Grade of steel used for implements?

[Gus Osmium]

How is this plough used? Here is a pic of the plough in use.
It is pretty versatile, the ploughs can be set to face/turn soil inwards or outwards with a range of spacing widths between. Setting the frame with a single plough on the very edge of the frame facing/turning outwards (one side only) is a really efficient way to dig a contour drain across the slope with the upturned sod forming a mound below the spoon drain, and you can even do this closely along a fence line.
I have heavy subsoils and need to form raised beds for my orchard rows for improved drainage, but the frame is a bit too narrow for that so I want to widen it by 250mm (10") at each end. This will enable me to form up wider beds more effectively and with the minimum number of passes. One pass down the midrow with both ploughs set to turn soil from my rear wheel track to the outside (on each side). Importantly for my heavier soils the wider frame will allow me to then re-set the width so tips of each plough are set on the outside width of my rear wheel track (still facing/turning soil outwards) so I can make a second pass directly down the same midrow to turn the soil and the same already turned sods outwards again without having to drive directly over the already turned sod or the planting bed. The result being an elevated, un-compacted planting bed and lowered wheel tracks in my midrow for improved drainage, onto which I can broadcast the same tall fescues and phalaris grasses (both of which tolerate heavy soils and wet feet), lucerne and sub clovers that collectively make up my pasture.
The plough is made for bed forming for row crops in cultivated soils as shown in the picture below, which I assume is why there is no cutting wheel in front of each plough like you find on many moldboard ploughs - but that is not what I use it for.
Thanks, Gus

 

[Sodo]

If you extend that you could add a diagonal brace from the 3-pt attach corner to the rear corner. Those plough shares will twist pretty hard on that rectangular frame.

 

[Djames55]

What do you call that implement? I would like to have one like it... Where did you buy it?

 

[Gus Osmium]

Sodo,
Now that you've put it in writing is is so obvious. I feel like a clown. Thank you.
DJ,
it's sold as a "Ditcher Plough", manufactured by Alpler in Turkey. I sent an enquiry to them directly but have not had any reply. The model I have is SKP16, sold locally as being 2,000mm wide, the local distributor assured me that this was the width of the frame but it's not. Distributor is full of it, the frame width is only 1,600mm
See: Ditcher Plough

 

[Sodo]

Gus a different look is sometimes all it takes. I extended your ditcher appx 10" with photoshop. I like projects.

If you want to hide your 10" extensions ( grind off the welds ) maybe cut the 110mm angle at 45 degrees to make a much longer weld. Or if git'er done then just put 1/4" doublers over the welds on the inside of the angles. I drew the yellow lines both ways. The fishplate style (a diamond shaped doubler) has its merits too. Diagonal welds can confuse cracks, they don't know where to start. Theres more to it than that but that's the simplest I can explain it.

For the red links I'd make SQ tube links, like 2 x 2 x 3/16", with one pretty big bolt on each end. You can tab them onto the structure. The twisting force is the SAME whether it's original or 10" extension. The red links only need to make up for the defficiency of the extended rectangular frame.

I'd certainly test it carefully (in increments of depth/speed/soil hardness etc) and watch it like a hawk how it flexes. And brace it up accordingly if it seems to have problems. You could send this pic to the MFR, and ask for their thoughts. They may have already thought of this, and upon seeing your interest and commitment to the wider size may offer assistance.

Engineers aren't going to like your plan, they have to consider the forces on your 3-point if it hits a rock on one side while the other side is in soft soil. Maybe you should too but I understand getting your farming done has its benefits too.

 

[Gus Osmium]

Sodo,
Wow. That is so generous of you.
Thank you so much.
The last time I used photoshop was version 2 back in the Quark Express vs Pagemaker DTP era before the Adobe ascendency, when 32MB of RAM was high end... but by the time it got to v5 it had got away from me completely and I'd struggle to even open the application now.
I'm tied up today but will post the close up pics of the frame tomorrow.
Thanks, Gus

 

[Gus Osmium]

Here's the close up pics of the frame

Thanks,
Gus

 

[Sodo]

Gus that is a stout frame.

Maybe it can be done entirely bolt-on. Build a square unit of similar construction that bolts onto the end of that frame, moving your plowshares 10 inches outboard. And picks up some of the bolt holes below too. And then add the red links as I drew earlier. Then you don't have to cut into that new unit just drill some holes.

 

[Gus Osmium]

Yes, I am pretty happy with the robust construction. The limitation is that there are no shear bolts, which may be fine for frequently cultivated soil but a bit of risk for my use. My thinking, and the only option I can spot is to replace these two horizontal bolts with shear bolts.

Thanks, Gus

 

[ksbrdmkr]

I think Sodo has the right idea, looks like you might be able to bolt into at least four of the existing holes with a welded up assembly. Looks like a neat tool