Help me save money on an addition.

[HawkinsHollow]

This is worth considering.

Some predicted a residential real estate crash this year that hasn't quite happened so far as prices are concerned, but the market seems to be flat/cooling. 2024 could be a different real estate market?

With the list of what you are adding on, you are building a house attached to your current one... Have you considered selling what you have and buying something closer to what you want? I would assume you could be even money with less headache?

This is not even an option. We love our neighborhood too much, I just built a 650 sqft shop, what I could sell my 1000 sqft house for would not buy us very much (even though I have a lot of equity in the house). But thank you for the idea.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Local codes may not allow the residential use of sawmill lumber that isn't insect treated and officially stamped for grade. It may be okay for barn use, but not sure you can use it to build a house addition. If it's green and not kiln dried, it can warp and cause more issues. The dimensions may vary from graded kiln dried lumber which creates more issues in framing.

Some codes require licensed plumbers and electricians to do that work.

I am not going to use sawmill lumber for framing. Mostly trim, ceilings, faux beams/posts ect.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Again, thanks for the advice! We definitely need to take things to the next level. We have a rough plan I drew on Sketchup, but it needs some major refining. We need to make a list of wants/needs. Need to start making a materials list and put it in a spreadsheet with prices. Also, start getting some prices on big ticket items like windows, tubs, cabinets, countertops etc.

I am a school teacher so I have 2 months off in the summer. The goal is to be ready to hit the ground running as soon as I am out of school in late May. Ideally I would have the footers dug (plan on doing that myself) and block laid (not doing myself) before that time. I think you are right about hiring a crew to get it framed and in the dry ASAP.

As far as saving money... I think most people pay the premium for convenience. I do not mind putting a bit extra work into it to save some money, I have always been that way no sense in changing now.

Lots of steps need to happen before we can break ground! I think the main thing is I need to start working a bit harder on this because late spring is going to be here before we know it.

 

[jjeff]

Graph paper, architects ruler, adjustable angle triangle, a #2 Ticonderoga, eraser and a to scale interior design template were invaluable and really inexpensive for me drawing my scale plans.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Graph paper, architects ruler, adjustable angle triangle, a #2 Ticonderoga, eraser and a to scale interior design template were invaluable and really inexpensive for me drawing my scale plans.

Yeah I appreciate a good pencil drawn plan. But I have been using the free version of Trimble Sketchup and I have to say that is pretty convenient as well.

 

[newbury]

Late May to August is a warm time in Chattanooga, TN, I found it very helpful to have an outside cooling spot near where I was working when the temps pushed 100°F. A lawn sprinkler might even do.
Definitely plan a shady spot so you don't have to clean up to cool down.
One thing to stock up on is large tarps so you can cover materials when it rains.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

Late May to August is a warm time in Chattanooga, TN, I found it very helpful to have an outside cooling spot near where I was working when the temps pushed 100°F. A lawn sprinkler might even do.
Definitely plan a shady spot so you don't have to clean up to cool down.
One thing to stock up on is large tarps so you can cover materials when it rains.

You are 100% correct about the heat in Chattanooga in the summer. Thank you for those tips! A big fan and a mister might be in order for this job. Also I will have air conditioning in my shop by then, just 10 feet away.

 

[jjeff]

Yeah I appreciate a good pencil drawn plan. But I have been using the free version of Trimble Sketchup and I have to say that is pretty convenient as well.

Just suggesting not knowing if you were as technologically handicapped as me lol
Anyways best of luck and following.

 

[Carl_NH]

Yes, that's what I use - graph paper, rule and 1/4"/foot to start and then if engineering stamps are needed you will need to spend a few $ on that. Then you can easily put a lumber / plywood and windows list together.

Definitely will need to have the foundation (crawl space or basement?) in by May for a June frame, and then have a framing contractor lined up by March - 10-12 weeks in advance is not uncommon lead time for those crews.

