Grading with a subcompact to take out a slope

[HEC]

If not already I would suggest getting your rear tires loaded for traction and counterbalance for front end loader work and be very careful on slopes especially . I too would suggest the r4 tires . I also like the idea of a subsoiler if tires are loaded and the tooth bar on the bucket . .

 

[dmbtree82]

I'd like to get a tooth bar and plan on it. I think the box blade will be the first tool I get for it either way since I can use it as ballast for the loader as well. I can get a Mahindra blade at a good price locally, but was having trouble finding specs on it. I did manage to find out it weighs 300lbs for the 4' blade and has 3 scrapers. Anyone know how the Mahindra compares to the frontier in quality?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

That's a really nice tooth bar.:thumbsup:

Any reason why the teeth are not turned around?

I presume you mean turned over 180 degrees? I kept the flat side on the bottom and placed so they are the same as the bottom of the FEL bucket. That way I can still use to back blade smoothly w/0 taking the tooth bar off. Surprised you did not ask why the two tabs sticking up. They are for pining on an attachment for a class 3 trailer hitch w/o removing the TB. I have one I made that clamps on the bucket when the TB is off. It has been on since I made it a year ago. The advantage of being a welder and having the equipment.

Ron

 

[dragoneggs]

The Piranha tooth bar has been a god send for me. No need for a BB but of course if money no object. I like having the FEL with PTB and BH on back for serious dirt work. These SCUTS can dig!!! I have been terracing my steep slope with my BX and the only issue is safety. Be careful and go real slow!

 

[ovrszd]

I presume you mean turned over 180 degrees? I kept the flat side on the bottom and placed so they are the same as the bottom of the FEL bucket. That way I can still use to back blade smoothly w/0 taking the tooth bar off.
Ron

Also gives you the ability to cut grade going forward. Bobcat buckets are designed that way and work very well.

 

[dmbtree82]

I was thinking about wheel weights over loading the tires.

 

[BukitCase]

If the area you're gonna level is actually 100' x 100', and you're going to actually level that area without making half of it "cut" and the other half "fill", (IOW, cut down the entire 100 x 100 and push the spoils out of the way) then you will be moving approximately 1,111 cubic YARDS of material.

How much time were you planning to spend on this?

Just for reference, I have an older Case backhoe, and a power down 3 point hitch add-on, with a Gannon 7 foot box scraper with hydraulic rippers - I did a "push-out" that's about 180 feet square about 8 years ago, did the math and I moved roughly 2400 yds of dirt in 4 12-hour days.

Difference is, my BB weighs almost as much as your tractor, and the tractor minus hoe weighs in at roughly 6000 pounds - I would lower the rippers, make a few side-hill passes, then start at the top, drive the bucket in and roll it out, level it and into float mode, then drop the BB and move a full bucket and full BB to the lower side, dump the bucket then pop the BB up as I went over the edge, drive back up to the top and repeat. Between the bucket and the BB, I was moving about 2 yards of material per pass.

I'll repeat the advice to keep your bucket as low as possible - and by the time you're done with this project I guarantee you'll know a LOT more about your gear than you do now.

Not trying to dissuade you, just a bit of perspective - as has already been said, there's no question that you can do this, only a question of how long it'll take... Steve

 

[RDrancher]

If the area you're gonna level is actually 100' x 100', and you're going to actually level that area without making half of it "cut" and the other half "fill", (IOW, cut down the entire 100 x 100 and push the spoils out of the way) then you will be moving approximately 1,111 cubic YARDS of material.

How much time were you planning to spend on this?

Just for reference, I have an older Case backhoe, and a power down 3 point hitch add-on, with a Gannon 7 foot box scraper with hydraulic rippers - I did a "push-out" that's about 180 feet square about 8 years ago, did the math and I moved roughly 2400 yds of dirt in 4 12-hour days.

Difference is, my BB weighs almost as much as your tractor, and the tractor minus hoe weighs in at roughly 6000 pounds - I would lower the rippers, make a few side-hill passes, then start at the top, drive the bucket in and roll it out, level it and into float mode, then drop the BB and move a full bucket and full BB to the lower side, dump the bucket then pop the BB up as I went over the edge, drive back up to the top and repeat. Between the bucket and the BB, I was moving about 2 yards of material per pass.

I'll repeat the advice to keep your bucket as low as possible - and by the time you're done with this project I guarantee you'll know a LOT more about your gear than you do now.

Not trying to dissuade you, just a bit of perspective - as has already been said, there's no question that you can do this, only a question of how long it'll take... Steve

Yes, this is good advice. If you've ever looked at my photo thread or seen any skiploader videos, you'll see the bucket up in the air when running the box blade. It helps to increase fore-aft and side-to-side "feel", but I don't suggest that anyone else do it. It's a learned skill, just like running a box blade. What you won't see is my bucket up high with a bucket load of material....ever.

 

[ericb2400]

Silly question about tires. Most people talk about turf, r1, or r4s. What about the Tera tires
https://www.google.com/search?q=goo...2Fforum%2Fshowthread.php%3Ft%3D963075;400;300
That's what u have on my B2400 and they seem to do well all around.

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[ovrszd]

I was thinking about wheel weights over loading the tires.

I added 1570lbs with loading tires at a cost of $200.

Weights are generally $1 per pound. So same weight would have cost me $1570.

No brainer to me.