help deciding what size tractor

[trekkar]

Started looking at tractors and realized I don't know where to begin.

I have about 5 acres that will need to be bush hogged, and piles of stumps/brush/trees/rocks to move. It was recently cleared and leveled with an excavator but not perfectly graded with a dozer to give you an idea. Eventually would like the 4 acres to be grass/hay field. It's pretty rough right now with old roots and rocks in places. Also the land is a 5 acre rectangle and drops about 60 feet in elevation over a 500 foot distance, 7 degrees? Some wet areas so I do want 4x4.

So how much tractor do I need? Would like a cab and I'm guessing 6 foot bush hog that would take a few hours to cut? I have a 1500 foot gravel driveway that will need repair. Will a tractor have the power and lifting capacity to drive into a log/tree pile like a skid steer with a grapple?

I'd buy any color but if kioti,massey,mahindra,ls,yanmar turns out to be a couple grand less than a kubota on say a 40k tractor I'd probably go kubota. If it was maybe 5k or more savings than maybe not. I have not got an idea on all the prices. Most of the websites it looks like you need to get a quote. Definitely not as easy as truck shopping.

I saw a 2013 7060 with around 700 hours for 38k I think on the kubota website tractor/loader is about 50k msrp. I'm guessing that will be enough tractor but would a 35hp 30 pto hp work too? I'd rather buy used but if I went new is there a kubota dealer where they give the most discount off MSRP? I think I heard barlow before. If buying new I'd drive a day away to get the best deal. Even knowing I may not get great warranty service from a local dealer.

 

[Hay Dude]

Started looking at tractors and realized I don't know where to begin.

I have about 5 acres that will need to be bush hogged, and piles of stumps/brush/trees/rocks to move. It was recently cleared and leveled with an excavator but not perfectly graded with a dozer to give you an idea. Eventually would like the 4 acres to be grass/hay field. It's pretty rough right now with old roots and rocks in places. Also the land is a 5 acre rectangle and drops about 60 feet in elevation over a 500 foot distance, 7 degrees? Some wet areas so I do want 4x4.

So how much tractor do I need? Would like a cab and I'm guessing 6 foot bush hog that would take a few hours to cut? I have a 1500 foot gravel driveway that will need repair. Will a tractor have the power and lifting capacity to drive into a log/tree pile like a skid steer with a grapple?

I'd buy any color but if kioti,massey,mahindra,ls,yanmar turns out to be a couple grand less than a kubota on say a 40k tractor I'd probably go kubota. If it was maybe 5k or more savings than maybe not. I have not got an idea on all the prices. Most of the websites it looks like you need to get a quote. Definitely not as easy as truck shopping.

I saw a 2013 7060 with around 700 hours for 38k I think on the kubota website tractor/loader is about 50k msrp. I'm guessing that will be enough tractor but would a 35hp 30 pto hp work too? I'd rather buy used but if I went new is there a kubota dealer where they give the most discount off MSRP? I think I heard barlow before. If buying new I'd drive a day away to get the best deal. Even knowing I may not get great warranty service from a local dealer.


View attachment 656078

Buy a clean, used pre tier4 tractor. That way you avoid all the dpf nonsense, and get a simpler tractor. The savings will also allow you to step up in power and have money left for attachments.
I had a Kubota M7060, if thats what youre referring to. Thats a 60hp tractor. Much much more of a tractor than a 35HP tractor. If its a hydraulic reverser, its an excellent machine. 2013 may still be pre tier 4. Be sure to check. Little on the big side for 4 acres, but it will tackle the initial work list you described. If its too big once the rough work is done, you can sell it and downsize into more of a smaller property maintenance machine. Pre tier 4 hold their value very well.

 

[fried1765]

Buy a clean, used pre tier4 tractor. That way you avoid all the dpf nonsense, and get a simpler tractor. The savings will also allow you to step up in power and have money left for attachments.
I had a Kubota M7060, if thats what youre referring to. Thats a 70hp tractor. Much much more of a tractor than a 35HP tractor. If its a hydraulic reverser, its an excellent machine. 2013 may still be pre tier 4. Be sure to check. Little on the big side for 4 acres, but it will tackle the initial work list you described. If its too big once the rough work is done, you can sell it and downsize into more of a smaller property maintenance machine. Pre tier 4 hold their value very well.

^^^^^^EXCELLENT ADVICE !!!!
If you do consider a Kubota, Messick's is within a few hours of you, and they are GREAT people to deal with.
I live well East of you, have never visited Messick's, but buy any and all Ford/Kubota parts from them (UPS or USPS)

If at all possible, pre Tier IV is DEFINITELY the way to go!
Size ???
As Jeff9366, here on TBN, so often states: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR!

