grading drive way

[skytime24]

I'm getting my Ls g 3038 Wednesday and the dealewr only has the 5 ft box blade, was looking for 6ft to cover tires anyways he has a 6 ft rear scraper blade would that work for grading a gravel road

 

[skytime24]

It's really bumpy I need to flatten it out and spread new gravel

 

[jenkinsph]

I would not settle for what the dealer has in stock. Make sure your money is applied towards your best interests. Which tool to buy depends on your needs, what else are you planning to do with the tractor? That would help us to determine which tools would have priority.

 

[Licklog]

I have used both with good results, just takes practice. The blade I will normally use in the reverse position at different angles to smooth the road while with the box blade I will tilt the unit so that the front cutting board is about an inch above the ground and the rear board is dragging. I use the box blade far more now because I also do some neighbors drives and they, at times, require some ripping work with the scarifiers and my driveway is steep so I will drag some gravel up the road as it washes. I would not recommend any size box blade that does not cover your tire marks. It is worth waiting for him to get a wider unit or shop at a Tractor Supply or Coop. It you do go with a blade you might want to consider one with offset capability which will allow you a lot more flexibility to drag gravel from the edges especially if you have ditches.

Licklog

 

[HillStreet]

Tilt and angle the blade so you slightly crown the center. Work one side and grade 2/3 the width of the driveway, then do the other side to meet in the middle. This grading action will separate the fines from the aggregate, so you should compact it after grading.

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. I have, for maintenance, a roll over box blade, a back blade and a grading scraper. By FAR, the best of the three is the grading scraper. Each of the three can be used, however, the GS gives the best results and does not require years of experience.

 

[GGB]

I have a mile long gravel driveway. I have, for maintenance, a roll over box blade, a back blade and a grading scraper. By FAR, the best of the three is the grading scraper. Each of the three can be used, however, the GS gives the best results and does not require years of experience.

This!

 

[skytime24]

OK thanks guys, other than grading the road I'm not sure what else I'd use them for in the future.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Both of those implements are TOO SMALL for your tractor. :thumbdown: You need a 6 foot box blade, and for road maintenance a 6' Land Plane Grading Scraper (LPGS)(highly recommended) :thumbsup: A rear blade, needs to be a 7 footer so that when it is angled it will cover your tracks. Get the heaviest implements that you can afford, especially when it comes to grading.

 

[econometrics]

I'll throw my hat in the ring for a land plane. Those things really are the best for most of your driveway grading jobs. I have a rear blade and a box blade... they work pretty good. But a land plane is definitely on my list of things to buy ASAP.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I'll throw my hat in the ring for a land plane. Those things really are the best for most of your driveway grading jobs. I have a rear blade and a box blade... they work pretty good. But a land plane is definitely on my list of things to buy ASAP.

I have 4 implements that I use to maintain 2 & 3/8 miles of roads and fence lines. Roll over box blade, rear blade, land scape rake and land plane grading scraper. I use the (LPGS) by far more than any of the other implements to maintain the drive.

 

[econometrics]

I have 4 implements that I use to maintain 2 & 3/8 miles of roads and fence lines. Roll over box blade, rear blade, land scape rake and land plane grading scraper. I use the (LPGS) by far more than any of the other implements to maintain the drive.

I would literally be calling my dealer to order one right now if I was not about to leave to go pick up my Wallenstein BX62S at the shipping terminal in a few minutes! :laughing:

My wallet needs some R&R, haha!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I would literally be calling my dealer to order one right now if I was not about to leave to go pick up my Wallenstein BX62S at the shipping terminal in a few minutes! :laughing:

My wallet needs some R&R, haha!

Recoup and replenish and then go at it again. :thumbsup: If I have $$$$ in the bank, then something is wrong. :laughing:

 

[econometrics]

Recoup and replenish and then go at it again. :thumbsup: If I have $$$$ in the bank, then something is wrong. :laughing:

:laughing: I knocked out new pallet forks and a new 3PT chipper this month. I suppose I can wait until Friday to buy a land plane. "But honey, I bought those LAST month!"

Really, though... I have read / researched / watched enough on land planes to know they are the real deal and a must have for our 1/3 mile driveway.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

:laughing: I knocked out new pallet forks and a new 3PT chipper this month. I suppose I can wait until Friday to buy a land plane. "But honey, I bought those LAST month!"

Really, though... I have read / researched / watched enough on land planes to know they are the real deal and a must have for our 1/3 mile driveway.

When you get the LPGS, get one that weighs at a minimum of 150lbs per foot of width, and more is better. My 7 footer is 200lbs per foot and my 5 footer is 160lbs per foot. Better to have it heavy and work great vs wider and lighter and just work well. They all seem to work good, but the heavier the better IMO.

 

[econometrics]

When you get the LPGS, get one that weighs at a minimum of 150lbs per foot of width, and more is better. My 7 footer is 200lbs per foot and my 5 footer is 160lbs per foot. Better to have it heavy and work great vs wider and lighter and just work well. They all seem to work good, but the heavier the better IMO.

That's really why I haven't bought one yet. I want the Frontier LP1207. It's about $1K more than the smaller, lighter 1172. And about 500 pounds heavier.

 

[bcp]

If the lighter one is strong enough, just add a barrel of water or some weights to it.

At the same weight per foot, a wider one will cut bumps better due to more total weight being concentrated on the portion of the blade cutting the bump.

Bruce

 

[DKCDKC]

I'd love a land plane and other things to maintain my mile gravel drive. But I'm retired and a tightwad. I have a used box blade for routine use, a used blade and a used landscape rake for moving gravel to the center and touch-up stuff. And it works. I have a steep, curvy drive and yet rarely have to put gravel on any of it. Yet it is smooth enough for small or sporty cars to use easily.

If I happen across a used land plane cheap, I might consider it. But since what I have works, I don't see a lot of point in putting out a lot more for perhaps an incremental improvement. I do recommend to all that they look first at used implements whereever possible. It's hard to damage things like box blades. And, if they're bent or something, they're not hard to fix.

 

[troutsqueezer]

If it's a choice between grader and BB, I'd go for the BB in a heartbeat. I have both and while the grader is handy to move gravel from the side to the center it is not as versatile as the BB. I don't like having to go back and flatten out the ridge of gravel the grader blade leaves behind. I don't like going back and fetching the rocks it has kicked to the middle of the road either. At least with the BB I can stop and scoop all the collected rocks in one swoop. The grader will ditch your road much easier so that is something to consider.

 

[Big Jon]

Skytime... I would listen to Hill street, I grew up around pitched travel roads around our weekend get away property and they always had a crown. A new company bought they area and graded flat and the roads immediately starting rutting and roads have been crap ever since.