Help me manage my expectations for this tree puller, please

[Dave M7040]

This style of tree puller does not depend upon the lifting power of your FEL or 3 pt.

Tree Grapple / Post Puller - TJ12UN-TRK-BF

My tractor is a M7040 and in my area experimenting, using a helper and chain with no bucket so as to increase lifting power, the trees win.

This type of puller is on my wish list. Either by a new purchase or by modifying the type you are looking at with an additional cylinder.

Dave M7040

 

[teg]

...too many of them for me to walk around cutting/drilling/spraying them...

It's pretty simple, using a paint brush, coating the trunk is too much to do?

I would try and find a kid who wants to earn some spending cash! (Wait... that would take WAY too long...)

 

[Oldoak]

It's pretty simple, using a paint brush, coating the trunk is too much to do?

I would try and find a kid who wants to earn some spending cash! (Wait... that would take WAY too long...)

Isn't that the truth! :thumbsup:

On top of that, all I hear today is "how hard they have it". :laughing:

 

[ovrszd]

Trust me, if it's Tree of Heaven... it's unlike any other tree in term of surviving (and being invasive). Here's your state and where the tree has been found:

View attachment 542910


More about it here: tree-of-heaven: Ailanthus altissima (Sapindales: Simaroubaceae): Invasive Plant Atlas of the United States

I've seen roots grow and sprout 100 yards away from the main area.

Here Honey Locust are similar. But they won't go 100yds. 100ft frequently. But again, it's dependent on how they are removed.

 

[dsb5610]

I built a tree puller for my Toolcat with the intension of clearing trees from 30+ acres. I pulled a number of them and initially thought it would be a good solution however some broke off and nearly all left the area tore up making it rough to mow. I ended up cutting them flush with a chainsaw or cordless reciprocating saw and treated the stumps. Took me 3 or 4 years working on it when I could.

If I had to do it again I would look into one of the 3 point PTO powered saws. Cut them down with the saw on the back and carry them away with the grapple on the front.

I added a 2" receiver to my puller so it still gets used for moving stuff around and it is the go to attachment for removing posts from a fence line.

dsb

 

[4570Man]

Tap root trees usually pull out pretty clean in my experience. The trees that don't have a tap root make a way bigger mess. My puller will cut trees 3/4" diameter and smaller if you're not careful. Trees bigger than that hardly ever break.

 

[Grandad4]

Can't add much to what others say and I have no experience with such a tree puller, but I had very close to the same tractor and loader for many years and handled many trees of various sizes with it. If you just grab a tree with that thing, expect you'd have to work it back and forth to get it loose enough to pull out. You'll be exposed to whatever might fall out of the tree while doing that (dead limbs, etc.). For that reason and particularly with the larger ones, I would just push over the tree first before grabbing hold of it with the puller.

In your situation, that might be a pretty effective way to deal with your trees with the equipment you have at hand and without being on the ground and up/down off the tractor all the time. I would sure give it a try.

I would also recommend all the rear ballast you can lay your hands on to maximize your prying and pushing power.

 

[FTG-05]

Can't add much to what others say and I have no experience with such a tree puller, but I had very close to the same tractor and loader for many years and handled many trees of various sizes with it. If you just grab a tree with that thing, expect you'd have to work it back and forth to get it loose enough to pull out. You'll be exposed to whatever might fall out of the tree while doing that (dead limbs, etc.). For that reason and particularly with the larger ones, I would just push over the tree first before grabbing hold of it with the puller.

In your situation, that might be a pretty effective way to deal with your trees with the equipment you have at hand and without being on the ground and up/down off the tractor all the time. I would sure give it a try.

I would also recommend all the rear ballast you can lay your hands on to maximize your prying and pushing power.

Good stuff! Glad you mentioned that last statement. I'll make sure to do that.

Thanks!

 

[CobyRupert]

If I had to do it again I would look into one of the 3 point PTO powered saws. Cut them down with the saw on the back and carry them away with the grapple on the front.

dsb

A what?
I had to look this up. Like one of these? Iowa Farm Equipment -- Dougherty TR32 Tractor 3 Point Turbo Tree Saw

Interesting device. Maybe limited on what shrubs (versus trees) one can use it on?

Edit: Maybe not, some of their other videos show it, or front mounted skid steer version, taking out more sizable trees. A few of the trees fall back on the skid steer. That's not good. You know eventually you're going to take on a tree that's too big, either drop it on yourself, or hang up the blade 1/2 way through it.

 

[mark02tj]

I have one of these mounted on the front of my Deere 3520. It's a bit much for it, but it does a pretty decent job. The limitations are due to the size of the tractor and FEL, not due to the device itself. Your Kubota is a bit bigger than my Deere, so you'll experience less of the limiting factors. I use mine primarily for pulling up honeysuckle and dead ash trees.

As others have mentioned.... Expect to rock back and forth to break the trees loose. Even a "small" tree can get a bit stubborn. Also, be VERY AWARE of what my come down out of that tree when you're shaking it. It's pretty scary to have stuff come down on you!! I now wear a forestry helmet with a face guard when I'm using my puller. I also keep the ROPS raised. Also, with my dead ash trees, I generally try to cut them down to 3' or 4' now as that minimizes the amount of stuff coming down on me.

Also mentioned was the use of copious amounts of ballast. I'll second this suggestion. Without ballast expect to have your rear end come up on a regular basis.

One of the reasons I went with the Notch Tree Puller was the fact that the pulling point is centered on the puller rather than being offset to one side. I wanted to minimize the chances of tweaking my FEL frame.