GUN SAFE

   / GUN SAFE #71  
PSJ, that was along my way of thinking too. The crack addicts should not be a threat to our safes..600lbs plus the bolts might hold them off, cannot be worried about it to much. I do have an alarm system too...
 
   / GUN SAFE #72  
yep.. just about any metal 'homak' or 'stack on' walmart / kart special that lag bolts to floor and wall, and weighs a few hundred pounds loaded will deter most smash n grab guys.

soundguy
 
   / GUN SAFE #73  
So I guess Sturdy wins. Anyone disagree?

I posted something about safe crackers earlier in this thread you might want to ask around about how easy the lock is to pick. A 10,000 safe with 10 bolts may not be any better than an 800 safe with 6 if the lock can be drilled in 5 minutes. just sayin

btw I have an $800 safe a Cannon el cheepo and it works just fine not pretty but nobody gets to look at it in the first place its not on display on purpose. :)

Now on the other hand locks aside a good fire rating does add a lot of money . I personally dont know what is more likely by statistics a fire or a robbery probably best to prepare for both and hope neither happens.
 
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   / GUN SAFE
  • Thread Starter
#74  
Car Doc said:
I posted something about safe crackers earlier in this thread you might want to ask around about how easy the lock is to pick. A 10,000 safe with 10 bolts may not be any better than an 800 safe with 6 if the lock can be drilled in 5 minutes. just sayin

btw I have an $800 safe a Cannon el cheepo and it works just fine not pretty but nobody gets to look at it in the first place its not on display on purpose. :)

Now on the other hand locks aside a good fire rating does add a lot of money . I personally dont know what is more likely by statistics a fire or a robbery probably best to prepare for both and hope neither happens.

Sturdy states that it takes a locksmith 4 1/2 hours to get into a damaged safe. I would be adding the additional hardened steel plate around the lock. I don't know how long that would take to drill out, but I do know that, in the event of a burglary, Sturdy will not cover under the warrantee, the cost of a locksmith, if the steel plate is added. Without the steel plate they pretty much cover everything.

Now I just have to decide on the size. Not sure if I would rather the short and fat or tall and slim. If I were picking a wife, it would be a no-brainer. Seriously though I like the tall one more, but for some reason they don't offer the 5 gauge steel upgrade on the 6 foot models. So it's either a 36" wide by 60" with 5 gauge steel or 32" x 72" with 7 gauge.
 
   / GUN SAFE
  • Thread Starter
#75  
I am having this delivered to my garage and saving the $325 they charge to bring it inside. I plan on offering the driver a few dollars to help me bring it in. In the event that he refuses, does anyone think it's possible to move a thousand pound safe with my loader. Weight wise won't be a problem, but would I be able to actually stand it up in the bucket?

The door is removable, so that should cut it down to about 750 lbs. Still a lot of weight.
 
   / GUN SAFE #76  
I think just having a safe (regardless of brand) that is heavy enough not to moved, or bolted down will deter most thieves. I have been robbed and it appears the professional perpertrator takes very little time doing his job. They don't wan't to get tied up trying to force a safe. That said if the thief is determined and is targeting your gun collection he will already know what you have and come prepared to deal with it.

Most thieves are amaturish and oportunistic. They lack the time and knowledge to deal with even a cheap safe.

That's what I and most people are counting on. :D
 
   / GUN SAFE #77  
Good Point - How did the standup metal safes survive the water?

ok

one had water standing in the bottom but it had be stuffed in the back of a closet and was still upright. Not a LOT of fire directly impending on it. IT was a mechanical dial version that still operated.

another was in a back bedroom and that room had completely burnt and it was laying down. It had its digital face melted off and was unable to be opened. the backup/optional key cylinder also was non-functional. We kinda rolled it out of the mess that was left of that corner of the house and stood it up in the yard for the owner to deal with.

another standup mechanical dial one sat in a heavy fire load in the center of a house on a slab. while the dial still worked it was a bare inside version and gun stocks that were in contact with the walls had charred.

A smaller dorm fridge size fire poof safe with digital pannel was melted off. had water in the bottom but the docs on the mid shelf survived fine.
 
   / GUN SAFE #78  
Now I just have to decide on the size. Not sure if I would rather the short and fat or tall and slim. If I were picking a wife, it would be a no-brainer. Seriously though I like the tall one more, but for some reason they don't offer the 5 gauge steel upgrade on the 6 foot models. So it's either a 36" wide by 60" with 5 gauge steel or 32" x 72" with 7 gauge.

Pick a corner location in the house. One side of the safe will then be "protected" by a wall. Take the exposed side/wall of the safe and have them add an extra sheet of 7 gauge metal on that side. If you want to go hog wild, have them add the torch resistant 7 gauge stainless steel to the exposed side. They can do this with their 72" tall safe. They can do both sides of the safe, I suggested only one side to decrease your cost.

Terry (owner of Sturdy) actually talked me out of adding the harden plate around the dial lock (he mentioned that the area was already protected very well). After doing some more research, I came across this thread

House robbed, Sturdy Safe messed up. - AR15.COM

I figure with the added layers of security I already had in place, the hardened plate would be overkill and I could put the money elsewhere in the safe.

