Traction Hard to use diff lock

[ovrszd]

Oldpath, that is very clever and effective. I would have ne er thought of that concept!!!! Excellent!!

 

[Lowrider2120]

It became apparent that the shorter wheelbase and more narrow tractor may be a big contributor to needing the diff lock more often than with my old 2120. I noticed yesterday that it was fairly common for the tractor to get one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel to be in a higher location than the other two...requiring the diff lock to move ahead. NOW...if it was only easier to use and we had TRUE 4 wheel drive.

 

[Oldpath05]

Oldpath, that is very clever and effective. I would have ne er thought of that concept!!!! Excellent!!

Thanks, everything in the pictures can be unbolted if tractor is sold to someone with a strong foot. It was one of those ten minute ideas in need a quick solution to a problem that I just couldn't take any longer. After I get through the hard places, I turn the knob and within a few ft. the tractor unlocks..

A better solution would be something with by-pass lever action that can be pulled, hard to explain but when this type of lever is pulled, it moves the pedal down to the bottom, then move the lever a little more and it stays in place, I could describe it better if I could find a picture/drawing.

 

[Oldpath05]

It became apparent that the shorter wheelbase and more narrow tractor may be a big contributor to needing the diff lock more often than with my old 2120. I noticed yesterday that it was fairly common for the tractor to get one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel to be in a higher location than the other two...requiring the diff lock to move ahead. NOW...if it was only easier to use and we had TRUE 4 wheel drive.

I think you're right about that, my L3400 has a real short wheel base and the wheels are set at the narrowest, good for get around obstacles but traction is lost. Although I noticed this year since I haven't taken my tire chains yet, that makes a big difference in lost traction, I might leave them on all year.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Chains certainly help. I need to cut down a set for the smaller rear tires on my 3510. If they are wide enough, the front chains are wide enough they might fit the new tractor. Actually, I only used chains when the thaw/freeze season hits and we get snow on top of ice, but I had Ag tires on the Ford and now R4 on the 3510. We'll see how it does next winter. I'm going to mod my rear snow blower to attach to the FEL so it may not need to have "super traction"...heaven forbid I need the diff lock.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Well it's been awhile but I fixed my diff lock by doubling the length by welding on a loop made out of 1/2" rod. It's not perfect but is easier to use and isn't in the way of my feet. Being rounded if I do his it with my left foot it's no big deal.

Also got my rear snow blower attached to a QD plate that takes the place of the bucket on the loader. It's driven by a Honda clone 22 hp from HF and #60 chain and sprockets. The ratio is 5:1 so the engine runs at about 2800rpm and the blower is turned somewhere close to the PTO speed of 540 rpm. Works great with up to 18" of fresh snow moving slowly. 2' is too deep so the routine is to raise the blower up the middle of the snow and make 2 trips thru it. 6-8" is a piece of cake blows it 30 -40' out in the fields.

I gotta say that the front snow blower and heated cab is snow removal bliss!! Some of my neighbors without a cab hate me but they'll get over it...or not.

 

[Amvcane]

Lowrider, any pics of the snowblower mod with the HF engine? Or is the build in a thread somewhere else?
Like the idea and curious what the setup looks like.

 

[katoomed00]

My Ford is smooth as butter. When i think diff lock might be needed i just rest my heel on the pedal. When it is needed i feel the pedal go down under tbe weight of my foot. I remove my foot and it stays down until it decides to unlock They should all work so easy

I do the same on both my TYM T503 and Kubota BX24, don't really press down just rest my heel, as soon as 1 wheel slips the pedal goes down.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Let's see if I can post some pictures...

 

[Lowrider2120]

And again...

 

[Lowrider2120]

Not sure why the duplicates but.....

