Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed

   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #31  
Good Evening,
Will be following closely ! I have the same size shed but as of right now not insulated! I like the mini split idea but looking for something more economical!
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #32  
The oil filled radiators heaters are priced from $45 to $100 at Walmart. No fumes, no tanks, plug them in, set temp, and no worries.
Even though the oil filled electric radiator heaters are convenient and provide a nice soft heat everyone should be aware that they are no more or less efficient than any other electric heater. All electric heaters are 100% efficient, meaning all the electricity they consume is turned into heat, starting with the cord.
It seems that the one of cheapest clean solutions is a direct vent propane heater. But that depends on the price of propane compared to electricity. Where I live propane costs about the same as electricity.
Where I live I would probably go with the electric heater unless I needed to heat the space fast. Then I would go with direct vent propane. Or maybe one of the diesel heaters mentioned.
Eric
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #33  
Even though the oil filled electric radiator heaters are convenient and provide a nice soft heat everyone should be aware that they are no more or less efficient than any other electric heater. All electric heaters are 100% efficient, meaning all the electricity they consume is turned into heat, starting with the cord.
It seems that the one of cheapest clean solutions is a direct vent propane heater. But that depends on the price of propane compared to electricity. Where I live propane costs about the same as electricity.
Where I live I would probably go with the electric heater unless I needed to heat the space fast. Then I would go with direct vent propane. Or maybe one of the diesel heaters mentioned.
Eric
wwwwwell

Some produce some light as well, which yes when it's finally absorbed it results in heat, but you could say "it's a different kind of heat".

The radiator almost entirely heats via conduction the air around it (plus a very small amount of black-body radiation), while a radiant heater is putting a lot of energy out as infrared radiation, which heats what it hits - the side of your body facing a radiant heater will get hot, the back will stay cold, though your motorcycle across the room will possibly get warm too if it's in view.
Everything near the radiator type will get warm sooner, things farther away will take longer.

So while both resistive electric heaters (a radiant heater and a conductive heater) do put the same amount of heat out per energy used, they behave - and feel - very different, and for some purposes one may feel warmer than the other, and that should factor into the "efficiency".

(personally I like the air to be at least a certain temperature if I'm not working hard, and then having the sensation of warmth - from sitting in sunlight or being in the direction a radiant heater is pointing - makes me feel warm, even if I'm barely getting heated by it - a combination of small-ish heaters can be pretty effective)
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #34  
i have a ventless propane wall heater at my hunting cabin and have used it for over 20 yrs its cheap and heats the 28x36 cabin very well
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #35  
Good Evening,
Will be following closely ! I have the same size shed but as of right now not insulated! I like the mini split idea but looking for something more economical!
Insulate it would be my first priority.
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #36  
Another consideration about heat source - if it's not vented outside, like the typical kerosene and many propane heaters, you increase the humidity inside, and increase the likelihood of condesation.
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #37  
The combustion byproducts have to go somewhere. Used to be that the manuals for vent free heaters said you needed to crack a window open for operation. I haven't looked at one recently to see what they say today.
 
   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #38  
I heat my 12x20 Tuff Shed with an electric space heater. Kept it at 50F and stored my motorcycle there all winter. The shed is fully insulated, sheathed and wired.

What could be easier than just plugging in a space heater and setting the required temperature.
 
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   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #39  
I had one of the kerosene jet engine looking heaters and it worked OK, it requires a special thermostat and you can buy a liquid product that will eliminate the smell. I wouldn't recommend it but it worked OK.
Be careful with portable kerosene heaters. If they are not vented, they will be putting CO (carbon monoxide) into the room. That's a problem, because it combines more readily with your red blood cells than O2 (oxygen). Meaning that even if you have O2 in the room, you can easily get CO poisoning.

They also have a propane jet engine looking heater my friend had one and it was pretty loud but did a good job.
An unvented propane heater is a step up in safety from a Kerosene heater. The byproducts of a properly functioning propane heater are CO2 (Carbon Dioxide) and water vapor. CO2 is not great, but is less hazardous than CO. In addition, most heaters designed for indoor use have an oxygen depletion sensor, which will shut the heater down if the CO2 concentration rises to near unsafe levels.

I have both a "torpedo" type propane heater (which as you noted is rather loud), and a "Big Buddy" propane heater. I prefer the Big Buddy, since it's quiet, and will run even if the power is out, so useful for freeze protection in a power outage. I run it with an adapter off of a 20# propane tank, rather than the little canisters that fit in its internal compartments.

The drawbacks of an unvented propane heater:
  1. Even with an oxygen depletion sensor, you need to be aware of CO2 issues (I crack two windows in my shop when running it for ventilation.)
  2. Since one of the byproducts of propane combustion is water vapor, you can build up a lot of moisture in the room when running the heater hard. I got to the point where my walls were dripping on a couple of occasions.

You can also buy a 120VAC 11,000 BTU window AC unit with a reverse heat pump, I had another friend who had one in a detached shop about the same size shop as yours.

If I was going to buy something today I would buy the AC unit with the heat pump. It is quiet works pretty quick and is an all season unit. If WIFI you can remote start a short time before going to the shop.
I did not realize they made portable window units that were heat pumps that worked for heating as well as AC. I may have to look in to one of those. I looked at permanently installed mini-split heat pumps, but never made the jump for two reasons:
  1. I was concerned about how frequently sawdust from various woodworking projects would clog it up
  2. I have yet to find one with a setting that will turn down low enough in heat mode. I'd like to be able to set for 45˚F when the space is not in use just to protect from freezing. Most won't go below 55˚.
________________

Our shop is 24'x26' with 10' high ceilings. It is VERY well sealed and insulated. We had 6" of insulating foam sprayed in the walls, and at least that much in the ceiling before putting up the sheet rock.

We currently heat it with two electric space heaters. One is the oil filled radiator style with three heat settings (600, 900, and 1500 Watt) with a thermostat control. The thermostat is not calibrated, but after a while I figured out where to put it so it will come on at 45˚F as a "freeze-protect" mode. Works well, since sawdust accumulation from various wood working projects don't phase it. If it does get a coating of sawdust, a quick blast from the air compressor takes care of it. Once the room is up to temperature, we can generally get by with just this one to maintain a comfortable level unless it is really cold out. (that might be a stretch for most workshops of this size, but this one is tight and well insulated enough that it does OK enough till the outside temperature really drops.)

The other heater is one of those old "milkhouse heaters" with electric resistance heating coils. We use this as a booster to warm the room up more quickly, and as extra heat when it gets really cold out. It also has an uncalibrated thermostat. When the shop is not in use, I usually set it to come on at a bit lower temperature than our oil-filled heater as a back up.
 
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   / Heating 12 by 20 Insulated Shed #40  
Surprised to see no one's mentioned a woodstove yet. That's what I use in my garage/shop...does pretty well to about 20 or so, below that takes so long to warm it up that I've lost interest in whatever project I was gonna work on. :rolleyes:
If you have a lot of downed branches, pine or other softwoods, etc. it won't cost anything to run.
 

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