Grapple Design

[dtd24]

Willl,
The bottom side of the loader support had a nice bracket that looked like it was for hydraulic lines so I choose to run them there. Once I get the grapple on I will see how I like where I placed the quick connects.

 

[Willl]

No, I'm talking about your placement of the QD's on the front grill brush guard.

 

[dtd24]

Oh, yeah. Still not sure I'm happy with them there. I am looking at it some more. I have some slack to move them a bit if req'd.

 

[3RRL]

Oh, yeah. Still not sure I'm happy with them there. I am looking at it some more. I have some slack to move them a bit if req'd.

Looking good dtd, but I have the same concern as Will does.
Your grill guard is stationary so you would need all kinds of slack for when they are connected in case you lift the fel way up. Then you need to have additional slack on top of that for full dump and curl of the bucket. That could get hairy.

Looks to me your right fel arm is naked and you can run the hoses from your diverter valve up that arm with enough slack for complete raise of the fel arms, but it will be a lot less slack running up the stationary fel bracket to the moving arms at that point. Then down that arm over to the middle of your fel connecting support bar...that's where I'd put the QD's. Then from there up to your grapple set up with enough hose slack for full dump and curl. With the QD's there, on that support bar, you can take off the bucket, grapple, whatever and run other hydraulic equipment up front.





Notice I do not have my QD's there, but I wish I did for when I take my bucket off. At the time I did mine, I thought I would only take the grapples off the bucket, so I will have to change it too.

 

[dtd24]

Ok, I will look at the quick connects alittle closer for sure. Tonight I took advice from KennyD (Thank you Ken) and I installed a relay so my aux fuse panel is only live when the ignition is on. Now my grapple switch won't keep me thinking at night if I turned it off or not!

Can't wait to get the steel!!!!

 

[kennyd]

Ok, I will look at the quick connects alittle closer for sure. Tonight I took advice from KennyD (Thank you Ken) and I installed a relay so my aux fuse panel is only live when the ignition is on. Now my grapple switch won't keep me thinking at night if I turned it off or not!

Can't wait to get the steel!!!!

Your welcome, glad to help

 

[SkunkWerX]

Ok, I will look at the quick connects alittle closer for sure. Tonight I took advice from KennyD (Thank you Ken) and I installed a relay so my aux fuse panel is only live when the ignition is on. Now my grapple switch won't keep me thinking at night if I turned it off or not!

Can't wait to get the steel!!!!

Good, now I can sleep!
I've been waking in the middle of the night, wondering.....
"Did dtd24 move his grapple switch to the OFF position?"

OK, so now we want to see the steel part of this project take shape, you are on the home stretch.
Be sure to post some pics! and....good luck!

 

[dtd24]

Well I looked at the current spot where I have installed the quick connections. I see what you guys are saying. I will have to re-route them. I think what I will do is take off the lines and use them for the tractor to grapple cylinder hoses. That way I will only lose the two ends. I will make new hoses to go from the diverter to the bucket by way of the FEL arm that moves.

Thanks guys!!!

 

[SkunkWerX]

Sounds like a good alternate use, rather than be left with a spare purchased hose.

I found that you need a little slack to account for the "hinge" where the FEL supports pivot at the tractor frame mount (See your existing hoses), as well as, providing for the slack needed for the bucket full-dump operation.

-FEL Raised with Bucket fully-dumped was my MAX length needed.
-FEL Lowered, with bucket level on ground is what I called "Normal" position.
-FEL Lowered, with Bucket fully curled (like carrying mode) was the MIN length needed.

Once I examined each condition, I could account for QD positions, length, hose routing, and make sure there weren't any pinch points, which would most likely be at/near your bucket curl cylinder(s).

Hope this helps more than confuses.

Fell free to Email me if you need pics or further explanation.

Your doing well, sounds like you are accounting for all the variables along the way.

 

[dtd24]

What I have been doing to size up the hoses is take a piece of 12ga or 14ga electrical wire scrap and route it like I want the hydraulic line to run. I bring the wire right to Parker Hydraulics and they make it perfect. I will get this thing run nice nice!