Help Me Design/ Build a Shop

[Lakebuster]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

For my shop I went 40x60 and did a pole barn construction. we placed the 6x6 posts into sleeve. No termites or moisture comes in contact with the wood.
Then in 2018 we built a 38 x 78 RV garage and did a stick build as it is next to home and the wife wanted it to match home.
with all the brick work it was about double the cost of a pole barn.

 

[LindaK]

This is a 50x60 with two 14 ft overhangs/sheds. It has 2 - 20' wide by 14' high doors (for drivethrough) and another 12' x 12', and one man door. We just recently built a wall on one end of an overhang to keep hay dry.
The last picture shows how we used trusses on the center aisle and stick built the rest. This let's you use a taller door and saves money or concern of longer trusses. You might also see how we mounted the lights so not hidden when the door is up.
I would recommend overhangs/sheds, that is "cheap space". And building in the "post and beam" style allows you to go in afterwards and "traditional" walls in to divide it as you like. Also, you will never regret insulating or vapor barrier otherwise they can sweat. Also, watch your roof pitch, if your building a new home, you'll want your equipment bldg pitch to match or compliment. It looks awful with a nice house roof and a flat out building.
We have finished off a work shop in this building and have a entertaining room, with bath and kitchen in another building. (last picture).

Just one (wo-) man's input.
Linda

 

[C79]

My first thought is why go only 12' tall. You are taxed on footprint so why not go to 16ft and have the capability for a cat walk or loft storage later. If you set it up the right way you don't have to build it all at one either. As it is mentioned in other replies here, buildsheet you can afford now and add on later but a lot of forethought needs to be applied so you are not walled in later. As for the inside I like white metal, it keeps things bright and you can just hose it down. Keep your floor drains in a series so you can keep the clean. I second the vote for its own electric service especially if you ever turn a hobby into a business, separate bills is much easier at tax time. I also like a good epoxy coating on the concrete. I drop things and my eyesight is declining with age. A bright blue floor makes it much easier to find what I am looking for. Just my two cents,

 

[prairiegirl]

I just started building my house, and all but decided to wait on the shop. My wife and parents are on me about going ahead and building it while the house is going up.... They have a point, I really want a shop and need indoor storage for several things. We are planning on this being our retirement spot. I'm 40 and My wife is 44 so it needs to last for many decades.

My dream was a 50x60x12 red iron framed building. With inflation driving the price of the house so high, not to mention the shop price, that is not in the cards. Now hoping for at least 40x50x12. I know I can get 40' wood trusses, potentially 45'.

Proposed shop use:

1) Honey house/ bathroom with shower/ kitchenette for canning etc. This will likely be a framed out room 15x15 - 20x20 no set size but large enough for chores with A/C and ideally set up like an efficiency apartment. Initially I will rough in the plumbing for the shop construction and build out the rest over time.
2) General shop related tasks. light/ medium wood work, wrenching on random stuff, tractors, mowers, etc.
3) storage/ I bought a big shelf system from Bed Bath and Beyond when they went under. 12' tall and probably 40' long. lightish duty. no pallets but great for totes.
4) Motorcycle, mower and additional vehicle parking.

Proposed style.

A) Red iron frame - too expensive
B) Post Frame - Wood in the ground, Rot, Termites etc. Longevity? Much worry.
C) Stick built - Looks like potentially the best option for me.

I plan on getting the pad ready myslef, hiring concrete finishers, hiring framers and hiring out the metal skin installation. Planning on pulling power to a sub-panel from the house and wiring myself. I don't know anything about foundation requirements. Would prefer to add any required footing type things and pour all at once as opposed to digging footers, laying blocks, filling, then pouring the slab. There is probably around a 2' fall on the pad location so I would need to build up with the fill I set aside from my pond. It's clay and Shale, it was almost all shale but when I dug it back out for the driveway lots of the shale has broken down into clay.

I might could do a lot of the framing myself but I don't know the requirements for door headers and anchoring to the floor etc. Basically I'm not scared of hard work and can follow a plan but I don't have the knowledge for what's required.

Planning on 2 man doors and 2-3 overhead doors. At least one of those being about 18' wide.

Please help me with this. I know there have probably been several threads about this exact thing so links would likely also be helpful.

