Harbor Freight Tools that don't suck

[Garandman]

One thing I try to do religiously after ratchet strapping down a load, is drive a bit and then pull over, get out and check my straps and cinch them down tight. Often unusual, awkward loads shift and settle some after a couple start/stops, bumps, etc. Almost always I can tighten up a little. Just good practice IMO.

We stopped seven times in 600 miles. First stop was two miles down the road after some hard stops, hard acceleration, and driving over every bump I could find. Then tightened everything up.

The first 1-1/2” strap was not holding the keel (1,800 lbs of the 3600# bost) in place. Cinching down the hull of a 43yo boat didn’t seem prudent.

The 2” HF strap was OK, (3333 lb. Capacity 2 in. x 27 ft. Heavy Duty Ratcheting Tie Down 1 Pc) but was still a little flimsy and allowed some movement.

Replaced it with another brand that was much heavier. This is what we are using from now on. Keeper’s pounds must be a lot bigger....

Keeper Products | 4622 | Tie-Down, 27'x2" Ratch 10,000 lbs J-Hook. A little deceptive in that 10K is the breaking load: SWL is 1/3rd.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Thanks for your comments! Repipe? Is it likely that HF's supplier used US pipe threads or could that Ebay controller be the almost-match Brit/Japan type? It says " air inlet ports approx. 0.4 inch / 11 mm thread" whatever that is.

At least it includes the unloader.

Yeah, you might have to invest in some adapters. I bought their twin-cylinder air compressor unit (pump only) to replace mine when it froze up. Lots of reviews complained about the output being an odd metric thread. Mine had a standard 3/4" NPT male thread, so I was good to go, but they source from different suppliers, so you might get some wonky metric thread.

Take a thread gauge with you to the store and check it out.

 

[California]

Yeah, you might have to invest in some adapters. ... they source from different suppliers, so you might get some wonky metric thread. Take a thread gauge with you to the store and check it out.

Thanks for your advice!

I took out the safety relief valve and found it is specified in Metric and is stamped in tiny letters, BSP, British Standard Pipe. That thread is also used in Japanese cars and tractors and apparently by the Chinese when they clone stuff.

BSP 1/4" is almost compatible with 1/4" NPT, the American standard. I think the thread pitch is one more thread per inch. I found with oil pressure test gauges some NPT threads will screw into BSP and seal, at least for testing oil pressure, while another NPT fitting will be slightly too fat to catch the first thread.

So since the pressure relief valve is BSP I gambled that the whole assembly is that thread as well. I ordered this replacement pressure switch via Ebay. At only $12.50 its not much of a gamble.

1/4" BSP 4 Port Single Phase Air Compressor Pressure Switch + Safety Valve Gauge | eBay

And as you suggested, I may still need a handful of adapters before I am back to running a reliable pressure switch.

 

[Midniteoyl]

1/4" BSP 4 Port Single Phase Air Compressor Pressure Switch + Safety Valve Gauge | eBay

And as you suggested, I may still need a handful of adapters before I am back to running a reliable pressure switch.

I have that exact switch and gauge on my HF 8gal portable compressor, the older model of this one: 8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor

It came standard and works good.

 

[California]

I have that exact switch and gauge on my HF 8gal portable compressor, the older model of this one: 8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor

It came standard and works good.

My compressor is contemporary with yours, from HF about 10 years ago. It's the next larger one, 10 gallon tank and pretend 4 hp. This Ebay pressure switch is an identical replacement for its original switch, which became unpredictable after a 2 day painting project. It wouldn't cut off so the safety relief would unload, then soon it needed a rap on the side of the control to make it start. I cleaned the contacts, no improvement. Sprayed the plunger in the relay that moves in response to low pressure, using silicon spray - no change.

After I get the new control on there won't be any original parts between the motor and the ball valve where the hose attaches, so I should be back in business.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

M It's the next larger one, 10 gallon tank and pretend 4 hp.

Nailed it!

 

[3Ts]

My compressor is contemporary with yours, from HF about 10 years ago.

It's my understanding that pressure tanks have a 10 year service life.

I had a compressor tank corrode thru the wall and released all it's pressure while I was in the shop. Fortunately it was equivalent to opening a valve so just a surprise and no damage.

 

[lostcreekranch]

IMHO tank Service Life is greatly affected by moisture in tank. If you drain tank often, especially in humid ares, the tank will last longer. One of our compressors is an early 1970’s vintage Craftsman.

 

[California]

Sharing some thoughts for the casual compressor user:

Re tank corrosion I'm surprised how little water I find when the compressor is in minor use - tires, impact wrench etc. My larger two day prime/paint project (photo - a few of the things painted) put a lot of water into the water trap I had at the downstream end of the hose near the gun, not so much at the compressor. I think the water stays vapor and moves with the air until it cools in the delivery hose.

Back to the thread topic: For the amateur occasional painter like me, I like HF's Industrial Air Filter Regulator (and water trap). But it had HF's usual bs 'leave QC to the user'. It leaked air and water everywhere. I had to take everything apart and re-seal with Teflon tape before it was usable.

I put a little throwaway filter at the gun which accumulated a few drops of water but nothing like the quantity I drained from this trap each day. And HF's $10 spray gun is excellent for non-critical work.

I have my now 10 year old HF compressor over in a corner behind the end of a workbench. So it's unlikely to cause an injury if the bottom of the tank rusts through and fails explosively. I moved it there after reading of someone whose fingers were crushed when he reached under his tank, twisting the drain cock, and the bottom of the tank blew out. And I don't drain at full tank pressure!

I have two other air tanks -20 gallons each - salvaged from classic Craftsman compressors so likely decades old. I put them far away, in a loft above the next barn stall where failure isn't likely to hurt anyone. Then after setting up that huge air reservoir I've never found a use for it so the valve to it remains closed.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

The air tanks on compressors for home and light commercial use are very thin skinned and can become very sharp pieces of shrapnel.. An air tank at 125-150 psi can create enough force to fly through a wall or ceiling, so the danger is all around it. How valuable are the goods around the tank? That is why insurance cos and some local jurisdiction for commercial uses require testing and certification every 2 years. I have seen the results of a water heater going half a block down the road after going though the roof. Not nice.

Ron