HELP - I'm trashing 3- point attachments!

[southfork40]

I have a new JD 5055D, and since I have started using it I have bent the A-Frames on an old Dearborn plow and a new Frontier disk harrow. It seems like the toplink want to constantly twist or torque hard to the left (facing the rear) as I am using the implement. Eventually, the A-frame can't take the stress and bends. Never saw anything like this with the 8n, and I have tried adjusting the lift arms and top link every which way...

Anybody else ever have this happen?

Could the draft control have something to do with it? I have tried it with and without draft engaged...

 

[bcp]

I've seen it happen from turning with the implement still in the ground. Maybe you were doing it with the 8N, too, but it wasn't powerful enough to bend the hitch.

Bruce

 

[Cpjlube]

Maybe the implements are too small. I have Seen smaller things trashed by using a more powerful tractors. Isnt that a 50hp machine? A two bottom Dearborn could be broken if not used carefully by that tractor. And I agree with the previous poster. What worked with the smaller 8n might not work with a bigger tractor. The 8n runs out of power to turn, pull etc. the big tractor keeps going and stresses the implement.

Chuck

 

[boggen]

looking at specs the JD 5055D = category 2 3pt hitch. vs 8N that has a category 1 3pt hitch.

John Deere 5055D Utility Tractor 5D/5E Series Utility Tractors JohnDeere.com

category 2 3pt hitch implements are heavier duty. and pulling a cat 1 behind a cat 2 tractor can spell disaster quickly more so with ground engaging equipment.

a cat 1 3pt bush hog (rotatory cutter), cat 1 PHD (post hole digger), cat 1 finishing mower. you most likely be ok.
well take that back cat 1 3pt bush hog. the cheap economical version may not hold up and quickly be destroyed, but heavier duty cat 1 3pt bush hog for industrial use may hold up fairly good. double check gear box rating, and make sure you have a good clutch or shear pin in the PTO shaft.

3pt plow, 3pt ripper, 3pt rear blade, 3pt box blade, 3pt land plane. 3pt disc. if they are cat 1. vs cat 2. you may quickly tear them all up. if used behind the 5055D

below link might help you some by clicking the "recommend attachments" for tractor.
John Deere 5055D Attachments - Specs

Three-point hitch - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

looking at tractordata.com the 5050D is double in pretty much everything in specs in regards to the old 8n.
TractorData.com Ford 8N tractor information

 

[imgone52]

Are the lift arms pinned to limit side drift? Also, is the top link vibrating and turning outward creating more rear down pressure. You may need a stop nut on the third (top) link. Just a couple of thoughts.

 

[LD1]

I think you need bigger implements as well. The 5055 is WAY more machine than an 8n. Twice the power, twice the weight and larger tires probabally means about triple the pulling ability.

As to the toplink, the only way lengthening it puts more downpressure is if the back of an implement wasnt touching to begin with. Or you lengthen it far enough that only the back of the implement touches. Otherwise, the toplink doesnt add or take pressure off an implement.

 

[Agent Blue]

Any attachment is safe with an 8N. If memory serves correctly it could not pull a wagon loaded with hay bales up the grade to enter the hay loft. This is the reason one does not buy lite duty attachments when you have a fifty plus hp tractor. When the extra power is available one will adjust the throttle to make use of it. The weight and traction of wide deep lug tires respond accordingly. Its a lesson learned very quickly and sometimes expensive. Good luck with your new attachment purchases.

 

[southfork40]

Good thought, and I could see how that would destroy equipment. However, I do lift on turns...

 

[southfork40]

Yes, I see your point on the old 2 bottom plow - may 50+ HP is too much tractor for it. Also, the pins are too short for the Cat 1 to Cat 2 bushings, so I couldn't even get a tight fit. However, the disk is brand new, Cat 2 compatible, and the failure was identical. That's why I'm thinking I have something out of adjustment...

 

[southfork40]

Hmmm - this may be one of my problems. I am am allowing a little side to side drift. The top link is definitely always twisted hard to the left - so a stop nut may stop the twisitng. Thanks!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This is a perfect example of SIZE DOES MATTER. You need to go spend some $$$$ on the proper sized implements for your current tractor.

 

[boomer1025]

How much sway/back an forth movement do you have in the 3pt lift arms with the implement raised ??

 

[LD1]

Any pictures of the damage and/or how you are hooking them up to the tractor?

A cat II disc a-frame should not be bent by your tractor unless you are turning/backing it up into a tree or something. And unless you are having about 2' of side to side slop, the TL should not be bending because it has swivel eyes that are free to swing side to side. the only way to bend that sideways is to run out of swivel in the eye itself.

 

[boggen]

for reference for what is what.

below image is from Double HH Quality Products - Don't Compromise... Demand Double HH

pictures are worth a 1000 words. some pictures of 3pt hitch on your tractor, and 3pt plow and the 3pt disc.

wondering if your lower arms on 3pt hitch. have adjustable length. to make it easier to attach to stuff.

wondering if you have check chains and/or sway bars / stabilzer arms.

with using cat 1 pin in a cat 2 3pt hitch. you really should get some bushings. to reduce the hole size in the top link and lower arms. so cat 1 pin can be used without any sort of slop / play. if you do not. you risk ovaling out the holes in both 3pt hitch and on the implement attached. and at greater risk bending the arms and top link. due to the smaller pin in larger holes can allow for more movement. and put things out of whack.

on back of your tractor do you have different locations, were you can put top link or lower lift arms to switch between cat 1 and cat 2? see link http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm

 

[Leejohn]

I would check the upper lift arms and make sure one isn't stripped and not doing anything for a little bit.

 

[KWentling]

Does your tractor by chance have two (an upper and lower) mounts for the top link? If it does, you want to use the lower one.

Kim

 

[MHarryE]

Doesn't your tractor have telescoping lift arms to ease hook-up? Is it possible one is extended and the other is latched forward? Just brainstorming things that could have an effect.

 

[downslope]

You do have the lift arms adjusted level when using the disk, right? Sometimes when using the plow you have to shorten the right-side so that the plow is level when the tractor wheel is in the furrow. When done with the plowing you have to remember to put the lift arms back to level for the other implements.

If all implements are pulling to the left I would check everything on the tractor carefully, that no part of the linkages are bent or installed wrong, both lift arms are doing their share of lifting, etc.

I'm not familiar with your particular JD, but a lot of tractors allow you to move some pins in the lift arms so that the lift arm can either float or be fixed. I would set them to the fixed postion, no floating, and be sure both side are set the same. If there are multiple fixed holes be sure both sides are set the same. I've also seen tractors where the draft sensing mechanism is on the lower links and you can actually attach the lower lift arms to different points so as to vary the draft sensitivity. Again, if you have this be sure both sides are set the same

 

[Leejohn]

I wonder if he has found out anything yet?