Grease ?

[double e]

Hello, I am a new member and just bought my first tractor a massey 1528w/L90FEL . I have been reading several post about what grease to use. Pretty much everything I read here says to use a ep moly base grease, but my manual says to use a lithium base #2 grease. I know following the manual is ok, but is it the best. Also I was trying to buy from a local store for convenience (tractor supply) (auto zone) and came across 2 types of grease one is Traveller moly lithium grease, and the other is coastal moly ep grease, any advice would be app. Thanks

 

[SARG]

I'm a novice in the tractor realm as well ...... but my impression today is that the simple lubes sold by Tractor Supply in the Traveller line are more than satisfactory.

The guys that do know use it so that says a lot.

 

[devildog1]

Following the manual is the right thing to do, but-- no matter what grease you use, you need to grease after a few hours of use. It's just my opinion that most grease you can buy from tractor supply stores will be fine, just make sure It's a regular schedule greasing and you'll be fine.
DevilDog

 

[SARG]

Another point to mention is that the manuals warn about excessive pressure when you do the regular greasing. Some of the seals can be pushed out if you overdue the process.

I suspect that means you just give each zerc a couple squirts without over filling each cavity or union.

 

[Deano]

Following the manual is the right thing to do, but-- no matter what grease you use, you need to grease after a few hours of use. It's just my opinion that most grease you can buy from tractor supply stores will be fine, just make sure It's a regular schedule greasing and you'll be fine.
DevilDog

Good advice...I second this!!

Deano

 

[double e]

Thanks for the replies, I think I am going to head over to TSC today to pick up a few tubes or case, and maybe even a new subsoiler if they have one

 

[wdevries]

Moly grease should not be used in high speed bearings, as Moly is metal powder and will retain heat. All other applications will benefit from a EP grease.
WdV

 

[ModMech]

Unless you are dealing with a SEALED shaft/bearing/linkage you should grease until you see a SMALL amount of fresh grease from the area being lubed.

In my opinion, it is far more important not to routinely MIX grease types than to be overly concerned about what type.

Almost every failure I see is related to LACK of maintenance, not using the wrong stuff in doing it.

 

[Mousefield]

I bought a case of grease from Chevron, that way I always have some and it the same product. In previous posts it does mention it is better to grease more often than less. Grease is relatively inexpensive. I grease my loader and backhoe until a bit of grease starts coming out. That way I know there is grease inside. There are a couple of place that the manual tells you not to over grease, these are on the tractor itself.

 

[oldballs]

Moly grease should not be used in high speed bearings, as Moly is metal powder and will retain heat. All other applications will benefit from a EP grease.
WdV

My owners manual call for "Multipurpose Grease" NLGI-2 or NLGI-1(GC-LB). The Valvoline #W633 that I use on my Ford truck and everything else is exactly as described in the manual. However it also says that it is a Moly-fortified Lithium complex EP grease. It says that its application is for automotive wheel bearings and chassis. Thus can I use it on my BX2660 per the manual as well as the mower and FEL? I don't think there are any high speed bearing involved .

 

[Glen Watkins]

Schaeffer Lubricants | Supreme Moly Grease

 

[mustangsallysdad]

Hello, I am a new member and just bought my first tractor a massey 1528w/L90FEL . I have been reading several post about what grease to use. Pretty much everything I read here says to use a ep moly base grease, but my manual says to use a lithium base #2 grease. I know following the manual is ok, but is it the best. Also I was trying to buy from a local store for convenience (tractor supply) (auto zone) and came across 2 types of grease one is Traveller moly lithium grease, and the other is coastal moly ep grease, any advice would be app. Thanks

I've always used a multi purpose, EP (extreme pressure) HT (high temperature) grease...it can be used anywhere...fittings, u-joints, chassis, pivots and wheel bearings...vehicle or tractor and you don't have to worry about using moly.

 

[D7E]

Moly grease should not be used in high speed bearings, as Moly is metal powder and will retain heat. All other applications will benefit from a EP grease.
WdV

I would'nt worry too much about this too much as a lot of our staff just pick up the closest to hand grease gun and our forager choppers and combine rotors get a good old mix of greases but i havent seen any increase in bearing failures since i used to use the appropriate grease for the job and to be honest for the last few years i've just bought castrol MP from wal-y-world !

 

[mustangsallysdad]

I would'nt worry too much about this too much as a lot of our staff just pick up the closest to hand grease gun and our forager choppers and combine rotors get a good old mix of greases but i havent seen any increase in bearing failures since i used to use the appropriate grease for the job and to be honest for the last few years i've just bought castrol MP from wal-y-world !

