Heater Hoses in tractor Cab ?????

[PILOON]

When I installed my heater I did as many mechanics do.
I 'burped' my system by repeatedly squishing the hoses by hand.
Doing that sort of pumps the coolant thru the lines.
My heater is top right side cab mounted and burping worked just fine for me.

 

[CCWKen]

@nvr-enuf - Take that Tee out of there or you'll never get any heat to the heater core. All/most of the heated coolant is going straight through the tee and won't be shared with the heater core. And ditto on not using PVC.

 

[KennyV]

CCWKen has the correct answer... Hook up AT the water pump bypass Do Not T into it..., remove the bypass hose and connect the heater supply And return to the connections you removed the hose from. You will then have full flow of Hot coolant to your heater core instead of some or none.

 

[CDennyRun]

Mike-

I am building a cab similar to yours and I was planning on placing the heater cores near my feet (see attached pics). Doing it the way you described would seem to create a situation where your head is dripping sweat and your feet are frozen.

That's a great redneck way of getting by with minimal cost. When I eventually build my cab, I'll probably do something similar to this. I'd fab a good solid guard for it, as I'm a pretty clumsy guy, and would wreck that thing way fast with my boots! Thanks for the pics!

Chris

 

[CCWKen]

Personally, I'd put in a bypass valve too. Either as part of the heat/AC controls or a stand alone manual bypass. I wouldn't want hot coolant passing through the core during summer.

 

[KennyV]

Personally, I'd put in a bypass valve too. Either as part of the heat/AC controls or a stand alone manual bypass. I wouldn't want hot coolant passing through the core during summer.

Simply put the Original bypass hose back on for summer use, and leave the heater hoses disconnected till Next winter, quick easy and no additional cost.except a few ounces of coolant.

 

[RickB]

Simply put the Original bypass hose back on for summer use, and leave the heater hoses disconnected till Next winter, quick easy and no additional cost.except a few ounces of coolant.

Is that something you would actually do yourself, or is it just a good idea for somebody else?

I prefer a quarter turn ball valve in a heater hose. positive shutoff, no dicking around with coolant and connections twice a year.

 

[chim]

Mine has 3 valves. One is in each heater connection and one in a bypass line that can be opened to short circuit the water when heat isn't wanted. For warm weather the two valves below the heater are closed and the bypass is open. In cold weather the two below the heater are opened and the bypass is closed. There have been times when I wanted just a little heat and ran with all 3 valves open.

My cab is in sections for easier removal and I did remove it the first Summer after it was completed, but not since then. That required disconnecting the hoses above the valves. No big deal and not much coolant was lost.

 

[CCWKen]

I was talking about the 4-port automotive type heater bypass/control valve used on many vehicles. You can get them in electric, vacuum and mechanical operated versions. The 4-port just makes a loop in the in/out ports on the engine side so the path of coolant returns to normal. You don't have to remove hoses. And, you don't want to just insert a single valve on one hose to stop circulation.

Google "heater bypass valve" and switch to Images. You'll see a slew of different versions.

 

[KennyV]

Is that something you would actually do yourself, or is it just a good idea for somebody else?

I prefer a quarter turn ball valve in a heater hose. positive shutoff, no dicking around with coolant and connections twice a year.

Can Not do it with just a Single shut off... It is in the bypass circuit of the water pump, you would need to complete the path for summer use...
And Yes I have been doing that on my 4 cylinder kubota diesel powered ZTR for years, takes only a couple of min, not a big problem simple and almost Instant heat... KennyV