Grinding Sound !! - Dealer Says NORMAL

[PineRidge]

I will add that when we 1st took delivery of our TC40D every once in a while it would emit a loud annoying rattling when I hit a certain RPM band. It was a while before I was finally able to determine that the long heavy BH brace that runs from the front of the rig to the rear axle on the left side was never bolted up to the rear axle when the tractor was delivered to me. A trip to TSC and two bolts later and all was quiet. Check for loose fasteners, especially dealer installed nuts/bolts.

 

[Doc_Bob]

I have an appointment to show my video tape and "issues" log to the dealer tomorrow. I plan on having them sign something indicating these issues were brought to their attention, providing them with a copy and keeping one for myself. I'll keep you all informed of the outcome. Thanks for the analysis.

I think a letter to them documenting the problem is all you need. Maybe one of the legal folk here can comment. Having them sign something is icing on the cake.
Bob

 

[MoyockHeel]

Thanks for the input. I'm getting ready to leave to visit the dealer. I have some other "specifcs" that I'll explain later, after determining what they plan to do.

As for the loose bolts, I've checked, with wrenches. This grinding noise occurs with engine running at different RPM's, at different ground speeds, but always, so far, in forward motion, in Hi/Hi.

If I get some satisfaction, today, I may be able to post my issues log, and maybe even some of the video/audio. It will take a lot of assistance from the board 'pros' to get it on here tho, I'm a considerable newby at posting.

 

[MoyockHeel]

Update from Dealer visit.

Service mgr watched/listened to the tape. Agreed to contact NH rep. He admitted there was problems with the hydraulics, based on the 3PH noise/slowness that was evident on the tape. Was non-committal on the grinding noise.

He signed my log of issues and agreed to place it in my service file. I have a copy of that document. He kept a copy of the video tape to show the NH rep. Supposed to arrange for the NH rep to visit me and drive it until it grinds. NH rep is in PA "in training". I plan to call daily, or visit as I work w/in 10 miles of the dealer. If I have to carry a video camera around when I'm using the tractor, I can surely ask what is happening to resolve my issues.

I want the tractor fixed, or replaced, or a settlement made and they can have it back. With less than 40 hours, no machine should be displaying the issues I'm having and be considered normal. Does anyone have advice for other actions? I'm curious about my legal rights. I have been and I'm willing to continue to be patient, but would like to know what can be done, legally, if it gets to that point. I've never had to take legal action with anything, much less purchases (cars, trucks, boats, etc.) but there is too much money involved to be complacent and accept something less than is expected. I'm 50. I expect a tractor that should last me the rest of my useful life. (I've used it less than 40 hours in four months, and at this point I can't imagine this tractor making it.) I don't think that is unreasonable, using it to grade the driveway, mow 2 acres, with occasional FEL work. This is a 40 HP tractor. The old Ford 650 probably was 25 hp. I used it for 15 years, and it handled it well, at 35 years old.

I'm going to check the MFD? cover today. One on the showroom floor had some movement that I'll look at on my tractor. I really hope that's it, but not confident. Thanks in advance for any more advice.

 

[IH3444]

Good plan, I would be worried about owning that machine for a long time. I think the dealer should swap it out for another new TC unit. There was a thread about 3 years ago about a TC40 unit hydro gernading. It turned out to be a sinstered bronze bushing bore the piston for the either pump, or motor ran in. The owner had to eat a $3K bill. Good Luck.

 

[farmacist]

Thanks for the input. This grinding noise occurs with engine running at different RPM's, at different ground speeds, but always, so far, in forward motion, in Hi/Hi.

