Buggs67
Veteran Member
Still think with that much work to do you may want to go with a CUT.
Grading with a subcompact to take out a slope
- Thread starter dmbtree82
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TomSeller
Super Member
Nice work. !! Curious if you had to take out a permit, assuming that is a stream through the culvert?
TomSeller
Super Member
Shhhhhhh...
I thought of that but the pictures can't be unseen once they are posted. That's why I list my location as Timbuktu.
TomSeller
Super Member
nice work on that slope, that is not easy. Looks good. Useful for a submarine lookout?
Buggs,
If it turns out to be too much I'll have a friend with a skidsteer and mini excavator come over and pay him a few bucks for machine time. Since I'm getting the tractor my thought is I should try to work it a little bit at least. I might head out today and get a 4' Mahindra BB and see what they have in tooth bars while I'm there. I started another thread on the implements side to get input about the Mahindra vs Frontier BB.
Bukit,
I'm over estimating the size of the area for sure and only the driveway would be time critical.
If it turns out to be too much I'll have a friend with a skidsteer and mini excavator come over and pay him a few bucks for machine time. Since I'm getting the tractor my thought is I should try to work it a little bit at least. I might head out today and get a 4' Mahindra BB and see what they have in tooth bars while I'm there. I started another thread on the implements side to get input about the Mahindra vs Frontier BB.
Bukit,
I'm over estimating the size of the area for sure and only the driveway would be time critical.
SpringHollow
Elite Member
I personally would not recommend this work with your tractor if you are going to have to bring in equipment to do a foundation or basement. You will spend LOTS of time, fuel, and wear and tear on your tractor when they can do the work at minimal extra cost. If that is the case, I would recommend another project that you would enjoy such as perhaps leveling and prepping a garden area nearby or help a neighbor with a project. Leveling a small area would not be bad for practice if you have no other work to do.
I know, it is sacrilege recommending something that minimizes seat time.
Ken
I know, it is sacrilege recommending something that minimizes seat time.
Ken
DB Pilot
Gold Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2013
- Messages
- 337
- Location
- SW, New York
- Tractor
- Case Farmall 65A, L3800 Kubota, BX2200 Kubota
Definitely go for the R4's. I've had ag tires on my BX2200 from day one (bought in 2001) never regretted it and has done no damage to my lawn. Also they have gotten me out of trouble more than once. I hate to get stuck near the road :ashamed: as someone will surely stop with much unneeded advice as to how to get unstuck. :thumbdown:
I like my potato digger for starting ditches. A few passes and you have a nice ditch and doing this on each side of the roadway defines your work area nicely. It also sets the depth, loosens the nearby soil and lets the Boxblade really start doing work. I like Egon's advice and now I've learned some new tricks. Good Luck :tractor:
I hate to get stuck near the road :ashamed: as someone will surely stop with much unneeded advice as to how to get unstuck. :thumbdown: I like my potato digger for starting ditches. A few passes and you have a nice ditch and doing this on each side of the roadway defines your work area nicely. It also sets the depth, loosens the nearby soil and lets the Boxblade really start doing work. I like Egon's advice and now I've learned some new tricks. Good Luck :tractor:
LostInTheWoods
Platinum Member
Tire choice is always a hot topic for debate. I have the R4's and they have been a good all-around choice for my SCUT, but I do not use it as my primary grass cutter. My tractor is in the woods clearing/maintaining trails and rotary cutting small fields and maintaining a very long gravel driveway primarily, with the occasional soil moving. In my soil, the R4 tires will mar the surface of the soil a bit if the ground is even a little damp. And since there a two subsurface sprins/seeps in the area I mow, that's a problem for me almost year-round.
I'm a big fan of the box blade as an item you can get a lot of bang-for-the-buck, but some people hate box blades. Problem is, its hard to know how you feel about it unless you spend some time with one. For me, it has been great at driveway maintainance and good at moving and breaking soil. It does OK at moving snow (though I like the FEL more for that), and does a great job of breaking up packed sleet/ice from the driveway. A box blade sized for your machine will probably come with 4 adjustable shanks. Remember, you don't have to engage all 4 at the same time. Use only one or two if you initially have trouble breaking soil. We use the box blade to break soil for a garden without a rototiller, and it does a pretty good job. Not as good and pretty as a tilled garden, but the veggies don't seem to mind. And I can tell you from experience, you can only break up roots to a certain size. Your machine is too light to move mountains, even if it has a high power-to-weight ratio. If your shanks engage roots too large, your light tractor will just spin its tires.
I'm a big fan of the box blade as an item you can get a lot of bang-for-the-buck, but some people hate box blades. Problem is, its hard to know how you feel about it unless you spend some time with one. For me, it has been great at driveway maintainance and good at moving and breaking soil. It does OK at moving snow (though I like the FEL more for that), and does a great job of breaking up packed sleet/ice from the driveway. A box blade sized for your machine will probably come with 4 adjustable shanks. Remember, you don't have to engage all 4 at the same time. Use only one or two if you initially have trouble breaking soil. We use the box blade to break soil for a garden without a rototiller, and it does a pretty good job. Not as good and pretty as a tilled garden, but the veggies don't seem to mind. And I can tell you from experience, you can only break up roots to a certain size. Your machine is too light to move mountains, even if it has a high power-to-weight ratio. If your shanks engage roots too large, your light tractor will just spin its tires.
I got a box blade and am going to start on a driveway this weekend. I'll see how that goes and then take it from there on how to handle leveling the other area. I did a quick test once the got the BB hooked up and it seems like I should be able to rip and scoop pretty easily for the driveway. I know rocks may throw a kink in that plan, but am hoping for nothing large.
My plan is to go about 8" down; pick up a roll of usfabric us200 geotextile to roll out, and then cover over with 8" of modified (compactable) stone. I spoke with the guy at usfabric and that was they way they said to go. With the fabric the larger stone is not necessary. Anyone think that is crazy?
My plan is to go about 8" down; pick up a roll of usfabric us200 geotextile to roll out, and then cover over with 8" of modified (compactable) stone. I spoke with the guy at usfabric and that was they way they said to go. With the fabric the larger stone is not necessary. Anyone think that is crazy?