 

[trekkar]

Thanks for the quick reply, when you say hydraulic reverser is that the HST transmission or something else? Yes it was a kubota M7060. The MX5400 with cab,hst, and loader,bucket MSRP is 42k. 55hp and 46 pto hp.

would something this small work?
214 Yanmar 32HP Tractor w/Backhoe/loader - heavy equipment - by...

 

[trekkar]

^^^^^^EXCELLENT ADVICE !!!!
If you do consider a Kubota, Messick's is within a few hours of you, and they are GREAT people to deal with.
I live well East of you, have never visited Messick's, but buy any and all Ford/Kubota parts from them (UPS or USPS)

If at all possible, pre Tier IV is DEFINITELY the way to go!
Size ???
As Jeff9366, here on TBN, so often states: BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR!

Thanks for info, I'll definitely try to find the pre IV and look into Messicks

 

[caver]

My regret on the first tractor I bought was loaded lift capacity. I'm at a 40HP Kioti and it's a keeper.

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks for the quick reply, when you say hydraulic reverser is that the HST transmission or something else? Yes it was a kubota M7060. The MX5400 with cab,hst, and loader,bucket MSRP is 42k. 55hp and 46 pto hp.

would something this small work?
214 Yanmar 32HP Tractor w/Backhoe/loader - heavy equipment - by...

HST is a hydrostatic. Not available on an M7060. Thats not what I’m referring to here. A M7060 with hydraulic reverser is the optional wet clutch transmission, which is preferred over the standard reverser dry clutch transmission. It lasts longer and is tougher.
The MX5400 is a fine tractor, too. Id prefer an M7060 with hydraulic reverser though.

 

[fried1765]

Thanks for the quick reply, when you say hydraulic reverser is that the HST transmission or something else? Yes it was a kubota M7060. The MX5400 with cab,hst, and loader,bucket MSRP is 42k. 55hp and 46 pto hp.

would something this small work?
214 Yanmar 32HP Tractor w/Backhoe/loader - heavy equipment - by...

In my opinion .....too small!
I have a 32HP Ford FEL, and a 48HP Kubota TLB.
The Ford is my little "play tractor".
BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR !!!

 

[jeff9366]

What is your total acreage? You have referenced pieces but not total acreage.

As I read your opening post, you have five (5) open acres. What is the rest?





The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor weight is more important identifying compact tractor capability than tractor horsepower.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

To cut through clutter I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs. I have a column for cost per pound.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" wider rear axle substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Larger wheels and tires yield more tractive power pulling ground contact implements and logs, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

 

[dusty3030]

If I were you and looking at what you are wanting to do I'd get a compact track loader with a bucket and a root grapple first then a tractor later.
Better at whipping your cut over into shape. I would look for a used one with 1,000 or so hours or less with a cab.

Honestly for mowing 5 acres if you can get it smooth enough a zero turn mower will mow faster than anything else.

If it's still rough and you aren't mowing very often you can find 2wd no loader used tractors all day long in the 25 to 35 hp range in good shape as well as 5 foot cutters that would be just fine for keeping 5 acres clipped.

 

[jeff9366]

I have about 5 acres that need to be bush hogged.
Would like a cab and I'm guessing 6 foot bush hog that would take a few hours to cut?
So how much tractor do I need?

A six foot Bush Hog cutting moderate length dry grass requires forty-five tractor horsepower.

A six foot Bush Hog cutting long grass or light-medium brush requires a fifty tractor horsepower.

As you have hills and desire a 800 pound cab, I recommend at least a fifty horsepower tractor.

A six foot Bush Hog cuts around 2-1/2 acres of grass per hour, mowing flat land, probably two acres of grass per hour with your hills.

 

[jeff9366]

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower. Tier IV began phasing in during 2009, retail conversion was almost complete in 2013 when I bought my 'Tier IV' Kubota L3560. Old news in 2020.

Compact tractors used in residential applications such as lawn mowing, gardening and landscaping average sixty (60) engine hours of use per year. Tier IV tractors regenerate about once every sixty engine hours.

That is ONE regeneration per YEAR. Regeneration takes about sixteen minutes.

The earth is not flat. The sky has not fallen. New tractor sales continue apace.

If you decide on a pre Tier IV tractor it will have to be pre-2013.

I for one appreciate today's cleaner burning diesel engines.


MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...mpact-tractor-diesel-particulate-filters.html

 

[trekkar]

Tier IV emission standards require tractor manufacturers to add or revise pollution reduction technology on new tractors generating over 19 kW power = 25.4794 horsepower. Tier IV began phasing in during 2009, retail conversion was almost complete in 2013 when I bought my 'Tier IV' Kubota L3560. Old news in 2020.

Compact tractors used in residential applications such as lawn mowing, gardening and landscaping average sixty (60) engine hours of use per year. Tier IV tractors regenerate about once every sixty engine hours.

That is ONE regeneration per YEAR. Regeneration takes about sixteen minutes.

The earth is not flat. The sky has not fallen. New tractor sales continue apace.

