head gasket.........(sheesh)

   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #1  

stormpetrel

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 16, 2010
Messages
353
Location
Block Island R.I.
Tractor
ym2210D
After getting the engine running nice and cool, AND watching it like a hawk, checking temperature with a thermometer after running it each and every time...... I noticed a distinct "exhaust-y" noise yesterday. It seemed like it was less smooth; it was easier to tell by this new sound that the engine was two cylinders.

I fired her up this morning, checked the overflow bottle, and noticed bubbles!!!:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

I guess I know what the next project on the tractor will be !!:confused2:

I'm worried that since the blown head gasket was caused by overheating, the head may be warped. What are the chances of that? Can I check for it reliably myself? Or do I need to take the head to a machine shop?

I also need to know what other gaskets or parts I should need to do the job. Also, how much time can I reasonably expect to take to do the job? Half a day or so?

Thanks in advance for your help:)
Steve
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #2  
Take it to a shop. The one I did was cracked between the valves. That happens not a lot but it happens.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #3  
A good engine machine shop can flush and clean the head, check the valve guides and seats as well as resurface the head if needed. Takes care of several things all at one time.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #4  
A good engine machine shop can flush and clean the head, check the valve guides and seats as well as resurface the head if needed. Takes care of several things all at one time.

I agree with Gary, spend the extra and get the head checked out. Should be less than $150 unless of course head is cracked. If you put it back together and found out there was problem with head. then you would have to purchase a new head gasket which it alone isn't cheap.

As far as time involved in tearing it down and putting it back together. Less than a day if you are not waiting on parts or work from machine shop.

I suggest taking radiator in and having flow/pressure test done on it since you experienced over heating. $25-$35 at a local radiator shop.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks guys, sounds like good advice. Aside from overheating (which it hasn't done since cleaning the fluff out of the radiator), is there any danger to the engine running with the blown head gasket? I didn't notice any loss of power, and the engine temp never got above 160 after working her for a couple of hours. The only thing that clued me in was the funny exhaust note; if it hadn't of been for that, I wouldn't have looked for bubbles in the bottle.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #6  
When you turn off the engine and 1 of the cylinders is at the down stroke, it will fill up with coolant which is uncompressable. When you go to start it, it will more than likely bend your rod or something else terrible.

DO NOT RUN IT LIKE THIS is my recommendation.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #7  
I agree with kyle. Not a good idea to run it. Water in oil, oil in water, not a good mix either. If it is leaking, it can only get worse, not better. :thumbsup:
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #8  
If anyone tells you to try Stop Leak easy fix in a Bottle then RUN !!!!!! I have seen more problems most likely caused by it then it helps.It will clog up some small holes alright. In your Radiator :ashamed:

Carey
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#9  
If anyone tells you to try Stop Leak easy fix in a Bottle then RUN !!!!!! I have seen more problems most likely caused by it then it helps.It will clog up some small holes alright. In your Radiator :ashamed:

Carey

Funny you should mention that Carey.....I just finished filling the cylinders with stop leak!!! NOT!!!!!:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing:

I don't have a repair manual for the engine. Do I need one? Seems like the engine's awfully simple. Except for the torque specs, do I really need one?
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #10  
when I replaced my head gasket I took the head to a machine shop to check for cracks and warpage,I also had new springs put in it.Not sure what your tractor is but in my 1610d I had to take the water pump off so I needed a new gasket for that and also valve cover gasket.While I had it tore down I went ahead and took the radiator to a shop and had it rooded and cored and put new hoses on.To me a manuel was helpful especially when setting the valves and torquing the head bolts.Forget to say I bought new head bolts after reading here the old ones stretch when torqued. russ
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#11  
when I replaced my head gasket I took the head to a machine shop to check for cracks and warpage,I also had new springs put in it.Not sure what your tractor is but in my 1610d I had to take the water pump off so I needed a new gasket for that and also valve cover gasket.While I had it tore down I went ahead and took the radiator to a shop and had it rooded and cored and put new hoses on.To me a manuel was helpful especially when setting the valves and torquing the head bolts.Forget to say I bought new head bolts after reading here the old ones stretch when torqued. russ

Thanks, very helpful. I guess it's better not to be in too big a rush........do it once. :D

This would be a good place for Aaron from Hoye Tractor to chime in.......
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #12  
Yes pleeeeeease dont ever use torque to yield bolts more than once... If they are torqued properly then they stretch effectively applying force. After use they are significantly weakened. There was another thread where a poor chap refitted his entire head only to have the last head bolt snap upon the final re torqing. Alot of extra work and potential failure to save probably 30-40 bucks :ashamed:. Jmho. Good luck.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #13  
When you turn off the engine and 1 of the cylinders is at the down stroke, it will fill up with coolant which is uncompressable. When you go to start it, it will more than likely bend your rod or something else terrible.
... or shatter a piston.

If you have to run it, spin it for a while using the compression release, to blow the water out.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#14  
... or shatter a piston.

If you have to run it, spin it for a while using the compression release, to blow the water out.

Love it!! You'd do well here in swamp yankee country:thumbsup:

And.......are you SURE I can't use this: $30 Head Gasket Repair? Coolant compatible! Permanent Seal. Easy 3-Steps No flush, leave-it-in. www.Seal-A-Head
:)
 
Last edited:
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #15  
Since these Yanmars are designed for running half-submerged in rice paddies, I expect the compression release is standard equipment to recover from "Oops that was deeper than I expected" incidents. :D
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #16  
The Water jackets in the head and block are pretty large. You probably wont plug anything in it up. But it could restrict you radiator more than it is. Chances are overheating already could have been what caused the blown head gasket originally, if the head it self is not cracked. So probably worst thing that could happen is it not work and plug your radiator. Then you would replace head gasket and radiator. So if your ok with that. Any Better result would be worth trying I guess.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #17  
So, . . you are convinced you have a blown head gasket because of a "distinct "exhaust-y" noise"? Weren't you convinced you had one when you first got the tractor? How much water have you actually had to replace?
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#18  
So, . . you are convinced you have a blown head gasket because of a "distinct "exhaust-y" noise"? Weren't you convinced you had one when you first got the tractor? How much water have you actually had to replace?

It's the bubbly bottle that has me convinced. The new sound of the engine got me concerned, so I checked and........bubbles!!!:mad:

I had some overheating, which was caused by vegetable matter clogging the radiator.......it's sort of ironic that the head gasket went after the engine was running cool, not while it was running hot.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh) #19  
With the engine completely cold, remove the radiator cap and start it up. check for bubbles in the radiator, (not the bottle), while still cold. Bubbles there = combustion leakage.
 
   / head gasket.........(sheesh)
  • Thread Starter
#20  
With the engine completely cold, remove the radiator cap and start it up. check for bubbles in the radiator, (not the bottle), while still cold. Bubbles there = combustion leakage.

I'll do it.........soon. I had bubbles in the bottle right after I started it; that's why I think it's the head gasket. Along with that certain noise change...........:confused:
 

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