Post frame can be done with concrete footings.:
"perma-columns are pre-cast concrete columns that fit any laminated or solid post. This sustainable solution is guaranteed to withstand any insect damage or decay because no wood goes into the ground.
Using 10,000 PSI pre-cast concrete, perma-columns are 3x stronger than standard concrete. Then, the columns are reinforced with 60,000 PSI rebar welded to a ¼’’ steel bracket.
Furthermore, perma-columns include microfibers to add shock resistance and durability. Microsilica enhances compressive strength and erosion resistance. A corrosion inhibitor protects the rebar and brackets from rusting."

 

[prairiegirl]

A one man shop doesn't need a huge amount of power. You won't be running the welder and the milling machine at the same time. You can total up the draw of the things that can run on their own and add the largest intermittent draw. For example the compressor + HVAC + lights, and then add the welder or milling machine.

Depending on the house's draw, and how extensive the shop will be, you may well be able to get it all into 200a. On the other hand, the cost of adding a second service may be reasonable in your area. We have the power company from hell, so it's expensive here.

Also some planning depts (and not just in CA) get spooked by a shop that has enough stuff in it for people to live there, i.e. bathroom and shower and kitchen. They think you're trying to build an ADU on the cheap.

That makes sense, BUT make sure the electrical inspector thinks so too.

 

[Hoot Owl]

LLBJ
If you plane on a honey house you should have a separate electric Metter. This way you clam it for taxes.
Also put 110 and 220 receptacles about every 4'. As your honey production grows you will be glad they are there.

 

[YardBikeBob]

If you're going to have a conditioned room inside your barn, I suggest that slab be a separate pour. Once concrete gets cold it stays cold.

When planning your electrical requirements, I suggest a dedicated feed for a future EV charger. Yes, this could be shared with welding equipment. My charger for EV side-by-side draws a lot!

 

[Gord Baker]

Scale down your dreams and shop size. You don't need another house. 25 x 40, man door at both ends, windows 7' or more above grade to deter thieves. 2-10'x10' rollups. Perhaps a 8'x0' roll up at the other end. 400 Amp Service to home, 200 to shop. Consider correct Sprayfoam Insulation. Put it on high ground, floors sloping to Doors. Small office in back corner.

 

[aircommuter]

I have been through the house and shop build scenario 4 times. First time I was in my mid twenties. The shop was just a stall incorporated into the house. Not enough height for lift so I did a pit. House was a ranch style 2100 square feet.
From that I learned all the trades and built three more with detached shops. In the last three I built the shop first to give a place to live and for my tools. Subs weren’t used just me and my wife. One was a hangar/shop combo and the all had their own 3 phase meters. The last one was metal framed which is actually pretty cheap as long as you do the labor. Houses and generally 65% labor. Metal shops go up quick and easy. The walls can be simplified by using self insulated panels that are steel on both sides. The panels save a lot of time. I used 4 sub panels 2 in each side of the shop, wood working and automotive/machine. I used conduit for all the power so I could add wires easily in the future. It’s best to have extra panel space for adding circuits. The woodshop only needed a 12’ ceiling so I have a mezzanine above. Walls are 20’ which allowed for my dual two post lift and overhead pedestal mounted crane. Shop ended up being 50 x 130. Then someone came along and said I was supposed to be downsizing at my age! Too late now.
I know you aren’t going for all this but thought maybe you could get a couple pieces of info you could use.
Inflation shouldn’t be a problem based on all the lies I have read!

 

[hummertom]

Having been in construction for 45+ years as an electrical contractor I have done design/build for residential and commercial, I have learned that you must think of your electrical needs as you do your well, how much you need depends on how many things you need to do at the same time. Lights and plugs really don't require much especially with the new LED lights. Probably your highest draw will be the HVAC, electric heat or an electric stove. Electricity is the least efficient way to heat anything so you must plan. That HVAC unit and your basic stove will each draw about 50amps, but most uses will be intermittent, Plan ahead and think small and point of use, like window AC, baseboard heaters and a 6 gal electric water htr or on demand small water htr under sink. I ran my 1st house and shop with a hot tub out back on 125amps with never a problem. I have a neighbor with a 30x60 shop with every tool and a lift, he runs on 100 amps. Two more things to consider, most residential panels will only accept a max 100 amp breaker to plug in, so talk to your elec. contractor before he installs it, and last but not least consider permits, here in rural AZ up to 200 sq ft, the county doesn't care, 200-400 they care about WHERE it goes, after that full drawings and engineering, which ain't cheap. Good Luck