Grapple Hydralics

[IslandTractor]

Well...that's prolly cause I have no idear what I'm talking about. ......
So, what would they have done with a $540 valve (I guess s&h is part of that) from WRLong...that had to do with plumbing up that grapple. They definately need a cylindar to open and close the grapple, right?

Two points. First was that my statement that I was confused related to the post by Hill, not your post. I think Hill thought I had the electric over hydraulic set up which is a true third function but I actually have the "selector valve kit" which is generally referred to on TBN as a diverter valve.

Second: The WRLong "selector" valve is exactly what I have on my current tractor. It is a diverter type set up that will permit the grapple to be operated through the dedicated FEL hydraulics. If you get that valve and switch installed you will only need to install matching hydraulic quick couplers to the ends of the short hydraulic lines that come from the grapple to the tractor. I've posted a photo of my tractor showing the way these are mounted on the torque tube of the loader (the cross piece in front of the loader just behind the attachment plate.) I know full well from my own learning experience that this terminology can be confusing but it is actually quite simple once you see it.

Bottom line: If you want to recreate what was on the Montana, you should just order a diverter valve kit from WRLong and have your dealer install it when they set up your tractor. Make sure you coordinate between the dealer and the grapple manufacturer regarding the fitting sizes on the hydraulic hoses. You'll need two sets of quick couplers to match up the hoses coming from the diverter valve to the grapple. Mine are oversized and were I to do it again I'd use the smaller 3/8 or maybe they are 1/4 size quick couplers provided by WRLong rather than the more expensive 1/2 inch size. Any of those would be fine for grapple work.

I just looked at the WRLong webpage: Valve Kits What you probably had on the Montana was the "selector valve kit" plus the bulkhead plate with fittings. The simplest way to get the correct materials would be to call Nelson at WRLong and go over it with him. He is very helpful and knows the stuff inside out. You'll only need to know the hydraulic hose fitting size that comes with whichever grapple you buy. Obviously he would like to sell you one of their grapples too but I'm sure they don't mind selling their diverter and bulkhead kits for use on other grapples.

 

[hill]

I think we're just using different terms to say the same thing, Islandtractor. I didn't mean to sound as though I was taking exception to anything you've said. Instead I meant to describe the alternative to a diverter/selector setup, which is the electric over hydraulic that I now have.

The instructions that come with the W.R. Long kit are titled "Installation of Electric over Hydraulic valve kit. It's the kit I linked to and the kit I just installed. It does not derive fluid from any other function.

A diverter valve pipes fluid to one accessory while cutting off fluid to the function normally powered by that fluid. It "diverts" it from what it usally does to do something else. While doind so the original function is deactivated. A lot of people here have chosen this method to power a grapple if it doesn't worry them not to be able to curl their buckets while grappling something. (the curl function is probably the most often used, but another function could be chosen). It's gotta' be cheaper to do then the Long kit, and the valve doesn't have to be piped to any other valve. Instead it can be installed right on the loader arm for a simpler install. I think, but don't know, that most diverter valves are also electrically controlled with a switch and battery power.

To my mind a selector valve is the same thing as a diverter valve.

 

[curly]

I've posted a photo of my tractor showing the way these are mounted on the torque tube of the loader (the cross piece in front of the loader just behind the attachment plate.)

Wow, that grapple looks small on the new tractor

 

[IslandTractor]

Wow, that grapple looks small on the new tractor

Grapples should not be as wide as buckets. I find the 48 inch grapple to be just fine with the larger tractor and if I were buying another it would be the same size or maybe even smaller....for digging out roots and tree stumps you really want a narrow grapple so all the force is concentracted midline. For moving piles of brush a wider grapple give you a bit more capacity but I can load my 48inch grapple with so much brush that I cannot see where I am driving so there would really not be much point in a wider version as that would only interfer with my ability to lean around and peek to see where I need to steer.

 

[IslandTractor]

I think we're just using different terms to say the same thing, .

I agree. The only thing that may still be confusing is that WRLong sells both the true third function "electric over hydraulic" kit that you installed and also the less expensive "diverter" valve set up that I have. The link that you provided actually has both valve kits on the same page which adds to the confusion.

 

[BarryinMN]

Grapple just needs to get a piece of something to contain stuff.

Pix of a old model A John Deere 38" rear tires pulling a 4x9 dump trailer for scale.

 

[hill]

I agree. The only thing that may still be confusing is that WRLong sells both the true third function "electric over hydraulic" kit that you installed and also the less expensive "diverter" valve set up that I have. The link that you provided actually has both valve kits on the same page which adds to the confusion.

You know, I had never scrolled so far down the W.R. Long valve page to see the diverter kit they offer. If I'd known they describe one I wouldn't have rattled on about it.

I guess the reason for the mount on the loader arm is that the diverter valve is larger than the solenoid valve. The kit they sent me tucked neatly under the loader valve and wouldn't be noticed by anyone who didn't know what it is.