Did you mean Hi/Hi???? Are you doing all these tasks with your tractor in Hi/Hi?? Like Mowing and grading??? Do you ever use a lower range for any tasks?? Sounds to me like you might consider slowing down. Good luck, Frank

 

[MoyockHeel]

Hello Farm, You have touched a nerve. Sorry if I'm ranting, but her goes. Yes, I said Hi/Hi. I do use lower ranges, EVEN 4X4 when necesssary, like heavy grading, FEL loading, traversing muddy areas, etc. I have had tractor operating experience since I was a young child, on my grandfather's Oliver 77's, including extensive field time on an International 856, 1566, and 1468. These tractors were 30+ years old when I operated them, and they're still being used and the oldest ones are over 50 y.o. now!! I used these tractors to disk, disk bed, plant, field cultivate, dig drains, pull grain trailers, and cultivate; everything from small soy beans to waist high corn, on a commercial farm, which includes the farm I live on. I have operated a '56 model Ford 650 for about 20 years, mowing in 5th gear, at most times. All said, I know when I'm going too fast. I know when the engine is "lugging". I pull a six foot BEFCO finish mower. The 40 DA doesn't even know it's back there. (EXCEPT WHEN IT CAN"T PICK IT UP!!) So, can you explain what sluggish/noisy 3PH operation, has to do with "slowing down"? I don't care if I was running the tractor's throttle wide open, (which I don't, I mow at 2200 - 2400 RPM's) with less than 40 hours on a 40 hp tractor, if it's hurt, then I didn't get my money's worth! My yard is ~ 2 acres, flat as a pancake, with only a small area of fescue that occasionally gets tall enough to get slightly tough. I sharpen my mower blades after about each 3rd mowing. My driveway is ~1500 ft long, flat as a pancake, made with shell sand. I've mowed my lawn maybe 10 times, I've graded/dragged my driveway twice!! If you're going to imply that I have abused this tractor and somehow damaged it, I take offense to your accusations. I provided a video tape of me operating the tractor to the dealer. It includes starting, engaging the PTO, operating the 3PH, and then over 45 minutes of mowing. On that tape there are 10+ instances of it making the grinding noise, plus the 3PH issue. The dealer NEVER mentioned anything about me operating the tractor improperly, too fast, etc. I have several old vehicles I operate ('85 ranger, 93 econoline, '93 F150) that I do most of the maintenance on. I did all the maintenance on my old tractor, I rebuilt the 302 engine in a '79 mustang, and I've worked 23+ years in an automotive assembly plant, so I'm fairly mechanically inclined, (above average if you ask me, but you didn't). If you want to be a NH apologist, fine. As I said, I really want the tractor to be what I wanted/expected, but it's NOT! I came here to ask for help, but your suggestion is somewhat smarmy to me. If you want to challenge my tractor operating capabilities, fine, but why don't you give me your credentials as an expert in the field, first. Maybe you are, but I haven't made time to research your posts on this site. If you want to ask if I'm going too fast, that's fine, but the tone of your posts was accusatory. I welcome any helpful advice. Thanks.

 

[klm]

You are running in the wrong range (hi/hi) for most of these tasks. I don't give a darn how much experience you have. Probably not the cause of the noise but you are in the wrong range.

 

[farmacist]

Hello Farm, You have touched a nerve. Thanks.

I apologize for upsetting you. I should not have used the words "slowing down" . I should have suggested that you "GEAR DOWN" and try it in a lower gear. Hi/Hi is TOO high a gear to grade a level driveway. Please try it using a lower gear and then push the foot pedal down further than you have been in Hi/Hi and continue to run at the same rpm's. I do not make this suggestion to anger you but I am trying to help. Frank

 

[jinman]

MoyockHeel, I don't think "Hi/Hi" (Hi/Rabbit?) has anything to do with either problem you are experiencing, but I do admit being surprised that you are using it for anything but a road gear. I would try to achieve the same speed in Hi/Turtle with the pedal all the way down rather than Hi/Rabbit with the pedal just slightly pressed. I do think you are more likely to put your transmission into pressure bypass in the situation you mentioned. However, if Hi/Turtle won't go fast enough and the tractor will pull in Hi/Rabbit, I see no reason to believe you would damage anything by doing it that way. Is it possible your pedal stop is adjusted such that you can't get full speed in Hi/Turtle?