If you decide on a pre Tier IV tractor it will have to be pre-2013.

I for one appreciate today's cleaner burning diesel engines.


MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...mpact-tractor-diesel-particulate-filters.html

thanks Jeff, I remember reading part of that thread yesterday. I'd like an older tractor primarily to save money but I'm not going to a spend a few grand less to get a 10-15 year old tractor with 500-1000 hours on it just for the lack of emissions. I would probably take my chances with new unless it's a pretty good savings

 

[trekkar]

A six foot Bush Hog cutting moderate length dry grass requires forty-five tractor horsepower.

A six foot Bush Hog cutting long grass or light-medium brush requires a fifty tractor horsepower.

As you have hills and desire a 800 pound cab, I recommend at least a fifty horsepower tractor.

A six foot Bush Hog cuts around 2-1/2 acres of grass per hour, mowing flat land, probably two acres of grass per hour with your hills.

Ok cool, so I have an idea on what size would be good, thanks

 

[trekkar]

In my opinion .....too small!
I have a 32HP Ford FEL, and a 48HP Kubota TLB.
The Ford is my little "play tractor".
BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR !!!

Thanks, looks like your right, I was in the past looking for L48 or l45 but ever since getting lyme diesease I can't take the heat/dust diesel fumes anymore so I think I really need a cab

 

[trekkar]

What is your total acreage? You have referenced pieces but not total acreage.

As I read your opening post, you have five (5) open acres. What is the rest?





The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor weight is more important identifying compact tractor capability than tractor horsepower.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Bare tractor weight is a fundamental tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used. Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range.

To cut through clutter I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs. I have a column for cost per pound.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after seven years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" wider rear axle substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Larger wheels and tires yield more tractive power pulling ground contact implements and logs, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

When considering a tractor purchase, bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

Thanks, Only about 7 acres but almost 1 is the driveway area 50 ft by 1500. Looks like I got a lot research to do on weight of the different tractors. When looking for a mini excavator that's pretty much how I would start the process by weight.

 

[trekkar]

If I were you and looking at what you are wanting to do I'd get a compact track loader with a bucket and a root grapple first then a tractor later.
Better at whipping your cut over into shape. I would look for a used one with 1,000 or so hours or less with a cab.

Honestly for mowing 5 acres if you can get it smooth enough a zero turn mower will mow faster than anything else.

If it's still rough and you aren't mowing very often you can find 2wd no loader used tractors all day long in the 25 to 35 hp range in good shape as well as 5 foot cutters that would be just fine for keeping 5 acres clipped.

That looks like a good idea too. The track loader would be really nice but I have looked in the past and it seems hard to find a decent one not beat up. That would be good to go with a mini excavator and a zero turn if I was able to get it that nice.

 

[Hay Dude]

thanks Jeff, I remember reading part of that thread yesterday. I'd like an older tractor primarily to save money but I'm not going to a spend a few grand less to get a 10-15 year old tractor with 500-1000 hours on it just for the lack of emissions. I would probably take my chances with new unless it's a pretty good savings

Think that over carefully. 500-1000 hours with reasonable care is nothing. I cut 300 acres of hay 2 times a year, bush hog, spread topsoil, push fallen trees and plow snow with tractors that old. Every day I知 grateful they don稚 have emissions. They don稚 belch out any black smoke like is being dramatized by some folks. They burn very clean. There痴 a reason they are so sought after. You have to ask yourself why are the latest non emission tractors so popular among everyone from the small hobby farmer up to large commercial and agricultural users.
Your money, your land your tractor, of course and I realize the temptation of new. It痴 all factored in to the equation. Not saying a new tractor wouldn稚 be nice, but that emissions system is a very expensive added cost. If it were my choice, Id want to spend that chunk of money on an attachment and get a more capable unit.
Weight is another good point. Small tractor, small weight and to a degree, could be less safe. Id want to be in a cab with AC and some size/weight underneath my backside. Then you can lift more and be more comfortable. Youll probably end up with a wider more stable stance on hilly ground because axles will be wider.

 

[jeff9366]

Thanks, Only about 7 acres but almost 1 is the driveway area 50 ft by 1500. Looks like I got a lot research to do on weight of the different tractors. When looking for a mini excavator that's pretty much how I would start the process by weight.

I will simplify your research: 3,700 pounds or more, bare tractor weight.

VIDEO: *New* Kubota MX6 & MX54 Utility-Compact Tractor - YouTube


Few cab tractors will pass under an 84" garage door header.

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks for the quick reply, when you say hydraulic reverser is that the HST transmission or something else? Yes it was a kubota M7060. The MX5400 with cab,hst, and loader,bucket MSRP is 42k. 55hp and 46 pto hp.

would something this small work?
214 Yanmar 32HP Tractor w/Backhoe/loader - heavy equipment - by...

This is a hydraulic reverser controller