After all my research after owning a couple of safes, I went with the mechanical dial (on my previous "inexpensive" safes all had electronic locks). No regrets and easier than you'd think to open once you get use to it. One option to think about (if Sturdy) still offers it, is to have the "easy to read" dial installed (larger numbers, white on black). VERY easy on the eyes to read.

The only other two safes in consideration when I was looking was the Liberty Presidential model, and one of the higher end Fort Knox. As you have noticed, the savings can be substantial (as Sturdy sells direct to the homeowner).

For myself, this last safe purchase of mine was more than about protecting guns, but protecting other things that my wife and I and consider priceless (not much value to others, but more sentimental reasons). I figure with adding a fireproof box inside the the "fireproof" safe, it's about as safe as it's going to get if the house burns down.

In doing my research on my last purchase, there were many articles I had come across on the gypsum board the lower end safes were using. IMO when one goes looking for a tractor, one gets input from a tractor forum, when one goes looking for guns or a gun safe, one goes to a gun forum:D

I have no doubt in my mind after doing all the reading I had done on the subject, that someone with half a brain with some simple tools can attack the door (hardest attack point) of an "el cheapo" gun safe and be in within 10 minutes no problem (please keep in mind, I own some sub 1k safes). That said, even with a cheap gun safe, with multiple layers of security, you're increasing your odds that someone won't get in if they have the means to do so.

As of right now, I could of bought a $200 stack on and still wouldn't of had anyone steel anything (let's face it, what are the chances, particularly with the demographics of people on this forum that someone will actually break into your home?)

If you're going to spend the money on a quality safe, buy once, cry once. Go with the biggest safe you can afford and fit into your home. Particularly with the Sturdy, the inside dimensions decrease a good bit when you add the fireproofing. That said, me and a buddy can move our 600-700 lb safes all day long with a decent dolly. At least for myself, once you get into that plus 1200 lb range, getting someone who knows what their doing may not be a bad idea.
 
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   / GUN SAFE
  • Thread Starter
#79  
Sigarms said:
Pick a corner location in the house. One side of the safe will then be "protected" by a wall. Take the exposed side/wall of the safe and have them add an extra sheet of 7 gauge metal on that side. If you want to go hog wild, have them add the torch resistant 7 gauge stainless steel to the exposed side. They can do this with their 72" tall safe. They can do both sides of the safe, I suggested only one side to decrease your cost.

Terry (owner of Sturdy) actually talked me out of adding the harden plate around the dial lock (he mentioned that the area was already protected very well). After doing some more research, I came across this thread

House robbed, Sturdy Safe messed up. - AR15.COM

I figure with the added layers of security I already had in place, the hardened plate would be overkill and I could put the money elsewhere in the safe.

After all my research after owning a couple of safes, I went with the mechanical dial (on my previous "inexpensive" safes all had electronic locks). No regrets and easier than you'd think to open once you get use to it. One option to think about (if Sturdy) still offers it, is to have the "easy to read" dial installed (larger numbers, white on black). VERY easy on the eyes to read.

The only other two safes in consideration when I was looking was the Liberty Presidential model, and one of the higher end Fort Knox. As you have noticed, the savings can be substantial (as Sturdy sells direct to the homeowner).

For myself, this last safe purchase of mine was more than about protecting guns, but protecting other things that my wife and I and consider priceless (not much value to others, but more sentimental reasons). I figure with adding a fireproof box inside the the "fireproof" safe, it's about as safe as it's going to get if the house burns down.

In doing my research on my last purchase, there were many articles I had come across on the gypsum board the lower end safes were using. IMO when one goes looking for a tractor, one gets input from a tractor forum, when one goes looking for guns or a gun safe, one goes to a gun forum:D

I have no doubt in my mind after doing all the reading I had done on the subject, that someone with half a brain with some simple tools can attack the door (hardest attack point) of an "el cheapo" gun safe and be in within 10 minutes no problem (please keep in mind, I own some sub 1k safes). That said, even with a cheap gun safe, with multiple layers of security, you're increasing your odds that someone won't get in if they have the means to do so.

As of right now, I could of bought a $200 stack on and still wouldn't of had anyone steel anything (let's face it, what are the chances, particularly with the demographics of people on this forum that someone will actually break into your home?)

If you're going to spend the money on a quality safe, buy once, cry once. Go with the biggest safe you can afford and fit into your home. Particularly with the Sturdy, the inside dimensions decrease a good bit when you add the fireproofing. That said, me and a buddy can move our 600-700 lb safes all day long with a decent dolly. At least for myself, once you get into that plus 1200 lb range, getting someone who knows what their doing may not be a bad idea.

I don't really see the reason for adding the 7 gauge steel plate to the side of the cabinet. If the safe is already 5 or 7 gauge, which is supposedly too thick to get through with an ax, then how does the extra 7 gauge plate help?

Also do you think the upgrade to 5 gauge steel is necessary? I think for the extra $180 it's well worth it, but its not offered with the 6' safe. So if I find that the 5 gauge is a necessary option, then at least the decision on what size to get will be made for me.
 
   / GUN SAFE #80  
So it's either a 36" wide by 60" with 5 gauge steel or 32" x 72" with 7 gauge.

I am 6' tall and I like my 60" tall safe and mine is wide also and getting more long guns in (wide safe) was my criteria rather than more shelves.

I can see everything thats sitting on top and reach it easy thats the one I would pick 36x60. ymmv good luck :thumbsup:
 

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