Grader/Scrape Blade Vs Box Blade.

[DMW]

Thanks for the info! So, if I am interpreting things correctly it appears that majority feels RB is the way to go. Caveat being it can not be an entry level, box store style. Those entry level one would have me in a similar boat to the BB I currently use. Correct

HB, try using the box blade you already have, rather than purchasing a new rear blade. It may be able to do the job.

The EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade may not be suitable for your tractor due to ground clearance, check with the manufacturer.

 

[fried1765]

HB, try using the box blade you already have, rather than purchasing a new rear blade. It may be able to do the job.

The EA 6 Way Deluxe Scrape Blade may not be suitable for your tractor due to ground clearance, check with the manufacturer.

"due to ground clearance" ????

 

[MtnViewRanch]

"due to ground clearance" ????

He thinks that he may not be able to raise the blade more than a few inches off the ground because his tractor is small.

 

[gatornapper]

I may have missed it, but I have been maintaining my 1/2 mile long gravel road for 36 years, and there is no tool on earth made that's better for maintaining a gravel road.....don't think anyone here mentioned it.....beats every tool mentioned - other than maybe a Harley Rake.....I've used everything in this thread and nothing works like it......

GS25 Series Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

GN

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. Been maintaining it since the day I had it built in '82. I use three implements - Rhino 950, rear blade, 96", 1100 pounds - - Land Pride GS 2584, LPGS, 84", 796 pounds - - Bush Hog, ROBB, 72", 720 pounds.

I will use the rear blade about 99% of the time. It's not an easy implement to learn but is, by far, the most universal. Grades, cleans the ditches and returns gravel to the driving surface, maintains the crown, plows the snow & moves material, to a limited extent. It will not scarify and repair potholes.

I will use the ROBB or LPGS to repair potholes( both have scarifiers). The ROBB( roll over box blade) is the implement to move material from here to there. If I put my 480# square of concrete on the LPGS - then its heavy enough @ 1275 pounds to smooth any ripples I might get.

The ROBB will not clear snow, will not maintain crown with this implement, will not clear/clean ditches. Too light to do any meaningful grading on the driveway.

If you have a "wonder gravel" driveway - the LPGS is the easy implement to use. It can be heavy enough to smooth ripples and with scarifiers can begin the repair of potholes. However - it will not plow snow, WILL NOT maintain a crown on the driveway, will not move any material, will not clean/clear the ditches.

BTW - the surface 4" of my driveway hardens like concrete after the spring rains. It's a combination of gravel, sand, silt and volcanic ash( Mt St Helens, 1980). I had a Land Pride RB3596, rear blade, 96", 565 pounds. Excellent for snow plowing - just a great light show after the driveway dries and hardens. Drag it down the driveway in the early evening - better than a fist full of sparklers on the 4th of July. Sold it - got the Rhino.

 

[shooterdon]

HB,
By now you should be adaquately confused. Bear in mind the weight and HP of your tractor when you decide what you will do. Also the type of ground you are working and just how å*µood you need to grade it.

I am a new owner as well and empathize with you. My machine is also small. I was lucky and got a rake with my machine and bought a light duty rear blade used for $100. I have able to improve my gravel drive but it is not perfect. I have spent 15 hours working on it and I think using those two attachments I will do an adaquate job with more seat time. I may add gage wheels but not sure yet.

Good luck

 

[RoyKing]

Lots of opinions here is mine. same problem, clay and neighbors land drained into mine. So I wanted a long ditch to take all the run off which last for days past the house down to the catch pond. Lots roots from lots of trees. So first tool was an auction sod buster, took grinder and put edge on the front above the foot like expensive ones had. Ran it back and forth till I had the sod and roots cut. Then took box scraper with tines all the way down and forward tilt so it would not dig, and many passes it collected all roots and broke up the sod. Now you probably don't have draft control which really makes BB more useful, that keeps the BB down as tractors moves up and down. So use BB with as much tilt as you can only put the tines in on the lower half, set the toplink for mild dig angle. If don't set the angle to high it will dig and roll the dirt out on the high side. Without draft you will be sitting sideways watching the BB, close you drop rate valve so the BB doesn't immediately dig when you lower it. Your hand will be constantly working BB depth, you only going to move 3-4 inches at a time. It will take awhile. All your ditch material will be stacked BB it out flat enough to mower over when grass comes back.