Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402

   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #11  
We stock the G&S double action sickle mowers with or without hydraulic lift cyl in the 5-6 and 7 ft cutterbar lengths--Also have around 20-30 rebuilt Used 6 and 7 ft sickle mowers (various brands, MF.JD,Ford,New Holland,IH etc)--Pictured below is a Used JD #39 7 ft sickle mower that brings back a lot of old memories for some of the old timmers befroe disc mowers replaced them--Ken Sweet

Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *New and Used Equipment*
jd39mowerfront595.JPG
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #12  
Ken,
Is it possible to install a hydraulic lift on the older JD #39 sickle bars?
I want to trim around our pond. What happens if the end of the blade hits the water? Can I just keep the blades oiled or will it explode halfway to China?
Kyle
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #13  
Deerlope, I'm having a tough time getting good specs on these. How big a sapling will one of these sicklebar mowers cut? My power line runs up alongside my drive and the ROW is full of saplings around an inch across. It is elevated above the drive and across the drainage ditch I dug last fall, so I can't brush hog it. The SBM would be perfect, if it could cut saplings.

The guy I bought this place from tried to sell me a SBM and a brush hog. They were both laying out in a field and looked like they had been for several years. Both were covered with rust and I couldn't make heads or tails of how the SBM was attached or worked, so I passed on both. Hmmm, maybe a hasty decision? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #14  
well I have grown up with them so to say. Horse drawn , up to tractor. If the sickel bar has the serrerated blades in it( which is rare) 3/4 to1" saplings would be no challege for it. The power for the old horse drawn ones were powered by a wheel that ran on the ground and if the sapling was to big it would just make the wheel slide. With the PTO type the sickle bar had a more constant speed and worked a lot better but if sapling was too big it would make the belt slip. the cutters in the sickel bar are replaceable so the serrerated ones can be put in it. Even though I am only a weekend farmer now, I have been around farming all my life. I have paid close attention to the machines that they use. Some of the old machines were slower but better.
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #16  
Richard,
We are using licensed copy of Gribaldi&Salvia lateral mounted sickle bar mowers for over 30 years. Experience with them is excellent. Problem is mowing in wet grass after rain, because of clogging.

Superior 402 is 3pt mounted, double knife mower. Faster than standard sickle mower, and no clogging problem.

The licensed Superior models are produced in my country, too. People who own it are happy with it. If they are excellent, original G&S can only be better!

If you a looking for one, you'll buy good machine, I think. Just use grease gun on driving mechanism often, and oil bar sometimes, too...

Good luck.

ZJ
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #17  
I don't understand from botany/biology (grass, etc) - but I think sickle bar mower must be better, less harmfull from biology point of view as it shouldn't give as much damage to the grass as the high speed rotational mowers such as finish, drum, etc. are giving. I think these rotary mowers with high speeds applying a vertical pressure to the grass must be giving some damage to the grass (burning the grass at the top) and resulting in shortening the life of grass. On the other hand, sickle bar cutter applying a pressure/force on the grass stem only horizontally probably gives the grass much less damage. I have not experienced this as I don't have the both, but this can be tested simply in the field. Operate a drum mower on the grass or clover several times and observe this grass area/clover for some months and operate sickle bar mower too in an area a few feets away from this area where you operated drum mower and observe there sickled area too for some months. I guess the grass/clover area you cut by drum mower will stay much shorter because the grass/clover will not renew itself as it was burned at its top by the rotary mower. Maybe, you have already observed this. or am I wrong?
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #18  
You could not be further from the truth. The faster blade or cutting action of the rotary, disc, & drum mower commits less damage to the plant than the linear or chewing action of a sickle bar mower.
 
   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #19  
Further explanation. I meant in that post that high rpm mowers are causing some high temperature spots on the cut grass surface due to friction and that (high temperature) must be causing the grass to burn at top. And, this will probably kill the grass cells at its top and the grass (mowed by high rpm blades) won't renew itself. Today I asked some drum mower users and they confirmed my this opinion. In years, they have realized that drum mower is giving the damage to their grass / clover fields. I draw a simple sketch to show the effect of high rpm drum / finish mower on the grass.
 

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   / Gribaldi & Salvia Superior 402 #20  
Again you show your lack of operation experience. The sickle bar mowers travel in a linear motion at a slow speed and sickle knife contacts the stem longer than disc or drum mowers. The chewing action of the sickle bar mower damages the stem leaving a jagged cut. When you look at the stems of grass hay cut by a disc or drum mower you will see straight razor cuts with less stem damage than the sicklebar mowers. Less stem damage promotes faster regrowth. Also you will find that disc and drum mower operators are cutting their hay in the morning and evenings with more moisture on the hay. This moisture works a lubricant and allows the knife of the disc and drum mower to cut a softer stem.
 
 

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