Heating the garage

   / Heating the garage #11  
I keep my garage (18X24) at a comfortable working temperature - meaning if you're not working, your not comfortable. I use a cheap 220V space heater until the wood stove kicks in. It's just warm enough to take the chill off the tools.
 
   / Heating the garage #12  
Ever thought about radiant heat. My neighbor built a 24’x36’ shop/garage about a year ago and installed radiant heat in the slab. Hot water source is a LP water heater.

I was really skeptical about it, but man it’s nice. Even heat throughout the shop, no cold or hot spots.

Of course, you have to make sure you insulate real well.

The price of these systems has come down dramatically in the last few years.

Jim
 
   / Heating the garage #13  
Alan - I went with the Modine Hot Dawg heater. I have a 65,000 btu unit in my 26x40 barn(15 ft ceiling). They are compact, only 18" tall, no flame, and small 3" type B vent(uses outside air). I paid around $500 for mine.

I liked it so much I bought another one for my combination 19x24 garage/ 16x36 shop. This time I went with a 45,000btu unit. It is only 12" tall which is perfect for the 8' ceilings. This one was around $400. Chuck
 
   / Heating the garage #14  
Alan - Did he choose not to tell you about the Hot Dawg?? What type was he quoting at $1500?? I can't believe I did that good on my pricing of a unit heater. Chuck
 
   / Heating the garage #15  
One other point to consider, if you get into wood working with machines, be careful. Wood dust or any other dust for that matter, is explosive when it comes in contact with an open flame.
 
   / Heating the garage #16  
Alan, if you use any type of unvented heater, kerosene, radiant propane, etc, beware that the byproduct is CO and WATER. If your equipment is cold, when you heat up the barn/garage really quickly, everything gets wet from condensation. You may want to look at this in two parts. Many folks here are putting PE tubing or copper pipe in the floor, (with insulation under it like many new house constructions) and then heating the water (preferably antifreeze) with a regular residential water heater (read cheap) equipped with a pump. They're setting these so that the garage stays well above the outside temp but not necessary as warm as you might want for extended work. THEN, when you want it really warm, add your forced air, LP or kerosene, vented or not, to get the final heat boost. Only problem is, you have to put the tubing or pipe (tubing is easier and cheaper) and insulation in before you pour the concrete floor.
 
   / Heating the garage #17  
Where can I get details on this type of heat???
 
   / Heating the garage #18  
Bo,

If you do a web search on in-floor radiant heating, you'll get a ton of hits.

Jim
 
   / Heating the garage #19  
You might want to check out this <A target="_blank" HREF=http://talk.agriculture.com/default.sph/agTopTalk.class?FNC=goToGroupMain__Atoptalkindex_html___265> Agriculture Online Shop Talk</A> site. I recall reading a lot of postings there about various ways to heat shops of different sizes and the pro's and con's of each. It's a pretty neat site with good people posting.

One word of caution, though. Don't mention the size of your tractor there. All those guys run tractors with HP in the triple digits. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2025 K4525 UNUSED Double Garage Steel Barn (A53117)
2025 K4525 UNUSED...
2012 Crane Carrier Low Entry T/A Rear Loader Garbage Truck (A51692)
2012 Crane Carrier...
ITEM LOCATION (A53084)
ITEM LOCATION (A53084)
CUSHMAN HAULER PRO GAS GOLF CART (A51406)
CUSHMAN HAULER PRO...
3/16Th Plate Steel (A52377)
3/16Th Plate Steel...
Hose Reel (A53424)
Hose Reel (A53424)
 
Top