brain55
Veteran Member
I have done some with the Lincore 60-G wire mentioned. It works real well and goes on pretty smoothly.
Brian
There are pictures on here if you look in my history. I'd post a link if I wasn't on my phone.
Hardfacing rods
- Thread starter turbo466
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I have done some with the Lincore 60-G wire mentioned. It works real well and goes on pretty smoothly.
Brian
There are pictures on here if you look in my history. I'd post a link if I wasn't on my phone.
Teikas Dad
Gold Member
That's a good find, they've got smaller 1 lb rolls. With my small tractor I don't think I'd ever go through a 10 or 25 lb spool.
Todd727
Gold Member
Hardface before you wear the bucket. The idea is to keep it from wearing out.
Teikas Dad
Gold Member
OK...I didn't know that! I'm new to this CUT addiction so I've got a lot to learn.
gwdixon
Elite Member
Todd is absolutely correct. Although it doesn't seem to make sense at first glance it is best to apply hardfacing right away.
I took apart both of my tractor tillers' tines when new and hardfaced them right then. Same for the rippers on three box blades when new. After many years being used in rocky/gravelly soil they are very close to what they looked like when new.
Even my three walk-behind tillers have hardfaced edges on the tines. The negative on this is that the HP of the tiller must be enough to drive the thicker blades through the soil. It is probably best to leave the tines alone on a tiller less than 5HP.
HayDR
Veteran Member, Approved Advertiser
When you hardface tines after they are heat-treated you have weaken the tine structure. Companies that want to hardface their tines and using cheaper MG Steel(Chinese). Us Boron Steel and proper heat-treating from the factory and you will not need anything else.If you really need extended wear have them carbide tipped from the factory.
gwdixon
Elite Member
I would be interested to see comparative data on this.
While admittedly heat-treated tines can be weakened with heating, the HAZ when hardfacing is very slight and contained. The extended wear benefits of the hardfacing far outweighs the minor effects of the heating IMO and experience.
radioman
Super Member
just thinking out loud here -- can you hard face the sharpening side of the tines and grind it sharp that side only? Wouldnt this overcome the weakening of tines made up with thickness difference?
I assume you would see the tines break on bigger hp units, but for the subcompacts, will it help with wear and longevity?
I assume you would see the tines break on bigger hp units, but for the subcompacts, will it help with wear and longevity?
gwdixon
Elite Member
>Sharpening hardfacing is not fun. Borite will not even give off sparks as the grinding wheel disappears in front of your eyes.
>The tines are not really "weakened" by hardfacing. Rather they are softened and will bend if the entire tine is heated - but it never is. Only a very thin edge under the hardfacing is affected (HAZ). The hardfacing is stiff enough to hold the edge straight.
My suggestion is to do it yourself and decide. It has worked on my five rototillers' tines (2 tractor, 3 walk behind) and never a broken or bent tine in very rocky soil. This is over 30 years of hardfacing.
To the horror of purists, I also hardface the cutting edge of my 3 rotary cutters with Stoody 31. It can be ground a bit to sharpen the edge. It will chip when hitting rocks but does a fairly good job of staying sharp along the rest of the edge. Flame away safety police.
ladyoreo
New member
There is a new Miller tig welder with some freight damage for sale on ebay and hard wire 50 lb gas sheilding. Ebay charmiam seller or put in Stoody hardface wire 50 lbs on ebay and you will get there. Very good prices. Most rolls of stoody 50 lbs sell for 1200 to 1300 dollars. Very good price. The Tig Welder is brand new with some outside freight damage no big deal and the price is unbeleiveable.