bracing and reinforcement because I started bending the claws.

By design mine has a fairly soft grip when the claws are completely open. The amount of grip increases as they close. By the time the claws are almost closed against the bucket they have tremendous grip. I can pick up a large flat rock with one claw tip and grip it hard enough it doesn't slide out.

I used 2" cylinders with 8" stroke. Your design might dictate something different. But I would suggest determining cylinder size early on in the build. I'd also suggest nothing larger than 2" to prevent overpowering your design.

I guess if you were concerned about the strength of your build you could decrease cylinder diameter size to minimize damage to the structure but I'd avoid that. I'd rather build the design with the strength to handle whatever cylinder you chose to maximize uses.

You cannot imagine what you are going to do with a Grapple. As the useage increases so does the stress on the Grapple. That's when you start seeing failures. My loader and Grapple will pick up loads that my 10,000lb tractor with 1,200lb rear ballast cannot control. Very commonly I have a rear tire in the air. Rather than constantly have to make a seat of the pants determination of whether my Grapple will handle the load I'd rather make that determination of the tractor's ability to handle it. Then I'm not spending all my time in the shop making repairs to the Grapple. I've had my Grapple for almost two years. I'd guess the hours of use at 300. I wouldn't venture a guess at how many tons of material it's handled.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #3  
Here's another photo that barely shows how my claws shut on the bucket. The tips of the claws close tightly on the edge of the bucket. In the photo you can see teeth pointing rearward above the bucket bottom. Those are tips that I added to the claws to increase bite force. Helps keep things from sliding out if gripped when the claws are mostly open. Again, I'm not educated in design. I do it by trial and error. In your case of using scarifier teeth I'd be concerned about lateral failure, the tooth twisting and bending sideways. Again, all determined by design and hydraulic cylinder size.


 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #4  
I would recommend the tip of the scarifiers line up where the arrow is in this picture. That would allow you to pick up a small branch or a 2x4.

1.jpg
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #5  
When I built mine (the same way you seem to be going about it) I tried to make the points just touch the lip of the bucket...after using it a few years I found it doesn't really matter...I would concentrate (with your wood mock up) to get the most out of your cylinder...It's hard to think of another thing that is as reasonably easy to make yourself that will serve you as much as your grapple will...good luck...

BTW, PM me if your interested in pictures of my fabrication process...
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #6  
One thing I did that has paid off...I made mine with the basic mount semi-perminate on the top of the bucket but I made it so I could independently remove both the grapple and the cylinder...I also made a "leaf compactor" that uses the same mount/cylinder...I remove the grapple and the cylinder when I just need the loader/bucket...
 
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  • Thread Starter
#7  
Richard, thanks for the interesting info and images. I guess a light duty grapple was not an appropriate description. What I actually meant was a simplified grapple that I can easily remove with a pin. I believe that two 3/4" x 2-1/2" claws, 6" apart and tied together with steel would be able to sustain the force of a 2" cylinder, laterally or otherwise. Don't you think?
You did a super job on yours. Unlike you, I have a modest need of material handling. So I think my concept would work for me. My bucket is a modified 40" old Dearborn bucket with a rounded back. I cut the back and replaced it with a 1/4" flat steel and It should be sturdy enough. My original bucket was a 66" monster way too impractical for my needs to get around.
 
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   / Grable Opinions Needed
  • Thread Starter
#8  
One thing I did that has paid off...I made mine with the basic mount semi-perminate on the top of the bucket but I made it so I could independently remove both the grapple and the cylinder...I also made a "leaf compactor" that uses the same mount/cylinder...I remove the grapple and the cylinder when I just need the loader/bucket...

Yes Slash Pine, I would be very grateful to see some pics of your machine. Images are great for stimulating ideas.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #9  
/pine:

Let's see the photos of the leaf compactor you made, please. Sounds interesting and useful to those who have lots of leaves to pick up and remove.

Arkaybee
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #10  
Richard, thanks for the interesting info and images. I guess a light duty grapple was not an appropriate description. What I actually meant was a simplified grapple that I can easily remove with a pin. I believe that two 3/4" x 2-1/2" claws, 6" apart and tied together with steel would be able to sustain the force of a 2" cylinder, laterally or otherwise. Don't you think?
You did a super job on yours. Unlike you, I have a modest need of material handling. So I think my concept would work for me. My bucket is a modified 40" old Dearborn bucket with a rounded back. I cut the back and replaced it with a 1/4" flat steel and It should be sturdy enough. My original bucket was a 66" monster way too impractical for my needs to get around.



As I said earlier,,, I'm definitely not an engineer. Again, whether your claws can stand the force of the 2" cylinder will be determined by the leverage of the hinge mechanism and cylinder mount points. I really struggled with that part on mine. The cylinder mount points are extremely critical to get the distance of motion desired. I tack welded mine and had to move it several times before I was satisfied. I wanted a wide open mouth, especially for grabbing piles of loose brush. So what I lost was gripping power when the claws are wide open, which increases as they close.

