Haying with compact tractor

[SwingOak]

Well if things go as planned this unit will be with me soon.:thumbsup:

Wow! Looks expensive!

 

[powerscol]

Compared to my other low HP choices and the cost to rebuild this is a steal. This unit has had under 10K of bales through it, will fit the small fields, and I can get local parts and service. My tractor can run it. I want to be baling, not fixing things. Cost is reasonable - under 8K. I believe it also has the moisture electronics included.

 

[msch2112]

My new NH 5060 is just dying to throw its first bale.


Mike

 

[SwingOak]

Just picked up a NH 256 rake. It needs a little work on the driveline but it was a good deal.

 

[SwingOak]

Tested the Haybine on some old tall dead grass, and it worked like a champ. I still want to replace the knives as I don't think it will work as well on green and growing stuff. The baler knitters also worked great. I think I'll sharpen the piston knife and top off the main gearbox but otherwise it looks like I'm ready to make some hay.

 

[powerscol]

Well my new to me Hesston 4550 baler is parked out front. I hooked it up and ran it up to speed. Runs very quiet and only a slight rock (forward and back) to the tractor. Once I have it completely cleaned and a few rust spots painted I will give it a test run. Overall it is in excellent shape. Dealer forgot to do part of the service, but will cover the cost if I cant do it myself. Delivery man went through it with me. They are making it up to me.

One question, do you folks oil the drive chains or not. I don't have the manual yet, so I don't know what it says. He recommended not to as dirt collected in the oil would wear the chain faster.

I was also able to get the parts needed to bring my new to me Ford 503 3pt rack back together. I had a welding shop fix the stripper and pull the rusted bearings, and frozen caster wheels. I don't think I did too bad with the $300 price and $200 in parts and labor. Now to reassemble.....fun

 

[SwingOak]

I lubed the chains on the Haybine with a spray-on chain lube that goes on wet but supposedly rejects dirt and dust. We shall see. I will probably not lube the timing chains that drive the knotters on the baler.

 

[KEEPBALINTX]

Drum mowers while not requiring much HP are VERY heavy for their size of cut. Make sure your tractor can handle that. I've got a 6'3" SFI drum mower that is 995 lbs. but cuts great. I can drive 8 mph. cut 10 acres in 2.5 hours

Jeff

My Massey Ferguson 124 baler (small squares, two-twine) would work with your tractor. The recommended pto hp is 34, but these balers have been run with much smaller tractors like a Farmall Super A that has about 17 hp (pto). These balers weigh in at 3000 lb so you'll be OK on level ground which is what I suppose you have in your subdivision. My 124 has both a slip clutch and an overrunning clutch (sprag clutch) on the baler itself. You can still get parts from Agco which owns the MF brand. The knotters on the 124 are called SureTie knotters and are somewhat simpler in design than the JD and NH knotters.



Haying 120 acres is quite a chore. If it were my job, I'd look for a drum mower which can cut much faster than a sicklebar, does not clog like a sicklebar, and is a lot simpler to setup and service. You can get a brand new 5-ft drum mower for $3K or so. When you're finished you can sell it and get your money back.

Good luck

 

[powerscol]

Well to all the naysayers I can only post this. Tractor handled the load fine. needed the full 540 RPM near max throttle. Rocking motion was not bad. used ow range, but probably could have used mid range as I did for clean up.

Equipment used to bale:
IH 1300 sickle mower - 9' bar
Rebuilt Ford 503 side delivery rake
Hesston 4550 baler - current model is MF 1835 I think.

 

[SwingOak]

I just finished rebuilding the driveline on my rake, and wrapped up putting fresh knives and a new bushing in the cutter bar tonight. Ready to mow again, if it will ever stop raining! I have about 1/2 an acre of clover that has been double rinsed since I dropped it on Sunday.