Help building a Snow plow blade for FEL

[shaley]

Anybody have any profile shape drawings for a snow plow blade. Thought I'd have the web/ribs NC plasma cut and then roll a blade out of 10 gauge. Put it on a quick-tach plate for the FEL. Any suggestion appreciated as well.

 

[Travelover]

I'd build it so it pivots forward with a trip spring. Otherwise you can rack the FEL if you hit an immovable object.

 

[ovrszd]

If building specifically for snow, it would have shoes to run on and would have sides like a Box Blade. Without sides or the ability to angle I think you are gonna be disappointed in it's productivity. Without shoes you will struggle to keep it from gouging, especially if the ground isn't frozen.

Here's a good example. Even has a blade across the top/front edge to use for back dragging.

ANBO Attachments -Site Plow Extreme

 

[shaley]

I thought I'd use a double acting cylinder from the rear remotes for angle. Use a set of Meyer skid shoes for height on parking lots and roads. I'll make it trip just like the truck mounted units. Isn't there an optimum shape for the blade curature so it will toss snow to the side?

 

[s219]

All the plows I have seen appear to have a constant radius curve shape. I'd have to measure an actual plow to figure out the radius of curvature though. That's probably your best bet -- find a plow and measure it up.

 

[Sportsman762]

Most of the blades I see are a consistent radius. However the high speed blades used on the interstate and at airports have a smaller radius at the top to help throw the snow. Also you could design the plow trip two ways. Most light duty plows the whole blade trips, however on some of the high end plows only the edge of the blade trips. This allows you to keep pushing snow until you are over the obstacle (manhole) without dumping your load.

if you decide to make the blade a standard trip, I would consider purchasing a used snow blade of your desired width and using it as a bases for your snow plow build. You could add additional ribs, and build a custom turn table for it while still being money ahead.

Here is a company that makes several variations of snow plows and should help get your creative juices flowing.
https://www.wausau-everest.com/markets/municipal-equipment/reversible-snowplows1

 

[ovrszd]

I spent some time on google and couldn't find a "standard" curvature formula for a blade. Lot of discussion about use and speed. The MODOT trucks around here have blades with a pretty substantial curvature designed into their blades. They also have a hinged thick rubber shield hanging across the top of the blade to keep snow dust from blurring their vision.

I've got an old Meyer blade that doesn't have much curvature, sorry it's not here to take a photo. I've also got a front blade for my JD2210, it doesn't have much curvature either. The JD road grader I run has a 27" high moldboard with a substantial curvature. It works great pushing snow at 15-18 mph with little snow coming over the top unless in very deep snow.

I would agree with Sportsman762, you can probably buy a used snow blade and rebuild it cheaper than starting from scratch. But I also understand the desire to do it yourself.

I'll try to find some pics of blades I'm familiar with for reference.

 

[Hivoltage98]

I bought a used Meyers plow for 150$ and am currently in the process of connecting it to the hydraulics on the tractor. I bought rebuild kits for the angle cylinders and just rebuilt them. I am using a winch for up and down right now but have a cylinder setup I'm planning to implement soon as soon as all the parts come in.

 

[shaley]

That's part of the problem. We aren't in the snow belt so anything used is still about $2000. Maybe you can tell me how far the trip pivot is above the bottom of the cutting edge. I'm using about 4" in my design so far.

 

[ovrszd]

Wish I had my old blade here. I think it's closer to 6". Your frame is going to be running at a height similar to that pivot point. At 4" your frame is going to be awfully low to the ground??

For example, the pivot pins on my little 54" John Deere front blade is 5" above the cutting edge.