Oil & Fuel Help needed finding the air bleed port

[MossRoad]

No, I forgot that the older machines are different that mine. On my 2010 PT 425 the bleed port has a cap on it. Once the cap is removed and the supplied hose with fitting is screwed on its open and ready. Thee is no additional "cracking" of anything required. The rest of the procedure is identical.

Thinking about it, I believe mine is like that too. Remove the cap and the port is open. Yikes! How quick the mind goes. :confused3:

 

[Marks481]

Thinking about it, I believe mine is like that too. Remove the cap and the port is open. Yikes! How quick the mind goes. :confused3:

Same here on my 2005. I didn't have the "supplied" bleed hose last time I changed filters. But didn't need it. I just took some 1/4" gas hose, and just threaded it onto the tee where the cap threads on. No need for a fitting on it, since it isn't under pressure. Might have put a hose clamp on, just in case.

Below is a picture of my bleed connection. The right hand (aft end) of the tee-fitting has the cap you remove to install the bleed hose.

 

[jfischer]

I know this is an old post, but thought it might help some people out that have a PT425 out there. I know, or lets say I hope it was the correct point it directed me to on my 2015 machine.

I took the cap off the top, and hooked the line up and ran it into the tank, took the spark plugs out (figured it would crank a bit easier that way) and cranked until I had nothing but oil with no bubbles.

I might also make a note for those who don't know, get you a pan ready to put under the machine, as it will have oil come out the filter when you take it off, and drain out the hole in the front of the pan. (I wish i would have thought of that before I did it), and also you will need a oil filter wrench that will go around the 3 3/4" size, I just had the old style with the handle on it, and have now ordered one I can slip over it and use a 3/8" rachet to loosen it.

Below are a couple of pictures of what kind of pump they are using now.

 

[MossRoad]

I've always laid some paper towels under the filter area, then just cracked the oil filter loose, then slipped a gallon size ziplock back around it, loosen it all the way and let it fall in the bag. I keep the bag there for a bit to let anything that comes out of the filter mounting location drip into the bag as well. Works great. Someone on this forum told me about it, so thanks to whoever you are!
:laughing:

 

[MossRoad]

I've always laid some paper towels under the filter area, then just cracked the oil filter loose, then slipped a gallon size ziplock back around it, loosen it all the way and let it fall in the bag. I keep the bag there for a bit to let anything that comes out of the filter mounting location drip into the bag as well. Works great. Someone on this forum told me about it, so thanks to whoever you are!
:laughing:

 

[jfischer]

I did the Ziplock bag trick on the engine oil filter, but this one is a lot closer around it, and I was having a hard enough time using the wrong oil filter wrench (until the new one gets in) to even think much about it. I was going to try the Ziplock Bag on this one, but it had a LOT of oil come out and I think next time I will just let it loose enough to start dripping out and leave it for any hour or so. I use the Oil Eater stuff and it does a good job of cleaning up, but have thought about a pressure washer but everything I work on is a long way away from the water, and have to drag 100 or more feet of hose to hook it up, and then I know it would be hard for me in the chair to drag the pressure washer around, as most have 2 wheels you kick it back on to roll it around, and is hard enough trying to roll the chair around in rough conditions many times.

 

[MossRoad]

I can't do the ziplock trick on my Kohler's engine oil filter. Its' on the side and is usually pretty much empty once I leave it off for 10 minutes, as it drains back into the case.

 

[SpringHollow]

I use a Rigid strap wrench on mine and the bag. Sometimes I use the coated bendable aluminum funnels. They can come in handy. Here is an example:
PIG Form-A-Funnel Flexible Draining Tool - Large, Model# 18714 [Misc.] - Fuel Funnels - Amazon.com



Ken

 

[jfischer]

Your 1850 must have a LOT More room then the 425 does. Heck, you are doing all you can to snake a regular band wrench with a handle around and between the hoses to get to the bottom of the filter to get it on, then you have to slide it all the way up to be able to turn it, so why I have ordered one of the band wrenchs you can use a 3/8 square socket on, in hopes it will be a bit easier on the next change.

I would guess you were talking about changing the hydro filter here, and not the oil filter.

 

[SpringHollow]

Yes since this was a bleed port thread, I thought we were talking about the hydraulic oil filter. For me, the hard one is the hydraulic oil filter. I do not remember what I do for the engine oil filter - I have a variety of filter wrenches including the style that go on the end which are nice when they work.

I did add a small ball valve and hose to the engine oil drain - I snake the hose through the tub hole to drain. When not changing the oil, there is also a plug in the hose as well as a band around the spring loaded valve handle as a backup safeties. I would hate to lose an engine for convenience.

Ken