Traction Hard to use diff lock

[Lowrider2120]

Not sure why the duplicates but.....

 

[Lowrider2120]

Conversion cost about:

Engine: $620 with coupon
QD plate: $100
Chain and sprockets: $175

I had some steel to make the QD attachments and of course expert welding...free. I paid $500 for the rear snow blower so the entire thing cost about $1,500 and allows the whole thing to be lifted up on the FEL to clean up and take it up to blow snow deeper than 16 - 18". We had one snow of about 28" which required two passes but worked fine. I welded a piece of 2" angle on the bottom of the front edge to keep it out of the rocks and also skids on both sides as well. No problem at all with picking up rocks or dirt.

I bought a 2500 lb remote control winch to control the chute but haven't got around to installing it. I haven't found it a big deal setting the chute to throw to the right and do most of my drive and area between the house and shop (80' x 100') using just the "right" setting. I do sometimes set it straight ahead to move snow in different areas. It's 1.3 miles from the house to US 95 so all the neighbors do their part to clean the road. I clean the 1/4 mile along my property and usually the widow's drive and parking area. Takes about 2 hours to do it with the blower from inside a 70F cab...great improvement over heavy clothes and wet condition on my old Ford...but I do kinda miss it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Lowrider,

I followed this over from another thread. Seems to me your modified blower is worthy of it's own thread. I don't want to hijack this thread further, but I like your modified blower. I'm curious, do you think the 22 hp gas engine is the limiting factor on your ability to blow deeper snow, or is it something else? I would really like to have a loader mounted blower, but trying to resist the whole rear hydro power pack solution.

Thanks.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Hey Slim,

I don't have a clue on how to move this info to another thread.

I ran the blower off my BX1500 which is about 9 PTO hp diesel and it would bog down too. The 22 hp gas engine probably is a more power than the diesel but seems to do the same work. A more powerful engine would certainly throw more snow but it really seems to be a function of tractor speed more than blower capacity. With the hst I can go at whatever is appropriate for conditions and wet snow certainly dictates a slower speed...light fluffy stuff will allow a faster speed. In ND you probably get lighter snow than we do, although it depends upon whether it's off the coast or from Canada which is usually lighter.

Hope that helps and I'd be happy to try to answer any other questions out there.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks for the reply. How about just starting a new thread in the Snow Removal forum? If you hadn't linked to it in another thread I happened to see, I'd have never seen this. I don't go into the Kioti forums, since I don't own one.

Would be good to see the build pics again, and read about the design and implementation of your plans.

Again, I'm interested. And thanks for sharing.

 

[IndyIan]

My diff lock seems to be stiff as well, even at 500 hrs. I can get it in with some effort but its not super easy and takes a few seconds. The only time I want it on for a long time is snow plowing in medium range. If I'm in the mud in low range and only need a second of diff lock, I just apply the brakes which seems to equalize power enough to keep going or spin both rears.

 

[kingofbytes]

My diff lock seems to be stiff as well, even at 500 hrs. I can get it in with some effort but its not super easy and takes a few seconds. The only time I want it on for a long time is snow plowing in medium range. If I'm in the mud in low range and only need a second of diff lock, I just apply the brakes which seems to equalize power enough to keep going or spin both rears.

Never thought of that - will give it a try - my diff lock is far too difficult to press down.

 

[CoyPatton]

Why are you trying to forcibly engage it? Seems it would engage easily in a situation where it is needed, not so much if conditions don't merit it?

Actually this is just the opposite of what you believe should be the case.
A diff lock is a mechanism to lock separate halves of the rear diff to function as a straight axle. This means that internal parts must align for the diff lick to engage (yes a simplification of that internal process).
This means that 1) it is seldom easy to engage 2)turning becomes much more difficult as the rear axle is not free to turn at different rates while engaged.
There should be a very slight amount of free travel on the lever where it should move freely, if it does not, lube the lever where it goes into the tranny. But after this slight free travel, expect resistance. If resistance is not present, something internal is not right.
Part of the reason that it is recommended to make slight turns either or both directions, is so that the rate of turn of the rear wheel axles changes as you turn, this different rate of speed on the rear wheels helps with the internal alignment and engagement.