I like the way you think!!! Also, to all of you "Don't use Moly in wheel bearings" guys: You'll find that most modern high speed wheel bearing grease will state "Moly or Molybdenum fortified" right on the tube or bulk can. Buy cheap, multi-purpose, EP, high temp grease and you can use it on everything, including wheel bearings...it's cheap and readily available. Everyone overthinks grease too much! Just buy some and use it often. I personally have NEVER had a failure from using the wrong grease...now, lack of grease...that's a different story.

 

[slan]

This might be a bit different situation but when I first bought by TLB I rushed out and bought a pail of multipurpose farm and equipment grease from CT and greased regularly.

After about 2000 hours of use my pins and bushings were starting to wear badly. Problem was that the grease didn't have the right additives to prevent it from breaking down and running out of the pins.

Bad mistake on my behalf and lesson learned. It probably doesn't matter as much with the smaller units but I know that I will never buy a low end general purpose grease for anything no matter what the label says.

I cant remember what type I use now but it is RED and tacky. In my boto I use a high quality lithium grease. No replaceable bushings in the loader...

When in doubt, ask a reputable service guy or equipment owner what they use.

 

[D7E]

This might be a bit different situation but when I first bought by TLB I rushed out and bought a pail of multipurpose farm and equipment grease from CT and greased regularly.

After about 2000 hours of use my pins and bushings were starting to wear badly. Problem was that the grease didn't have the right additives to prevent it from breaking down and running out of the pins..

I would'nt be too quick to blame the grease. We bought 2 new telehandlers 1 JCB and 1 terex . After using same grease at same intervals on same work at 3000hrs the terex pins and bushes were wore out and JCB were like new and have had similar experiences with loaders. The steel quality and design of the machine play a big part..?
I'l post some pics of a MF tractor i have with 7000hrs and has never even had zerks fitted to the loader from new somehow (I bought it used) has only just started to wear through the bushes into the frame....Never been greased in 7000hrs ?

 

[mustangsallysdad]

This might be a bit different situation but when I first bought by TLB I rushed out and bought a pail of multipurpose farm and equipment grease from CT and greased regularly.

After about 2000 hours of use my pins and bushings were starting to wear badly. Problem was that the grease didn't have the right additives to prevent it from breaking down and running out of the pins.

Bad mistake on my behalf and lesson learned. It probably doesn't matter as much with the smaller units but I know that I will never buy a low end general purpose grease for anything no matter what the label says.

I cant remember what type I use now but it is RED and tacky. In my boto I use a high quality lithium grease. No replaceable bushings in the loader...

When in doubt, ask a reputable service guy or equipment owner what they use.

If you check, you may find that the slop isn't in the pins and bushings, but rather the sides of your cylinder eyes. I just shimmed all my pivot points with bronze machine bushings (look like bronze washers) and I'm fanataical about greasing...but after 1700 hours you have to expect a minimum of wear, especially on things like FEL pivots...mine gets used on a daily basis and a couple of new 1/16" bronze washers here and there tightened everything back up like new. There was absolutely no wear in the pins or journals, however.

 

[slan]

I wouldn't be too quick to blame the grease. ?

It was the construction guy that pointed out that it was breaking down and just running out of the pins. Like running down the boom.:thumbdown: It was truly bad grease which would break down with very little heat. Probably was the same grade a chassis grease rather than extreme pressure as it was labeled.
I hear you on the pin and bushing deal for sure. Not sure but I think I am on the lucky side of the Ford vintage being an 88, after the bad engine deal and just before the New Holland switch. Haven't had a problem with it in over 4,000 hours but she is a bit long in the tooth now, time to rest soon

mustangsallysdad, Funny you mentioned that, I did that with the dipper and boom points but most of my wear is in the swivel and main boom pins. I might pop them out this winter and replace but the clutch packs got about another 1000hrs left in them so its probably not worth it. Thanks for the tip though.:thumbsup:

 

[Grateful11]

I've always liked Mystik JT6 grease, seems to be good quality and meets the
specs of our JD Round Baler.

 

[mustangsallysdad]

It's worth mentioning...sometimes a small weep or leak from a cylinder or hose will allow hydraulic fluid to infiltrate the pin/bushing journal and it will contaminate the grease which causes the breakdown of the grease and it will become so thin that it will run like water.