Help me with fixing car

[Richard]

Paul: You are correct that not much goes wrong. Can you say, one set of brake pads, one clutch two timing belts..(thinking)... well, spark plugs, but they don’t count too much. /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif. This thing has been as reliable as the sun shining. I didn’t’ change my first timing belt until 120,000 (ducking from flack) /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The only belt I removed, was the a/c belt, left the alternator belt on. The “screech” sounds ?? like a “dry” sound.. meaning, I once thought oil pump..but that is “wet”. Given the items I’ve changed... the idlers seem to fit the bill of the “dryness’ of the sound. (I’m sure you all understand?) The sound is primarily at startup. As I “stab” the throttle the screech ROARS with the higher rpm’s, then will go away. As I sit there idling, or traveling slowly, AND turn the A/C on.. it will come back..again..until rpm’s seem to overcome it. That is why I initially thought belts going bad (they were). If I turn the ac off, the sound will subside, hence, my deducting that it’s the extra drag of the a/c unit on the belt messing with the idler. Say Paul.. is it feasible to take the 2 “plastic” covers off front engine to replace idlers WITHOUT having to dismantle rest of front? I was debating that, and figured the “risk” is jumping the belt, so I could hold the tension using zip ties or something.. so, the question is..”is it feasible” or do I just gotta bite the bullet and take the front end off again?

The thermostat was NOT OEM, just stopped at carquest & picked it up as Mazda dealer is way opposite way. Hmm..got me thinking.

Rowski: Engine temperature is NOT a factor. The primary time noise seems to be there is on startup (hot or cold), lower rpm’s. Then..will go away. I can drive 15 miles to work and not hear a peep. Maybe a different day, drive 14 miles to work... be at stoplight at last mile...then hear it trying to squeak... I’ll rev it up just a tad..and it’ll typically go away. Prior to reving it up..if I turn a/c on..it will gain in intensity, subsiding if I turn a/c off and subsiding further as I rev (though after it FIRST increases in intensity) Given that, I first thought the a/c unit had “locked” and the belt was squealing and squealing louder as rpms went up and heated the belt enough to make it grab & then rotate the a/c unit. I was even getting more creative in my thoughts until I swapped belts and problem continued.

/w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif

 

[s1120]

well, I got to say I do not know if you can change the pullys by just removing the covers. I work in parts, so I have never done it before. I could ask one of the guys, but I am on vacation this week, so I am not at work. I would not risk slipping a touth though. I would also take a good look at the AC fan[the one that does not run most of the time] Make sure it not making the noise when the AC turns on. It should turn on as soon as you switch on the AC.

 

[s1120]

BTW, If you are still working on it monday, I will be back to work, and can ask. Also if you have a hard time finding the parts, I can help you with that also.

 

[Richard]

cool, & thank you.. I'll try the fans as yo usuggest. Also..if you jump timimg belt, does this model have catastrophic valve damage like my wifes Volvo did?

If so, I won't do it that way for sure

Thanks

 

[s1120]

<font color=red>Also..if you jump timimg belt, does this model have catastrophic valve damage like my wifes Volvo did?</font color=red>

You know? I don't know. I have been working with these cars for almost 10 years, and I have never herd of one crashing. I don't think so though, but I would not risk it.

 

[Rowski]

I bet ya a dollar you alternatoe belt is loose/w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Seriously... Try tightening the alternator belt. After start up your alternator working hard trying to replace the charge on the battery. Same with turning on the a/c, you have a blower motor, a/c clutch, and condensor/cooling fan. This puts strain on the alt. as it try to keep the battery charged. If the belt is a multi rib belt it needs to be pretty tight. AS a test (do this before tightening the alt belt), after you start your car and the squeal goes away try turning on accesories like light, wipers, heater blower, rear window defroster, brake lights. You should start to hear the squeal coming on louder as more load is applied to the alt.




As far as your engine being an interferance engine it isn't




<font color=blue>Mazda

Engine Recommended Interval
1.5L
(32)

1.6L
(32)

1.8L 4-Cyl
(32)

1.8L V6
(32)

2.0L SOHC
(32)

2.0L* DOHC (626, MX-6 & Protege)
(32)

2.0L DOHC (Tribute)
(32)

2.0L* Diesel
(32)

2.2L*
(32)

2.3L L4 (B2300)
(45)

2.3L V6
(32)

2.5L L4 (B2500)
(45)

2.5L V6
(32)

3.0L* Except MPV
(32)

3.0L* MPV
(62)


* - Interference engine.

(32) - On 1996 & prior models, replace every 60,000 miles. On 1997-98 CA & MA vehicles, belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles. On all other 1997-98 models, replace every 60,000 miles. On 1999 & later CA, CT, DE, DC, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT & VA vehicles belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles. On all other 1999 & later models replace every 60,000 miles.

(45) - Inspect at 60,000 & 90,000 mile intervals & replace at 105,000 miles. On B-Series truck, inspect at 120,000 miles and replace if needed.

(62) - On 1989-98 MPV 3.0L models, at 60,000 miles inspect the tensioner pulley & replace as necessary. A worn inner bushing may allow the pulley to slant resulting in a torn or jumped timing belt.</font color=blue>

 

[Ozarker]

<font color=blue>Also..if you jump timimg belt, does this model have catastrophic valve damage like my wifes Volvo did?[/quote]

It can............................. depends on how far off it is.

 

[Richard]

small update for clarification... Arrived home, left car running, popped hood. BOTH fans were running...both stopped for minute while I stood there & watched...then both came back on. I THINK they on/off'ed independent of each other, I was just smiling to see them cycling.

Interesting thought on alternator belt. It too was changed, and interesting enough... I THINK I recall once/twice that the squeel increased as the fan speed of a/c blower increased.

Sure rather tighten that belt than new tensioners!! I'll check into that tomorrow/saturday.

 

[micromike]

I May have the answer on your over heating problem. Change your radiator cap. All cooling systems on newer cars are pressurized. I can't remember the exact numbers but for each pound of pressure, the boiling point of water/coolent is raised. If your radiator cap will not hold pressure your system is going to run hotter when idling or under any stress. Make sure you get the right pressure LBS for your car.

If this doesn't work, you need to have your whole cooling system pressure checked. A very simple procedure that any competent shop can manage. It's just a matter of putting a pressure gauge and pump on your radiator pumping up the pressure, checking for leaks and waiting to see if the pressure stays up or leaks down.

I happen to have a pressure tester. I had the same problem you described and checked the cap. It was bad. I replaced it and it still overheated when idling or going up long hills. Pressure checked the radiator and found a small leak where the heater hose attatached to the engine. A couple twists on the clamp screw and I haven't had a problem with overheating all summer.
Good Luck

Mike

 

[bgott]

I check for belt squeal by carrying a squirt bottle of water. Pop the hood when the squealing starts and squirt your belts one at a time. It will kill the squeal long enough to figure out if and which belt it is.