Grader/Scrape Blade Vs Box Blade.

[DMW]

There isn't a lot of room to work with. Farmers can get pretty irate when you start affecting field drainage. Putting a ditch on the right side will become a trap for getting cars stuck in. Think swale with a large crown on the driveway. A rear blade is not going to give you enough weight to get through the tree roots. I would use the box blade, tilted slightly to the side with the 3pt adjustment. Do not be too aggressive , as after each pass the wheels going lower on one side will increase the angle. Don't drive over any exposed tree roots, they have a habit of coming up underneath the SCUTs and damaging things. Keep an ax handy to deal with them.

Do the same for the left side, always better to pull downhill. Remember you only want to engage the lowered part of the blade, not the entire width. Do not remove too much in each pass, 1/4-1/2 inch will maintain an even level. It will easily fill up the BB on a pass. Probably end up doing 10-20 passes. Use the spoil to create a berm along your property. It only has to be slightly higher than the roadway. Your driveway may require a small culvert, an 8" may do depending on water flow. Keep the entrance of the driveway higher than the roadway. I have no idea how much flow you have, so washouts on the roadway are a possibility. Your going to be sending a lot of water down the road, so be mindful of where it will and up.
A bigger tractor would make short work of it, but that's not the point, is it

 

[HoneyBadger1]

I will take better pics. The feild is shedding water onto me. A ditch will not effect the feild drainage. It will take the water as it enters my property and will direct it around my house and down to the pond like it does now. I'm just want it to down beside my house as apposed to across the front lawn.

 

[HoneyBadger1]

Thanks for the info! So, if I am interpreting things correctly it appears that majority feels RB is the way to go. Caveat being it can not be an entry level, box store style. Those entry level one would have me in a similar boat to the BB I currently use. Correct

 

[fried1765]

Thanks for the info! So, if I am interpreting things correctly it appears that majority feels RB is the way to go. Caveat being it can not be an entry level, box store style. Those entry level one would have me in a similar boat to the BB I currently use. Correct

CORRECT!

 

[oosik]

Let me give you my example. After spring rains my mile long gravel driveway hardens exactly like concrete. That's because the surface is a combo of sand, gravel, silt & volcanic ash( Mt St Helens, 1980 ). I HAD a Land Pride RB3596 rear blade. 96" by 565 pounds. It was fantastic for snow removal. It was just WAY to light when the driveway hardened up in the summer. I sold it - got a Rhino 950. The Rhino - 96" by 1100 pounds. Now, I'm careful to not plow it all into the ditches.

With most all ground contact implements - weight is your friend. Plus, consider what type of "ground" you will be grading. In my case, I need all the weight I can get to penetrate and do summer maintenance. Summer maintenance = cleaning the ditches and bringing the gravel back up to the driving surface, crowning, general grading. I only do these things AS NEEDED. If the surface is OK - leave it alone. For potholes, I use my roll-over-box blade. It's got scarifiers - necessary for really fixing potholes.

If you have one of those "super gravel" driveways. The top 6" or so being screened gravel or the like - you could get the job done with a lighter rear blade.

When I went from the Land Pride to the Rhino -- it was a jump from Class 1 to Class 2 implement. The Class2 is almost 3X the price. My Rhino is 138 pound per foot of width.

 

[beowulf]

Both. Have both and if they were suddenly stolen, I would buy both again. Some overlap, but each has distinct uses and advantages depending on the project. When I only had a box blade I struggled to maintain our 850' driveway - could not really make the crown and toss material up from the sides. With a blade and the ability to set the angle it is very much easier. I don't recall but I don't think the blade was that expensive.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Need to keep in mind that the OP has a 24hp tractor weighing about 2500lbs with the loader. The heavy implements that have been mentioned through this thread simply will not be part of "this equation".

 

[ededic]

Agreed on the tractor weight. Just want to be sure the OP looks at the RB with Angle & Tilt Adjustment needed for ditching. Base RB typically don’t have this option. May of these RB are heavier due to the extra mechanical and strength required.

 

[fried1765]

Agreed on the tractor weight. Just want to be sure the OP looks at the RB with Angle & Tilt Adjustment needed for ditching. Base RB typically don’t have this option. May of these RB are heavier due to the extra mechanical and strength required.

As I have suggested earlier in this thread, the Everything Attachments "Deluxe Scrape Blade" meets ALL of the above mentioned adjustment requirements for the OP's SCUT.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As I have suggested earlier in this thread, the Everything Attachments "Deluxe Scrape Blade" meets ALL of the above mentioned adjustment requirements for the OP's SCUT.

I agree. While no it is not as quick and easy as with heavier equipment, it can be done with his box blade and the recommended rear blade. :thumbsup: