Having a tuff time installing implements on my CK3510

[Venturabass]

Hi, aside from lubricants I don’t think that is your issue. I have a DK5310. I can’t say for certain but I’m pretty sure the design on yours is very similar to mine. My machine is fully hydrostatic. No PTO clutch and PTO is engaged through an electrohydraulic switch.

With the machine off (again no neutral) the tractors PTO shaft will only have a couple degrees of rotation. Unless it falls in the sweet spot I find it can be very difficult to hook it up.

What I generally do is connect the shaft to the tractor first, and then attach to your implement. At that point has some ability to rotate its shaft by hand. Not saying it’s easy, and if you have some 10’ brush hog it may be difficult to rotate all that mass by hand, but this is what’s worked for me.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

My Branson has PTO neutral so I can rotate it by hand, do you have that option?

 

[Stan B]

CK3510SE here too. No such thing as neutral on our PTOs. I installed an overrunning clutch and it makes the connection so much easier. It also saves wear on the internal PTO brake. Before that I would slip a breaker bar through the u-joint area and use that as a lever to turn the implement.

 

[Bavarian]

The last thing I connect is the top link. That way I have better access to the PTO area.
I can turn the stub at the tractor by hand if the engine is shut down.
Did somebody ever consider using a spanner wrench on the tractor side to turn the stub?

 

[NUTTERDW]

I have tried to connect an implement to the tractor PTO for the first time.

I could not get the attachment to slide onto the PTO. I think it is a subtle alignment issue between the female splines of the implement and the male splines of the tractor PTO.


New PTO powered implements, connecting to new tractor PTO splines are always difficult. Once implement and tractor PTO parts are somewhat worn in, mating becomes easier.

Clean mating parts, lubrication and technique are the keys.

Most here like Eureka Fluid Film as PTO lube. I prefer wax chain lube in an aerosol can.

Grease is too thick.

WD-40 burns off. Shaft goes on "OK" cold but can be difficult to disconnect when hot. WD-40 leaves a sticky fish-oil residue which accumulates.



Connect the implement to the tractor via two Lower Link pins and one Top Link pin. Lift implement hydraulically until implement PTO shaft and tractor PTO spines are perfectly level, one with the other.

Turn tractor engine off, disengage PTO so tractor PTO splines can be turned by hand.

Turn male splines by hand until they align with female shaft indents. Slide shaft onto tractor splines. Retract whatever type of detent you have, button or collar, then push the implement shaft the final two inches onto the tractor PTO stub.

If the PTO shaft and tractor splines are NOT perfectly level it is almost impossible to shove implement shaft on to tractor PTO splines.

I am 74 years old. I can mount implement and connect the PTO on my heavier tractor without too much difficulty in five minutes


Hi folks...took a bit of time and fussing but wanted to update you. PTO connection problem was resolved by leveling the implement to the PTO.

I have two tractors that have the pto shaft activated by hydraulic pressure and they won't turn freely by hand. Only options is to engage the PTO and hope it stops in the right place or turn the implement shaft. When hooking up to a tiller that gets pretty hard.

 

[Kenduro]

Every time I go to hook up a tiller or mower the splines don't match up. I haven't found a way to shift it into neutral. My other tractor can. I called my dealer twice and they never gave me an answer.

On my larger JD orchard tractor (which doesn't have auto PTO engagement) I usually connect to the output shaft after centering and connecting lower draft arms. Two-fold reasons: have more room to get in there before the top link is hooked, and I can hold the driveline more level to improve visibility, OK 3, its also easier to spin the driveshaft to line up splines on implement than it is to spin a heavy 10 foot reel mower and try to reach back to the tractor output, which is harder to access and see, plus will often spin with the driveshaft even before the splines are engaged. What really helps is blocking the rear portion of the mower before removal, giving you a more level starting point when next reconnect. Also having a properly sized bunggee cord (or rope) to suspend the driveline while you position the top link.

 

[Williy]

When you park your tiller put some blocks under it so the tines
move freely and then you can rotate the shaft with no problem
for a hookup!

willy

 

[bdhsfz6]

Another trick to easing PTO shaft coupling is to use these when the PTO isn't in use.

Pardon Our Interruption...

A spline cover keeps dirt out which can make shaft installation difficult.

 

[Molalla1]

Another trick is to have a tractor for each implement one has .

 

[Williy]

Check tractor supply they have them also

willy

 

[zzvyb6]

This should be easy & obvious! Buy another tractor and commit one to each implement. Me, personally, I'd buy 2 more just in case tractoring became more fun now.

 

[bigtiller]

Another trick to easing PTO shaft coupling is to use these when the PTO isn't in use.

Pardon Our Interruption...

A spline cover keeps dirt out which can make shaft installation difficult.

Thanks for the link.

I asked my dealer for a mid-pto shaft protector like that a month ago. Two people there had no luck finding a Deere part in their books computer.

Your link gave me the proper words for an eventual successful search for a Deere part number.

I ordered it, received it the next day and it fits perfectly.

 

[workinonit]

Another trick is to have a tractor for each implement one has .

Around here we use Farmall 140s for garden cultivating and some use them to prepare the soil for planting. I have a neighbor that believes in your philosophy. He has 19 of them at last count and uses each one for a different function.

 

[Bob_Young]

I have a similar problem. I can get the splines matched up and the coupler slid part-way on but I can't get it to move forward and latch. The tractor is a new L3902, the implement is a new Woods BB60.30 rotary cutter.

The latching collar takes a LOT of force to slide back and it has to slide back square to get all three latching balls to drop out of the way of the PTO stub's splines. Trouble is, that once you get the collar slid back correctly (using both hands) you can't hold it in position with one hand while the other hand tries to move the shaft forward against the rearward force being exerted on the collar. The result, of course, is that one of the latching balls pops up enough to hit a spline and block forward motion.

This brush cutter has been on this tractor once before. It took almost an hour to get the splines lined up and another 45 to get it to latch. Suddenly it just worked, don't know why.

Yesterday the splines got lined up in 15 or 20 minutes, but I never got it to latch. Tried grease and motor oil on both male and female parts of the coupler to no effect. I've got an 11' batwing Woods cutter with a really heavy shaft that's easy compared to this.

This brings me to a question: why couldn't the collar that must be pulled rearward to retract the latching balls, instead be made so it has to be pushed forward? Removal might be a little tougher, but it would seem easier to deal with.

 

[K5lwq]

I have a similar problem. I can get the splines matched up and the coupler slid part-way on but I can't get it to move forward and latch. The tractor is a new L3902, the implement is a new Woods BB60.30 rotary cutter.

The latching collar takes a LOT of force to slide back and it has to slide back square to get all three latching balls to drop out of the way of the PTO stub's splines. Trouble is, that once you get the collar slid back correctly (using both hands) you can't hold it in position with one hand while the other hand tries to move the shaft forward against the rearward force being exerted on the collar. The result, of course, is that one of the latching balls pops up enough to hit a spline and block forward motion.

This brush cutter has been on this tractor once before. It took almost an hour to get the splines lined up and another 45 to get it to latch. Suddenly it just worked, don't know why.

Yesterday the splines got lined up in 15 or 20 minutes, but I never got it to latch. Tried grease and motor oil on both male and female parts of the coupler to no effect. I've got an 11' batwing Woods cutter with a really heavy shaft that's easy compared to this.

This brings me to a question: why couldn't the collar that must be pulled rearward to retract the latching balls, instead be made so it has to be pushed forward? Removal might be a little tougher, but it would seem easier to deal with.

Here is something to try. Don’t worry about pulling the collar back to begin with. Just line up the splines and push the coupler till it stops because of the balls. Now with both hands, one on each side of the coupler, place your thumbs behind the coupler and the rest of your fingers in front of the collar. Now squeeze while pushing with your thumbs till the balls are on the shaft.

As soon as the balls are on the shaft stop fighting trying to hold the collar back, just relax and let go. Now you can simply push the shaft the rest of the way on till the balls fall in the grove. Then pull back on the shaft to make sure it is latched and you are good to go.

You only have to squeeze the collar back for just a second for to get the balls to go on and that is it. Hope that helps.

 

[Bob_Young]

I'll give that a try. Thanks for the tip.

 

[rodneyn]

I'll give that a try. Thanks for the tip.

Typically I always shut off tractor before attaching implements to PTO. This allows me to rotate the tractor’s Pto shaft to position I need. Now I will be the first to admit the 1000 RPM splined shaft for MMM with retractable collar is most un friendly connection since splines are far smaller than 540 RPM shaft. I need my sons help to connect this pto yoke, one aligns then one retracts collar after few choice words and arm stretches to reach to the center of tractor underneath we get on for another year. I feel your pain. However 540 shaft is fairly straightforward when tractor is shut off no issues on implement pto shaft installation I can rotate by hand for alignment, my unit has neutral position lever allowing rotation with e-clutch.

 

[Bob_Young]

The L3902's PTO shaft appears to lock when the PTO is turned off and stays locked when the tractor is off. PTO brake or something. The PTO stays free or can turn 90 deg. on my other Kubotas(to my recollection), don't know why the 3902 is different. Maybe because I haven't destroyed the brake yet.

Luckily the BB60.30 shaft can be turned by hand to get spline alignment. Would be easier if I raised it out of the grass.

 

[bigtiller]

I will be the first to admit the 1000 RPM splined shaft for MMM with retractable collar is most un friendly connection since splines are far smaller than 540 RPM shaft. I need my sons help to connect this pto yoke, one aligns then one retracts collar after few choice words and arm stretches to reach to the center of tractor underneath we get on for another year.

I am the same way, but my boys aren't nearby to help.

That is why I bought a second tractor, so I don't have to crawl under it anymore.

The front pto extension will never come off.

 

[rodneyn]

I am the same way, but my boys aren't nearby to help.

That is why I bought a second tractor, so I don't have to crawl under it anymore.

The front pto extension will never come off.

I bought two more but one is dedicated to mowing and one has backhoe. The third one I can mount any implements I desire to attach. Unfortunately changing MMM blades on the first is a necessity not like old hay bine that has on board sharpener.