 

[Lowrider2120]

Conversion cost about:

Engine: $620 with coupon
QD plate: $100
Chain and sprockets: $175

I had some steel to make the QD attachments and of course expert welding...free. I paid $500 for the rear snow blower so the entire thing cost about $1,500 and allows the whole thing to be lifted up on the FEL to clean up and take it up to blow snow deeper than 16 - 18". We had one snow of about 28" which required two passes but worked fine. I welded a piece of 2" angle on the bottom of the front edge to keep it out of the rocks and also skids on both sides as well. No problem at all with picking up rocks or dirt.

I bought a 2500 lb remote control winch to control the chute but haven't got around to installing it. I haven't found it a big deal setting the chute to throw to the right and do most of my drive and area between the house and shop (80' x 100') using just the "right" setting. I do sometimes set it straight ahead to move snow in different areas. It's 1.3 miles from the house to US 95 so all the neighbors do their part to clean the road. I clean the 1/4 mile along my property and usually the widow's drive and parking area. Takes about 2 hours to do it with the blower from inside a 70F cab...great improvement over heavy clothes and wet condition on my old Ford...but I do kinda miss it.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Lowrider,

I followed this over from another thread. Seems to me your modified blower is worthy of it's own thread. I don't want to hijack this thread further, but I like your modified blower. I'm curious, do you think the 22 hp gas engine is the limiting factor on your ability to blow deeper snow, or is it something else? I would really like to have a loader mounted blower, but trying to resist the whole rear hydro power pack solution.

Thanks.

 

[Lowrider2120]

Hey Slim,

I don't have a clue on how to move this info to another thread.

I ran the blower off my BX1500 which is about 9 PTO hp diesel and it would bog down too. The 22 hp gas engine probably is a more power than the diesel but seems to do the same work. A more powerful engine would certainly throw more snow but it really seems to be a function of tractor speed more than blower capacity. With the hst I can go at whatever is appropriate for conditions and wet snow certainly dictates a slower speed...light fluffy stuff will allow a faster speed. In ND you probably get lighter snow than we do, although it depends upon whether it's off the coast or from Canada which is usually lighter.

Hope that helps and I'd be happy to try to answer any other questions out there.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Thanks for the reply. How about just starting a new thread in the Snow Removal forum? If you hadn't linked to it in another thread I happened to see, I'd have never seen this. I don't go into the Kioti forums, since I don't own one.

Would be good to see the build pics again, and read about the design and implementation of your plans.

Again, I'm interested. And thanks for sharing.

 

[IndyIan]

My diff lock seems to be stiff as well, even at 500 hrs. I can get it in with some effort but its not super easy and takes a few seconds. The only time I want it on for a long time is snow plowing in medium range. If I'm in the mud in low range and only need a second of diff lock, I just apply the brakes which seems to equalize power enough to keep going or spin both rears.

 

[kingofbytes]

My diff lock seems to be stiff as well, even at 500 hrs. I can get it in with some effort but its not super easy and takes a few seconds. The only time I want it on for a long time is snow plowing in medium range. If I'm in the mud in low range and only need a second of diff lock, I just apply the brakes which seems to equalize power enough to keep going or spin both rears.

Never thought of that - will give it a try - my diff lock is far too difficult to press down.

 

[CoyPatton]

Why are you trying to forcibly engage it? Seems it would engage easily in a situation where it is needed, not so much if conditions don't merit it?

Actually this is just the opposite of what you believe should be the case.
A diff lock is a mechanism to lock separate halves of the rear diff to function as a straight axle. This means that internal parts must align for the diff lick to engage (yes a simplification of that internal process).
This means that 1) it is seldom easy to engage 2)turning becomes much more difficult as the rear axle is not free to turn at different rates while engaged.
There should be a very slight amount of free travel on the lever where it should move freely, if it does not, lube the lever where it goes into the tranny. But after this slight free travel, expect resistance. If resistance is not present, something internal is not right.
Part of the reason that it is recommended to make slight turns either or both directions, is so that the rate of turn of the rear wheel axles changes as you turn, this different rate of speed on the rear wheels helps with the internal alignment and engagement.