Grapple hydraulics install

[oneillmj]

I purchased a small grapple for my first tractor, a Kioti CK35, this past Fall and want to install it for use this Spring. I've plenty of experience with plumbing but little with hydraulics, so please pardon any dumb or dumber questions here. The grapple is only for occasional use on my ten acres.

1. First I understand I will need to purchase a diverter valve or something similar to route hydraulic fluid to the grapple when in use. In plumbing, a diverter valve might cost less than twenty dollars. The least expensive hydraulic diverter valve for this application I've seen costs over $400. What exactly are you paying for here?

2. From the diverter valve to the grapple I'll need to run a length of hydraulic hose. I think there may be different types of connectors to go on the hose. What should I be looking for in this regard?

3. When you install the new hydraulic valve and hose how do you keep hydraulic fluid from squirting or leaking out all over the place? And do you have to bleed the new line like you would a new brake line on your car?

4. I was considering positioning the new diverter valve right after the control that raises and lowers the three point hitch, so that same control could alternately control the grapple opening and closing when in use. Is that a reasonable idea or no?

Thanks you very much for any replies.

Mike

 

[Underdog57]

Do you have any rear hydraulic ports back by the 3 PT. Hitch?

 

[mwayne]

If you haven't, maybe watch this guy's series of videos on the subject:

installing a third function on a budget part 1 - YouTube

 

[oneillmj]

Do you have any rear hydraulic ports back by the 3 PT. Hitch?

I don't believe so, but I will go out and double-check to be sure.

Mike

 

[oneillmj]

If you haven't, maybe watch this guy's series of videos on the subject:

installing a third function on a budget part 1 - YouTube

Thanks, I'll check it out.

Mike

 

[Bearsixty7]

Not cheap, but may be the simplest answer and the least hassle or headache.

3rd function auxiliary hydraulic kits for all brands of tractors and loaders

 

[dstig1]

Here was mine. Expect easily $700 for a diverter, hoses, fittings, etc

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/282127-new-tractor-mods.html?highlight=

 

[ericm979]

The 3pt is the last valve in the circuit. The flow dumps into the tank from there. You have to put it in the chain before the 3pt.

Use JIC connectors. They are super common and work much better than NPT. Hoses commonly come with JIC female on each end. But many valves and other fittings have NPT or SAE ports so you will need adaptors. Use LocTite 545 on NPT threads for hydraulics.

You can use either a diverter or a 3rd function. The diverter is usually plumbed to divert the loader's curl/dump circuit. That way you can keep your hand on the loader valve (with a switch on the knob). Using the 3pt would mean dropping your hand way down to the 3pt control to operate the grapple. I have a remote valve on the fender with the handle positioned next to the loader joystick, and even moving my hand 6" is noticably slowing my grapple operation. Eventually I will make a 3rd function.

With a diverter on the curl circuit you can't curl and open/close the grapple at the same time. But your loader valve may not allow that anyhow. Mine doesn't. When operated all flow goes out the dump port, none to the power beyond port. Many loader valves have regen on the curl circuit, where flow goes between the two sides of the curl cylinder to keep the bucket from "flopping" (for an explanation see https://www.****************.com/th...ive-function-of-a-fel-valve-read-it-here.749/). That won't work well for a grapple.

With a 3rd function you could theoretically operate the loader, curl and grapple at the same time. If your loader valve isn't like mine and sends flow out the PB port when operated. In practice you'd have to have a really good loader valve and have the loads on all three cylinder equal, otherwise the one with the least pressure moves first. So it's not likely to work.

The diverter on the loader curl lets you "feather" the force to the grapple and the 3rd function doesn't. Except I never ever actually do that. It's always full on until the lids stop moving.

The diverter or 3rd function valve itself can be had for about $125 and up. The major costs will be the valve and the replacement knob for the joystick that has the button or buttons on it. Good ones can be close to $200. But there are a lot of cheaper alternatives that may be slightly less ergonomic. You'll also need hoses and fittings, and will need to make some brackets.

Or you can get a kit. The WR Long 3rd fuction kit is well regarded and costs about $850.

 

[jthibodeau89]

I'm doing a DIY conversion on the curl circuit. Surplus Center has the diverter valve for $60. The aftermaket wiring harness is ~$90 from Kenny at Bolt-on-Hooks. Adapters and hose ends will run ~$75. I already have the hose. I will run hard lines down the inside of the boom to the OEM location. I'm using ORFS hose ends to match the current JD hoses on my 4300 tractor with 430 loader. If you go with an OEM joystick switch, be sure to confirm the contact amp rating. The OEM JD ergo joystick is rated for signal level currents only, and requires control relays for the diverter valve. I will mount the diverter valve on my loader frame, so the wiring harness will also need a mid-joint like the hoses to allow decoupling the loader.

I'm sure you will enjoy your grapple. I am using mine with the manual 3rd SCV until i get the diverter installed..

 

[oneillmj]

Thank you jthbodeau89, ericm979, dstig1, and Bearsixty7 for your advice. I will look at all the links you provided this morning soon as I have a minute, and will get back to you here if I've any questions on any of your well appreciated replies.

Mike.