MadDogDriver
Gold Member
LaVita said:
Nice grapple Chuck!! Looks like it'll do a lot of damage without hurting itself.
Grapple GRAPPLE RAKE
- Thread starter flINTLOCK
- Start date
- Views: 5564
Nice grapple Chuck!! Looks like it'll do a lot of damage without hurting itself.
LaVita
Bronze Member
Well my intention was to take more pics before I started, but one thing led to another and anyway, here is the finished product.
The first pic is of the diverter and surrounding area. There is a cover that goes over the diverter, but I will need to remove a hose or two temporarily to get it on.
The second pic is a closer pic of the diverter. This pic was taken while I was installing the diverter valve. I had mounted the valve but was working the wiring. BTW, I simple tapped two 5/16 x 24 holes in the loader upright to mount the diverter to.
You can see the 12V red wire that I am about to connect to the key switch. This line has a 10A inline fuse that is dangling in the picture. The third pic is a close up of the connection to the key switch.
The fourth pic shows the diverter button on the joystick. This energizes the solenoid on the diverter. And works very well. It does take some practice though. If you release the button before bringing the joystick back to center the loader front end immediately goes into the roll.
The last pic is the hose section in front of the tractor that connects to the grapple. It turns out that the hose section is too short to allow the full motion of the grapple (ie. roll down) so I have made up longer hoses but have not put them on yet. How do you manage long hoses like this? When the grapple is rolled all the way back, there will be 5 feet of hose that needs to stay out of the way of pinch points or loader quick attach handles etc. I need to set up some kind of spring tension system to pull the hose safely out of the way when the full length of the hose is not needed. If you have done this kind of thing please comment and remember pics, pics, pics.
The first pic is of the diverter and surrounding area. There is a cover that goes over the diverter, but I will need to remove a hose or two temporarily to get it on.
The second pic is a closer pic of the diverter. This pic was taken while I was installing the diverter valve. I had mounted the valve but was working the wiring. BTW, I simple tapped two 5/16 x 24 holes in the loader upright to mount the diverter to.
You can see the 12V red wire that I am about to connect to the key switch. This line has a 10A inline fuse that is dangling in the picture. The third pic is a close up of the connection to the key switch.
The fourth pic shows the diverter button on the joystick. This energizes the solenoid on the diverter. And works very well. It does take some practice though. If you release the button before bringing the joystick back to center the loader front end immediately goes into the roll.
The last pic is the hose section in front of the tractor that connects to the grapple. It turns out that the hose section is too short to allow the full motion of the grapple (ie. roll down) so I have made up longer hoses but have not put them on yet. How do you manage long hoses like this? When the grapple is rolled all the way back, there will be 5 feet of hose that needs to stay out of the way of pinch points or loader quick attach handles etc. I need to set up some kind of spring tension system to pull the hose safely out of the way when the full length of the hose is not needed. If you have done this kind of thing please comment and remember pics, pics, pics.
Attachments
LaVita
Bronze Member
IslandTractor, the grapple is 66". The grapple, diverter, joystick knob, all hoses and connectors including quick connects for the front, all wiring, fuses, etc., including shipping was $3294. The only thing I had to buy outside of what Dale sent me was the longer front end hoses and an extension piece I needed to get my loader hoses to reach the diverter valve.
I love the grapple but also love having learned a ton about hydraulics and about hydraulics on my tractor specifically. This was a great project, but now its off to tend those burn piles and 26 acres of logging to clean up.
I love the grapple but also love having learned a ton about hydraulics and about hydraulics on my tractor specifically. This was a great project, but now its off to tend those burn piles and 26 acres of logging to clean up.
3RRL
Super Member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2005
- Messages
- 6,931
- Tractor
- 55HP 4WD KAMA 554 and 4 x 4 Jinma 284
Here's what I did to give you an idea.LaVita said:
I set mine up so the long hoses only go to the cross bar on the fel bars. Then plumbed from there to "T's" right on the back of the bucket for my dual grapple set up. You won't have to do that last part. You can plumb from the cross bar to your hydraulic cylinder and only that hose will need some length to flex enough allowing full range.
wkpoor
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2007
- Messages
- 613
- Location
- Amanda, OH
- Tractor
- John Deere 5400, Farmall H, Farmall Cub, Allis Chalmers CA
Chuck, the Bodozer looks great and I know you will like it. Talk at you later. Bill
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Messages
- 15,802
- Location
- Prudence Island, RI
- Tractor
- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
RedRocker said:
That's great. The more the merrier. Soon grapples will be like bush hogs: an invaluable tool that everyone acquires to get the most out of their CUT. Did you get the QA version or a Kioti pin version?
IslandTractor
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 15, 2005
- Messages
- 15,802
- Location
- Prudence Island, RI
- Tractor
- 2007 Kioti DK40se HST, Woods BH
RedRocker said:
There are definite trade offs either way. I was originally going to get the pin version and ended up getting the QA adapter simply because Millonzi wanted a guinea pig to try it out on a small CUT and gave me the QA adapter in trade for giving them feedback. The adapter has been fine but I have yet to modify my original bucket with a QA receiver plate so I've essentially gone the last year with no bucket. (Remember the tractor is on an island so I cannot bop down to the local weldor...I'm slowly collecting the necessary tools to do it myself.) So, there are some advantages with the QA but there are also benefits to sticking with the pin system.
I forget whether you are using rear remotes or a diverter.
LaVita
Bronze Member
I like the hose work 3RRL.
I talked to Dale at BoDozer this morning. One of my short cylinder hoses got nicked during shipping. Dale knew about it and called me up to tell me he was shipping a new one (actually two cause he wanted to make sure the other hose right next to it was fine). I told him about the slack hose issue and he is also sending me a thick plastic spring that will allow the hose to straighten when needed but spring back into a curve when slack. All this stuff he is sending at no charge. You can't go wrong working with Dale. Oh yeah, he is also going to send me a new joystick knob when he gets his finished product. It will have a BoDozer logo on it. It's been great working with Dale on this.
I talked to Dale at BoDozer this morning. One of my short cylinder hoses got nicked during shipping. Dale knew about it and called me up to tell me he was shipping a new one (actually two cause he wanted to make sure the other hose right next to it was fine). I told him about the slack hose issue and he is also sending me a thick plastic spring that will allow the hose to straighten when needed but spring back into a curve when slack. All this stuff he is sending at no charge. You can't go wrong working with Dale. Oh yeah, he is also going to send me a new joystick knob when he gets his finished product. It will have a BoDozer logo on it. It's been great working with Dale on this.