Have to buy a welder now

[cp1969]

If you have a lot of scrap steel laying around and have enough time, you can teach yourself on any of them. If you don't, a class might be in order.

Most people want to skip oxy-acetylene welding but I think that is a big mistake. I am puzzled as to why a person would think they can learn TIG welding but not torch welding when they are actually quite similar.

My opinion (others will differ) on the order of acquiring welding equipment would go something like this:

1. O-A torch and cutting head. Medium size is plenty big. Many times you need to heat something, not weld it. You can pretty much do it all with this one piece of equipment if you learn how. Even aluminum can be welded with a torch.

2. Stick welder, preferably ac/dc

3. Mig welder

4. (tie) Tig and/or plasma cutter.

Notice each piece of equipment gets more specialized as you go down the list.

 

[dberry]

Scrap steel? The only scrap steel I have access to is old cars/trucks. The frame and perhaps the leaf springs. I'm not sure what the difference between frame steel and leaf spring steel is, but they both sound like nice mild weldable steel to me.

I've narrowed down my search to a Miller Syncrowave 200 and a Lincoln Precision Tig 225. These are both a bit on the expensive side for me but look like they will handle most anything on the farm. A 3rd alternative is the Miller econotig for a couple hundred less. The econotig won't do AC TIG+P or TIG-P, but I'm not sure what that really means.

The thing I notice that might be nice about the Miller 200 is it is variable from 5-200 amps (vs. econotig that is 30-160). That tells me I might be able to weld really small stuff, or my wife could do decorative stuff.

I realize the red vs. blue arguement is like the ford/chevy/dodge debate. Can anyone clue me in on which might be a tiny bit better? I don't want to buy a cheap welder and have to upgrade later. I'd rather pay a bit more and get something that will last. I intend to use this for the next 20+ years, so a bit more $$ isn't a huge deal. I've read the specs and comparisons on both from both web sites. The Lincoln has some good features I can understand, and the miller has some features I don't really appreciate yet.

I read the comments, and appreciate Thingy's advice about the cheapest stick welder I can find, but it's been my experience that if you buy slightly better and more than you need, you only cry once while paying. The cheaper tools tend to make me cry every time I use them.

Welder, mask, bottles, gas, electrodes, gloves etc. I'm looking at $2500 for a complete kit. Couple hundred higher or lower isn't going to break the bank. Am I missing something?

Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

I picked up a Hobart stickmate xl.. AC only.. 235A.. good cheap unit.

For some more money I could have got the AC/DC version.. thought i don't do enough welding to justify the cost. Hobart is pretty much 'blue' anyway.

Soundguy

I read the comments, and appreciate Thingy's advice about the cheapest stick welder I can find, but it's been my experience that if you buy slightly better and more than you need, you only cry once while paying. The cheaper tools tend to make me cry every time I use them.

Welder, mask, bottles, gas, electrodes, gloves etc. I'm looking at $2500 for a complete kit. Couple hundred higher or lower isn't going to break the bank. Am I missing something?

Thanks!

 

[wushaw]

DBerry, at least you are looking at the good stuff. There is one way to narrow down your choices, go to your local welding supply, if you have more than one go see them all and talk and handle the units they sell and service, see which one fits you best and which welding supply you like since you will be getting gas and some consumables from them.

 

[Ifixcars]

I have the older syncrowave 180sd. It does a nice job for stick welding, and has plenty of power for me. Maybe a tad light on the tig side, but I didn't want to fork out another grand for the 250. The 200 is a nicer unit than my 180, with balance controls, and I think adjustable post flow timer. I know I'm not crazy about my non ajustable post flow, sometimes I don't want to blow 18 seconds of gas after a start. Both machines are better than the tigmate in my opinion. Not that the tigmate is junk or anything, just that I like the Sycrowaves better. The 200 is a nice unit, I don't think you would be dissapointed. Mine welds very well.

 

[Jstpssng]

Scrap steel? The only scrap steel I have access to is old cars/trucks. The frame and perhaps the leaf springs. I'm not sure what the difference between frame steel and leaf spring steel is, but they both sound like nice mild weldable steel to me.
...

You may find the leaf springs a little difficult to weld, as they are hardened and rather brittle. I made a couple ice chisels from spring steel years ago but they didn't come out very well.

 

[mopacman]

You need to use something like tool steel rod to weld a spring which is high doller stuff. Some car frames and farm equipment have a little bit of carbon in them and take a low hydrogen rod. Make sure your welder will run the low hydrogen rod. Larry

 

[Sully2]

I picked up a Hobart stickmate xl.. AC only.. 235A.. good cheap unit.

For some more money I could have got the AC/DC version.. thought i don't do enough welding to justify the cost. Hobart is pretty much 'blue' anyway.

Soundguy

I keep staring at the AC/DC version. Tough machine to beat for the $$$

 

[Soundguy]

I'm sure DC is the 'ticket' for real welders.. which i ain't even close to being.

I have welded with a lincoln ac/dc tombstone at work.. made some ramps for my trailer... I could take it ot leave it. I like my hobart 235ac just as well. I've burnt many a rod on it welding some heavy thick stuff.. 1/2 " in rusty/greasy areas.. with not much way to clean it... having alot of 'buzz' and a 6011 rod makes it happen though... My batwing mower is proof.. the wing hinges broke on one side and I jacke dthem up and buzzed them back on.. been holding for over a year now I guess.. with no signs of cracks.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[California]

Chris (Soundguy) I'm always surprised how my perspective seems to run parallel to yours. I bought an old Wards AC 235 welder, and found that the manual for your modern hobart 235ac is a near-perfect match for explaining its design and how to use it properly. This rig seems to do anything I want.

My latest project was to repair the leg tabs for a cast-iron garden chair and matching table that my wife inherited. A shop told me $90/hour and probably two hours, for the project. He suggested I try some expensive nickel rod ($35/lb). With no cast iron experience at all, I did a fine job on it with my old AC welder , much better than I expected.

I remembered thingy's posts saying grind the welds until no lines remain. I welded, peened, then ground, several times to be sure I had continuous metal. I also was careful to avoid excess heat.

This picture shows the two repaired tabs plus one unbroken leg. The break on each tab was where the nut stressed it. I think the repaired legs are now as strong as the undamaged one.

There must be some application I will need a fancier welder for, but I haven't hit the limits of this one yet.