The big ticket items are windows, (Simonton and Matthews Bros) make a good vinyl window product that dont break the bank.

 

[grsthegreat]

framing crews out here are 4-6 months out. heck, building is going nuts. even though i have retired, i still get messages left on my phone asking if i would bid their electrical job. my message SAYS im retired and only do generator maintenance. doesnt stop them. they still leave message and beg for me to call back. No one can fine an electrician that can take on more work

 

[HawkinsHollow]

framing crews out here are 4-6 months out. heck, building is going nuts. even though i have retired, i still get messages left on my phone asking if i would bid their electrical job. my message SAYS im retired and only do generator maintenance. doesnt stop them. they still leave message and beg for me to call back. No one can fine an electrician that can take on more work

Yep, Chattanooga is booming as well! From all accounts it is tough to line up subs around here too and if you do find one prices can be exorbitant. Which is another reason I am trying to do some of this on my own. The more subs you deal with the more chance of getting some yahoos that try to screw you or gouge you. I have 2 good friends that are contractors, I might have to pull a few favors from them if necessary.

 

[jjeff]

Yes, that's what I use - graph paper, rule and 1/4"/foot to start and then if engineering stamps are needed you will need to spend a few $ on that. Then you can easily put a lumber / plywood and windows list together.

Definitely will need to have the foundation (crawl space or basement?) in by May for a June frame, and then have a framing contractor lined up by March - 10-12 weeks in advance is not uncommon lead time for those crews.

The big ticket items are windows, (Simonton and Matthews Bros) make a good vinyl window product that dont break the bank.

In my experiences depending if your building inspector thinks you know what your doing, Trusses need a engineer stamp which is included in legitimate trusses manufactured by a company. my suggestion would be don't buy cheap trusses off Craigslist etc without an engineers stamp/ drawings.

 

[HawkinsHollow]

In my experiences depending if your building inspector thinks you know what your doing, Trusses need a engineer stamp which is included in legitimate trusses manufactured by a company. my suggestion would be don't buy cheap trusses off Craigslist etc without an engineers stamp/ drawings.

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

 

[jjeff]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

Scissor trusses? If not you can probably find specs on loads/ spans online for rafters and floor joists.

 

[jjeff]

In my experiences also the more unique and complicated your addition is the more pricey and harder it may be to find help for it.

 

[buckeyefarmer]

framing crews out here are 4-6 months out. heck, building is going nuts. even though i have retired, i still get messages left on my phone asking if i would bid their electrical job. my message SAYS im retired and only do generator maintenance. doesnt stop them. they still leave message and beg for me to call back. No one can fine an electrician that can take on more work

That seems to be the situation everywhere.

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

I did vaulted ceilings in my place also. There is quite a bit of hidden expense in that. LVL or GluLam beams, and bigger lumber are the known quantity. Higher SQFT cost for framing. More material and labor for drywall, extra lighting, depending on the space available in the attic more than likely will require spray foam insulation, scaffolding, etc.

 

[Carl_NH]

Do up some simple drawings of existing structure/rooms and post some examples here, then what this "addition" looks like - is it an L to the existing with roof pitch etc.

Also suggest sticking to 24x36 or 28x32 or 36 length for common size rafters and floor joists and center support/columns under the base.

Vaulted ceilings are great but need collar ties and ridge beams and this adds to the heat/cooling load as bigjohn points out and then good/tight insulation in the roof spray foam is $$ and finishing needs scaffolding - all cost more at the end of the day.

 

[D&D]

The addition is going to have vaulted ceilings so unfortunately no trusses on this project. Used them in my shop build. SO NICE! We had the trusses set in 2 hours. That would have taken me days framing it the traditional way.

hickory or knotty pine t&g would look awesome and rustic Instead of drywall. exposed collar ties would add to the effect

 

[LittleBittyBigJohn]

I'm doing pine t&g in mine. It should look awesome but it's pricy. Sheetrock is something like $0.20/sqft and the wood is near $2.00/sqft.