All the sales rep said, "was I'd need at least 50,000 BTU and to call him back when the building was done." I had all the specs but he said to wait until the building was done. I asked for a quote and I got between $1500-$2000 for the heater. Didn't seem real interested to me. Sometimes it seems unless your building a home or doing a large system they really don't want to waste there time. Just my read!!! Thanks for your reply. It really put me in the right ball park. Take care
Heating the garage
- Thread starter alan40
- Start date
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kokopelli2
Gold Member
alan i cannot tell you the best way to heat your garage but i can telly that if you add some ceiling fans in there you will greatly increase the speed in which you heat of the space. not only that but it would save you money on heating in the long run. they are a very cheap way to increase your efficentcy....just remember buy Hunter!
Hi Von, Thanks for the reply. Your system sounds just like the Hot Dawg system from Modeni. The one big thing I like is no open flame. Going to try and make a few simple chairs and book cases for the house this winter so don't want to much sawdust flying around a open flame. Von Jr. all signed up for hockey? There starting there push here now. Take care!
Wingnut
Veteran Member
KI remember seeing that type of heating in a shop in Alberta ... seemed very efficient.
Any idea on costs? Their web site is very careful not to mention any ....
Any idea on costs? Their web site is very careful not to mention any ....
DVerbarg
Platinum Member
Radiant floor heat is great but does not adjust quickly. We have radiant floor heat in our garage and keep the garage set at 55 degrees for the entire winter and it feels great working in there. If I know that I want to spend hours working in the garage I will set the thermostat a little higher and it takes about an hour for the temp to begin to noticably adjust.
That heat radiating off the floor sure melts the snow and ice off the vehicles real quick. You can lie directly on the floor without getting that cold feeling. (Also works great for basement heating too!)
We have one boiler that is shared for both the garage and basement so don't have a real accurate idea of how much it takes to heat but would venture that it is less then $20.
That heat radiating off the floor sure melts the snow and ice off the vehicles real quick. You can lie directly on the floor without getting that cold feeling. (Also works great for basement heating too!)
We have one boiler that is shared for both the garage and basement so don't have a real accurate idea of how much it takes to heat but would venture that it is less then $20.
patrickg
Veteran Member
As you noticed, asking this kind of question gets as many answers as questions like how high is up or how long is a roll of string. DocHeb was RIGHT ON THE MARK when he suggested radiant heat. Aye Cap'n I cannow change the laws of physics, the shields won't hold and we'll lose containment. I truly love in floor hydronic heat but it isn't fast and requires that you heat the space to be used basically all the time in heating season. In floor hydronic is a lot like a heated swimming pool, extremely comfortable but not something you can do on the spur of the moment when you need to fix something. That might be just the ticket if you are going to spend a lot of time laying on the floor and don't mind the expense of constant heating. Infloor hydronic might save a few percent compared to other continuous heating systems but for an intermittent need, nothing will beat the comfort or cost of other radiant systems.
I have a just barely insulated drafty 70x35 metal shop building with a propane forced air heater suspended on chains. I don't have a tankconnected to it and have never fired it up. I have a few propane powered radiant heaters that "shine" a beam of IR to where I am working. I also have one of those big mushroom shaped propane heaters like you see on resturant patios. I tilt it 20-30 degrees to put its radiant "footprint" more to one side. All these heaters are portable and can be moved around as needed. I like the radiant heat because I can work without gloves in air that is so cold I can see my breath.
I am not familiar with brand names but a propane (or natural gas) fired heater with a blower to put air in with the injected gas where all combustion is inside an extended pipe that eventually transitions to an exhaust flue and provides almost pure radiant heat, these I have seen in operation and if I needed a true "on demand" shirt sleeve environment this is what I would want. The ones I have seen have an extended "linear" parabolic cross section reflector to direct the IR. Since they use a blower to provide combustion air it should be real easy to segregate the combustion air from the heated room's air, i.e. all combustion air would come from outside the building and all exhaust would go outside. No fumes, no draft/negative pressure problems and ZERO explosive hazard in a dusty environment.
This system doesn't have to be super efficient to be cost effective because it doens't heat the space ALL the time. Lots of folks like the vent free heaters but it creates a sutuation where YOU are living in the chimney. Some folks have bad reactions to the emissions. Im my opinion those devices are for intermitent use with a window open since they compete with you for oxygen and fill the room with lots of humidity as someone previously stated.
Patrick
I have a just barely insulated drafty 70x35 metal shop building with a propane forced air heater suspended on chains. I don't have a tankconnected to it and have never fired it up. I have a few propane powered radiant heaters that "shine" a beam of IR to where I am working. I also have one of those big mushroom shaped propane heaters like you see on resturant patios. I tilt it 20-30 degrees to put its radiant "footprint" more to one side. All these heaters are portable and can be moved around as needed. I like the radiant heat because I can work without gloves in air that is so cold I can see my breath.
I am not familiar with brand names but a propane (or natural gas) fired heater with a blower to put air in with the injected gas where all combustion is inside an extended pipe that eventually transitions to an exhaust flue and provides almost pure radiant heat, these I have seen in operation and if I needed a true "on demand" shirt sleeve environment this is what I would want. The ones I have seen have an extended "linear" parabolic cross section reflector to direct the IR. Since they use a blower to provide combustion air it should be real easy to segregate the combustion air from the heated room's air, i.e. all combustion air would come from outside the building and all exhaust would go outside. No fumes, no draft/negative pressure problems and ZERO explosive hazard in a dusty environment.
This system doesn't have to be super efficient to be cost effective because it doens't heat the space ALL the time. Lots of folks like the vent free heaters but it creates a sutuation where YOU are living in the chimney. Some folks have bad reactions to the emissions. Im my opinion those devices are for intermitent use with a window open since they compete with you for oxygen and fill the room with lots of humidity as someone previously stated.
Patrick
Von
Veteran Member, Advertiser
Al, Here is a photo of the heaters I have in the shop. The top one is upstairs and the other is in the basement. I haven't used the one downstairs since the day I put it up, but its there if I need it. I got it for free so I'm only out the pipe if I never use it. I don't think you will can make that much dust in a shop that size to make an explosion with a sander. So I wouldn't worry about an open flame. I only worry about it when I am spraying or painting. So thats why I don't want a pilot lite for the heater. I just turn off the heat when I am spraying. I got both of mine used and saved a bundle, so shop around there are many out there for sale used. Von is already playing hockey, and has been skating for the past 3 days in a row. So the season is here.
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Doug_Smith
New member
Al, If you are looking for the cheap, go to a salvage yard and retrieve and old home forced air furnace (NG). All you need is power for the fan and a little fuel and your in buisness. If it can keep an entire house warm, it will surly heat up a little ole barn.
Cheap guy,
Doug
Cheap guy,
Doug
Hi Patrickg, your right!!!! Ask a broad open question and get alot of various answers. All of which are greatly appreciated. I like your idea of moving the heat source around and I do it in my two car garage with a kerosene heater. Haven't had much experance with radinant heat so your post was very informative.
Have a great day!!!
Have a great day!!!
