Head Gasket Replacement on my Kubota
- Thread starter RobJ
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RobJ
Elite Member
Ifixcars said:
haven't done this so far, but when it has whistled on me a couple times so I know it is running hot. I also know that when I first put the temp gauge on it was running cooler. Funny it seemed to happen over a period when I was cutting deer trailes in the bottom. No real hard work.
OP
RobJ
Elite Member
FaC said:
I have a new one that I just haven't put on yet,, the current one seems ok and it does not have the spring in it. If you notice in some of the pics I did replace the upper and bypass. I was in a hurry and and didn't replace it.
I did check the thermostat today, slowly opens at about 75c. It's marked at 71c. Eventually it does open all the way. Still was weird after running it the first time for 12+ minutes and I had hot water on top to hot to touch and nothing was being pulled through the bottom hose yet. With the small radiator I would think it would only take 30 seconds for the pump to displace the water in it. It's only a gallon or so when I drained it.
51Hudson
New member
Hi Rob,
I am doing the same to my Kubota diesel. When I bought her she was blowing smoke, and it was sweet smelling, so I knew this was the head gasket. But when you gave it half throttle, there is a abnormal banging coming from the engine. Did you also have the same problem as me?
Thanks Paul
I am doing the same to my Kubota diesel. When I bought her she was blowing smoke, and it was sweet smelling, so I knew this was the head gasket. But when you gave it half throttle, there is a abnormal banging coming from the engine. Did you also have the same problem as me?
Thanks Paul
Dieseldude06331
New member
Hi Rob,
I have an L2500 that is doing almost the same as yours was. I have pulled the radiator, flow checked it, pulled off the water pump, like new inside, replaced the thermostat, (the old one worked fine in pot of water on the stove) adjusted the fan belt, replaced the temp sending unit, shot all over the motor with a laser thermometer gun, getting readings around 210. Tractor has never over heated but keeps creaping closer to the red. It used to come right down below the 12 o'clock position at an idle, now it just goes hotter and hotter, never over heats but only goes down to about 1 o'clock when running at full load. never really cools down.
I read all of your posts and dont see that you came to a resolution to your trouble. Did you ever get it squared away? what did you find?
Please get back to me i am really at a loss on this and no one has had any advice that i have not tried yet, or have not already done. I dont want to just keep dumping money into this either! The new water pump that i did not need was more than enough unneeded expense
Thanks
Eric
I have an L2500 that is doing almost the same as yours was. I have pulled the radiator, flow checked it, pulled off the water pump, like new inside, replaced the thermostat, (the old one worked fine in pot of water on the stove) adjusted the fan belt, replaced the temp sending unit, shot all over the motor with a laser thermometer gun, getting readings around 210. Tractor has never over heated but keeps creaping closer to the red. It used to come right down below the 12 o'clock position at an idle, now it just goes hotter and hotter, never over heats but only goes down to about 1 o'clock when running at full load. never really cools down.
I read all of your posts and dont see that you came to a resolution to your trouble. Did you ever get it squared away? what did you find?
Please get back to me i am really at a loss on this and no one has had any advice that i have not tried yet, or have not already done. I dont want to just keep dumping money into this either! The new water pump that i did not need was more than enough unneeded expense
Thanks
Eric
crazyal
Super Member
You can test for a blown head gasket with a simple radiator pressure tester. I think Autozone loans them out.
Eric, you probably already did this, but it's worth mentioning anyway for anyone else reading this... be sure the external radiator core is clean and free of dirt and chaff. That stuff builds up and needs to be washed out periodically, particularly if you mow with the tractor. I've found an air hose does not get the job done, you need to carefully flush it with water.
ultrarunner
Epic Contributor
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2004
- Messages
- 28,590
- Tractor
- Cat D3, Deere 110 TLB, Kubota BX23 and L3800 and RTV900 with restored 1948 Deere M, 1949 Farmall Cub, 1953 Ford Jubliee and 1957 Ford 740 Row Crop, Craftsman Mower, Deere 350C Dozer 50 assorted vehicles from 1905 to 2006
I carefully would monitor the temp gauge on my D3 Dozer...
It would always be the same and if it started to creep up all I needed to do was carefully wash the dirt and dust from the radiator fins and then it was back to normal.
Many tractors have reverse air flow so the outside of the radiator may look fine and the engine compartment side is obstructed.
It would always be the same and if it started to creep up all I needed to do was carefully wash the dirt and dust from the radiator fins and then it was back to normal.
Many tractors have reverse air flow so the outside of the radiator may look fine and the engine compartment side is obstructed.
pdowling1
Silver Member
I agree with ultrarunner - clean your radiator thoroughly.
