Rake Harley rakes - why so much?

   / Harley rakes - why so much? #31  
MLB, I'll let Rowski speak for himself about the T-8 rake since mine is the Pro 8, but from a functioning point of view, I believe they are going to be very similar with the exception that mine will have a bunch of hydraulic rams on it where as Dereks T-8 is far simpler and of course has the superior studded roller which mine lacks. Should you ever consider one, the T-6 or T-8 is what I would consider, not the Pro model.

The learning curve is a fraction of that with a boxscraper. I rate it right between using a mower and a boxscraper but closer to the mower. The rear gauge wheels see to that.

When mine comes across buried objects that it cannot move it simply rides right over it lifting the 3 pt hitch. It will move as big of a boulder as the tractor can pass over or can physically fit between the 3 pt setup and the ground. That means on mine about a large beach ball boulder when partially submerged.

On my rake, the rollers when spinning make no noise, I cannot hear them at all. Once they engage the ground, the noise level is determined by the debris. It is still very minimal however. When I hit a non movable rock, it shutters. The shutter is simply the roller skipping on the rock and does not do any damage. Even after 10 years, my roller is still in great shape. It has been used extensively in an area around a volcano (Mt Lassen formerly Mt Tehama in N. California) where there are literally millions of rocks. It has performed flawlessly there.

Again, the learning curve I have felt has been grossly exaggerated. I had a little bit more of a curve on my terrain simply because some of the slope is so steep. I found out that I need to pull it uphill for best leveling results. By pulling it, the high and low areas are more effectively dealt with. On the Harley, the gauge wheels are set well behind the rake allowing for superb leveling. I typically make 3 or 4 passes depending on soil conditions. Moist soil is a dream to work with, dry is miserable as its dusty and does not homogenize well. Muddy will work but the rake is less effective. Rat..

P.S. this slope stuff is also where 4WD is a real bonus. I could not imagine doing it on my 2WD tractor.
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #32  
Thanks for all the pictures Derek. I would sure like to have that carbide roller. Maybe after mine is worn a little more. The bars on my bottom roller were about 1 inch tall and now are about 3/4" tall. Is that your new home in the picture?
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #33  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What happens when you hit something it can't pass?)</font>
The rake will just go over it, bounce and shake all over the place. I haven't hit anything that has stopped my forward movement. It was a slip clutch and it will slip when needed.


</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How much (tough question) leveling can it do? The depth of it's "tilling"? Does it drag soil around for low spots? )</font>
I would say just as much as a box blade. But I have never used a standard box blade, so I have not much to compare it too. I think they say it will do 4 to 5 inches. I usually run out of traction. I have it around 2 to 3 inches the first pass and the final pass 1/2". It does a very good job of filling the low spots either with windrowing it or using the end plates.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is it helllaciously loud working that kind of rockiness?)</font>
YES!! I wear hearing protection.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Doesn't it beat the sno* out of the machine in vibrations or impacts or something? )</font>
YES!! That's why they are so rugged. My T-8 weight around 1200lbs.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How long did that take and how much did you charge )</font>
It took about 4 hours. I get $55 per hour. Charged the guy 5 hrs (1 hr travel time) which comes to $275. He wanted to do the "finish" work himself, along the edges, under the decks, around the sewer tank covers etc. If this would have been less rocky 2 to 3 hours.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So what's the learning curve about with these? Seen several references to it taking quite a long time to get good with it. )</font>
As with anything the more you do it the better you get. I've got about 15 hours under my belt running this rake. You do find some in and outs like when to windrow and when to use endplates. I usually make 2 passes, one to level and collect and the other to smooth and dimple the gound for the seed bed. I think its easier than a box blade because of the gauge wheels. Just set your depth and go. I haven't found anything "weird" about the Harley rake yet.
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #34  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Is that your new home in the picture? )</font>

Nope /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. I like log cabins too.
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #35  
Derek, there is indeed a difference in the T-8 and Pro 8 in terms of operation I see. The Pro 8 weighs in at 1500lbs which is why I must have my loader on my little Kubota when using it. The one thing that is really different about the two besides your roller with studs versus my 2 rollers with the bottom roller having horizontal bars is the hydraulic float. I can adjust the roller off the ground to mere fractions of an inch by adjusting the hydraulic roller assembly as well as the top link. It comes in handy for gravel roads and final passes. The gauge wheels add an incredible amount of control making the rake a superb grading tool. Also, my rake is amazingly quiet even in rocky conditions. The studded roller must make the difference. Rat.
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much?
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Man, those REALLY look nice, and so does the result.
I started this thread because I'm laid up with a sore elbow and very sore shoulders after spending two days doing WAY to much HARD handraking on a JOB FROM HELL last week.
Muscle pain I can bounce back from, but joint pain is a whole nother thing. I've got 3 yards to put in this week, and I'm sitting here typing this while it's 70 and sunny out there!!!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
So is the Pro the same basic machine as the T with all the tilt hydraulics added?
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much?
  • Thread Starter
#37  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'm kicking around buying one of these type units.
I just got a card from Deere for low financing on attachments for my SSL and Deere prices are about $ 500-800 more than the company that makes them.
If u got rocks u have to have a way to get them out and the only choices are the powered rake style or the rock hound style.
I know where a used 6' Harley w/ bars on the cylinder for $1500.
I'm looking at ATI preseeder too.
Also like the Preperator for the rock collecting too.
These units will level and screen soil so u can seed afterward.
The ATI and Harley w/ carbide teeth will tear up and level sod and weedy ground too so u don't need primary tillage.
I just picked up 6 more scarifier teeth for a boxblade (my boss gave them to me) so I'm going to build a 85" 9 shank chisel plow to tear up dirt before I rototill.
Them go over w/ 8' rake to pick rocks and then seed. )</font>

Sounds like you could skip the tilling step? What say, you Harley men?
Stay away from that used Harley! The guy is a ripoff! In fact you should send me his name and phone number so "I" can call him and give him a piece of my mind!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #38  
WOW!!! As a life long "Rock Picker Upper", I can tell you that I am impressed with the job shown in the pictures. I have never been around one of these but I am tempted to get one and redo my lawn just to watch this thing work /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif . I can see how one of these would save many hours of back breaking labor.
Thanks for the show and tell pictures.
 
   / Harley rakes - why so much? #39  
I think you need a rock crusher to install driveways after your done with the Harley rake.
 
 

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