Help - 2610 won't start, suspect Voltage Regulator

[Jackbax]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, still baffled

Mark,
Try running a voltage drop test on both battery cables. You just put one lead of the meter on the positive battery post and the other lead to the large stud on the solenoid and have someone try and crank the tractor, if the meter reads over 1 volt, replace the cable. This works the same on the ground side, just read from the negative post to the bolt where the cable is tied to the frame. This checks the resistance of the cable under the full load of the starter and is the quickest way of checking for corosion where the cable ends crimp to the cable.

Jack

 

[Soundguy]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, suspect bendix

So when you hit the starter switch, the voltage doesn't appreciably drop? And the same when you jump across the solenoid terminals...odd

Just For kicks.. try disconnecting the power to the starter, and try jumping it just from another battery directly to the starter to see if it turns over.

Also, to check the solenoid, disconnect both the incoming and outgoing power cables.. all that should be left is a small wire for activating the solenoid. Have someone help you on this on. Ok, hit the starter switch, and have you meter set to measure volts.. check from that little wire to ground.. when the starter switch is hit.. you should read voltage, to energize the solenoid. If you don't.. then you need to check that wire, etc.
If you do, then that is good. Next, set you meter to measure ohms, or continuity. put the leads on the big studs.. one on each side of the solenoid. Just sitting there you should read infinit ohms.. that is, no connection. When the starter key is hit, you should immediatly drop down very close to 0, if not 0 ohms. If you do, then the solenois good..

Sounds like you may have a few different problems going on at once.

Soundguy

 

[Tractor_Tim]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, still baffled

All of the above are good ideas. With my experience with larger diesel engines I am thinking that the starter has a dead spot or has shorted out. You can remove the starter and take two battery cables the each post of the starter to see if it turns on its own. (Remeber ++ --) (you can do this from a different battery to ensure that it is not your battery causing the problems) If the starter turns over then it is wiring on your tractor or the battery. If it does not then turn the starter over by hand or with a screw driver to move the internal workings to a different spot. Then try with your battery again. If this does not work then take it to your local electrical automotive rebuilder and have your starter checked out or rebuilt as that I am sure it would be more economical than a new one. Also note that taking a reading on your battery may not always indicate that it is weak, it may carry no load (amps) but it may recover quickly to show you voltage. I hope this helps.

 

[DavidJ]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, still baffled

You've gotten lots of good advice here, so I'll just add one thing. I had a car once that developed an intermittent short in the positive battery cable where it passed the frame and would short out at the oddest times. It was pain to find but would act like you're describing.

 

[mtimber]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, ruled out battery

Need to take a break from the tractor. Ruled out the battery and connections at battery terminals (I disconnected the tractor battery and connected tractor directly to my truck battery with truck running, but still had exactly same symptoms, except I had higher voltages since the truck alternator was adding voltage.) Tried directly connecting battery to the starter and the starter did spin unlike the usual click/clunk I had been getting. Should this be the case that the starter would just spin or should this have actually turned over the tractor? Another odd thing was that while I had the lead from the pos batt term and the lead to the ignition switch disconnected from the bendix post I checked voltages. It showed approx 2V between the pos battery lead and the wire that leads to the starter. It would actually show about 2.2V and slowly drop back to 2V with the ignition switch turned off. When I turned ignition switch to on, the voltage between these wires went to 12.7V, the same as the voltage between batt terms. This didn't seem right to me, as if I have a grounding prob somewhere (or a short in the ignition switch itself). Any more suggestions?

Thanks

 

[YanmarFever]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, ruled out battery

Mark
If it helps, I have a 2610-D here for a while if you need me to compare wiring ,numbers,or what ever ?
We are changing the rear axle seal on it (2610-D)
What a nightmare getting the rear axle back on track inside the outer tube, lining up the splines was a job for a man with a mustache!
maybe thats why it took 2 of us? (no mustaches) /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
Ernie <><

 

[Soundguy]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, ruled out battery

Well, if you actually got the starter to spin by hooking it up directly via jumper cables to another battery, then you might be able to rule out the starter.. however the next thing you need to check is the bendix/solenoid.. that sounds like it may be toast.

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start, suspect Voltage Regulator

Oh yeah. to check the solenoid/bendix, disconnect the wire fromt he ignition switch that runs it, and try the jumper cable test again, only this time hook up the jumper cableas with the negative one to the starter for ground, and the positive one to the place the battery cable would be attatched. Then take a short jumper wire and wire over from the positive jumper cable to the solenoid activation post.. that will test the solenoid and then let you see if the starter spins up..

If this si still installed on the tractor, and not on a bench,.... then make sure you are in neutral.. so you don't run yourself over..

Soundguy

 

[mtimber]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start

Thanks for all the help fellas. I was able to get the tractor started yesterday by connecting the two battery terminals to the starter. Took a couple of trys but it turned over. I have ruled out the battery and the starter. I'll have to do some more testing to pinpoint the problem. Could be a combination of the bendix, ignition switch or a short/grounding problem somewhere. The charge light on the dash stayed lit after the tractor was running yesterday - I can't remember if this is the way it is supposed to function or not - I thought I recalled it going off after the tractor started. Also, the turn signals were working last night but the headlights would not come on while the tractor was running. Some of the symptoms are leading me to believe it is a short in the ignition switch. The tractor spends a lot of time outside and I leave a key in the ignition (other than theft, is this a bad idea for switch life?)

Another thing that leads me to think there is a short in the ignition is something I wrote in a post yesterday:

"Another odd thing was that while I had the lead from the pos batt term and the lead to the ignition switch disconnected from the bendix post I checked voltages. It showed approx 2V between the pos battery lead and the wire that leads to the starter. It would actually show about 2.2V and slowly drop back to 2V with the ignition switch turned off. When I turned ignition switch to on, the voltage between these wires went to 12.7V, the same as the voltage between batt terms. This didn't seem right to me, as if I have a grounding prob somewhere (or a short in the ignition switch itself)."

Shouldn't the voltage across these wires be zero when the ignition is off? Pos batt term connected to an open circuit? Again, I'm thinking a short in the ignition switch. This would explain the way this first started - tractor was fine, went in the house for lunch and there was a short rain, tractor wouldn't start.

Again, thanks everyone for all the help and thanks for any additional comments.

Mark

 

[Inspector507]

Re: Help - 2610 won\'t start

Mark,
Sounds like it COULD be the switch, but I'm wondering about the "clunk/click" when trying to start it before....??