As for a removeable Grapple. I totally understand. Originally mine was removeable with 4 1/2" bolts. After I fought that for a short time I remodeled again and welded it to the bucket. I have a second bucket without Grapple so have a choice. But I rarely use the bare bucket. And when I do I always find myself wanting to pick up something that requires the Grapple. If you can get your design figured out you may find you never take it off.

I'll mention again, I thought I would only use my Grapple "modestly" too. Boy was I wrong. If you build it effectively it will become the most used part of your tractor. Makes a lazy man outta ya because you'll pick up small pieces of brush, litter, etc., rather than get off the tractor and do it by hand. Someone earlier mentioned being able to pick up a 2x4, mine will definitely pick up something that small. Keep us posted on your build, I'm anxious to see it.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#11  
I would recommend the tip of the scarifiers line up where the arrow is in this picture. That would allow you to pick up a small branch or a 2x4.

View attachment 320325

Xfaxman, thanks for the reply but I am not sure exactly sure what you mean by the "lining with the arrows". Are you saying that when fully retracted the the claws tips should be curling inside the bucket or under? For me it is one of the sticky points right now and I am just to digest the options.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #12  
Xfaxman, thanks for the reply but I am not sure exactly sure what you mean by the "lining with the arrows". Are you saying that when fully retracted the the claws tips should be curling inside the bucket or under? For me it is one of the sticky points right now and I am just to digest the options.

When the grapple cylinder is fully retracted, the claw is up, open all the way. When fully extended, the claw is down, clamping the load.

I mean the claw tips should be where the point of the arrow is in relation to the bucket teeth, so you can pick up small objects. The claw tips do not have to touch anything, movement will stop when the cylinder is fully extended. That is how you determine the cylinder mounting position.

Notice where the tips are on these:
tractor 086.jpg WRL-Bucket-Grapple-2.jpg
 
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  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks. That makes sense.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #14  
I don't like the cylinder to be the restricting part of the setup. I welded stops on mine to come against when fully open, just before the cylinders are fully retracted and my claw tips hit the bucket lip just before the cylinders are fully extended. This takes that slamming effect off the cylinders and allows me to exert pressure on the smallest object when trying clamp onto something.

Iused two 2"cylinders and mine opens and shuts very quickly and almost violently. With just one cylinder yours will move twice as fast. I didn't add restrictor fittings to my hoses because I wanted quick movement. But you may have to with just one cylinder to make it easier on the moving parts over time.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #15  
I don't like the cylinder to be the restricting part of the setup. I welded stops on mine to come against when fully open, just before the cylinders are fully retracted and my claw tips hit the bucket lip just before the cylinders are fully extended. This takes that slamming effect off the cylinders and allows me to exert pressure on the smallest object when trying clamp onto something.

Why? The cylinder physically can handle the pressure. That is why they make "stroke stoppers"
cylinderlimiter.png

I agree with being able to pick up small objects, but in this project the claw tips will be between the bucket teeth and not touching anything when fully extended.

I used two 2"cylinders and mine opens and shuts very quickly and almost violently. With just one cylinder yours will move twice as fast. I didn't add restrictor fittings to my hoses because I wanted quick movement. But you may have to with just one cylinder to make it easier on the moving parts over time.

It may not be too fast , since he is using a 7 gpm PTO pump.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #16  
Why? The cylinder physically can handle the pressure. That is why they make "stroke stoppers"
View attachment 320791

I agree with being able to pick up small objects, but in this project the claw tips will be between the bucket teeth and not touching anything when fully extended.



It may not be too fast , since he is using a 7 gpm PTO pump.

I have no technically qualified answer as to why. I just think there is no need to put that function on the cylinder when design can do it. I guess if the cylinder can handle it without affect then you are relieving the mechanism hinge points from that stress. In my design the cylinder hinge pins and claw hinge pins are constantly against pressure when fully open and fully closed. Again, I have no technical answer as to which would be better when building.

I agree with you about the speed using a 7 gpm pump. May even find himself waiting on the closure just a little.
 
   / Grable Opinions Needed #17  
I have no technically qualified answer as to why. I just think there is no need to put that function on the cylinder when design can do it. I guess if the cylinder can handle it without affect then you are relieving the mechanism hinge points from that stress. In my design the cylinder hinge pins and claw hinge pins are constantly against pressure when fully open and fully closed. Again, I have no technical answer as to which would be better when building.

I agree with you about the speed using a 7 gpm pump. May even find himself waiting on the closure just a little.

Right, that is the key issue in this build of a "light duty grapple". Your build is "heavy duty" and you designed it to handle that stress. :thumbsup:
 

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