HELP: old Speedex trouble

[DanD78]

There must be one wire from the coil to the spring on the condenser. The second wire that you say is capped off has to be broken off from your coil if the other goes to the kill switch . The wire that runs from the condenser to the carb. linkage will ground the points and kill the engine. If you don't get spark when done disconnect the wire that goes to the carb linkage and make sure it is not touching anything.

I suspect the new switch you have is for battery ignition. You need a switch that will put the ignition wire to ground in the off position and open in the on position. The wire from the carb. linkage should also run to the switch if you want the switch to shut the engine off.

With the magnatron points are not need. The magnatron kit comes with instructions in the box. You don't need to remove the fly wheel to install. The kit will not work on all engines so check your numbers.

The two wires that come out from under the fly wheel by the starter are from the alternator. This has nothing to do with making spark.

Dan

 

[Wis Bang]

If the flywheel assembly is pressed in place, once I've taken it off, how do I get it back on?

I was looking for a serial number on the engine last night, and came up with these three sets of numbers:

Model: 252417
Type: 0161-01
Code: 79112111

Hopefully these numbers will help me find some parts...

Insert the key into the keyway on the crankshaft and push the flywheel in place making sure the key stays in place. Tighten the nut to secure the flywheel...

Code 79112111 means it was mfg in November 1979 and the 2111 describes the output shaft info &, I think, horsepower so this is an 11 horse. The Model number steers you for the parts.

 

[Triple]

With the magnatron points are not need. The magnatron kit comes with instructions in the box. You don't need to remove the fly wheel to install. The kit will not work on all engines so check your numbers.

So if I use the Magnetron, I can leave the old, broken wires where they are, not connected to anything? This is what I'm looking at:

Magnetron Electronic Module
Replacement Ignition Coil for Briggs
Replaces Briggs 398811
Fits models 176432, 192400, 226400, 250400, 196400, 197400, 19E400 and 19G400
For 7 thru 16 HP horizontal and vertical single cylinder engines
Part# 440417
Our Price: $42.79

Is Model 252417 included in "250400" ? If not, I'll have to buy this:

Magnetos, Coils, Armatures
Replacement Ignition Coil for Briggs
Replaces Briggs 298968
Fits models 144200 thru 147702, 170400 thru 253400, 300400 thru 326400
For 7 thru 16HP horizontal & vertical engines with breaker point ignition.
Part# 460006
Our Price: $39.43

I can only assume 252417 is included in "170400 thru 253400."

 

[Wis Bang]

Ask [e-mail] the parts place what you need for the numbers on your engine. They should be glad to tell you which one. Do you have a B & S parts dealer in your yellow pages? They should have this stuff on the shelf & would know what you need...

 

[Triple]

Code 79112111 means it was mfg in November 1979 and the 2111 describes the output shaft info &, I think, horsepower so this is an 11 horse.

Yes, 399cc, single cylinder, 11 hp.

 

[Wis Bang]

Using the local B & S supplier makes it alot easier to make sure you have the correct stuff. The coils all look alot alike so bringing in the one you have helps make sure you get the right stuff.

Also make sure you have good compression, sometimes a valve will stick open when these engines sit for long periods. Pull the plug and turn it over w/ your thumb over the plug hole & you will feel the pressure as the piston comes up.

We used to pull the head & squirt some oil on the valve stem and tap it shut w/ a soft hammer & made sure it open/closed b/4 re-installing the head. Head torque is easy, a standard hand wrench makes them thight enough...we used to just re-use the head gasket.

 

[Triple]

I thought I might save a few bucks buying online, but it probably is safer to see the parts in person prior to purchase. I have a dealer a few miles away I will visit this week.

I haven't used a tool to test compression, but it definitely builds pressure and blows air out the spark plug hole when you crank it.

 

[Wis Bang]

I thought I might save a few bucks buying online, but it probably is safer to see the parts in person prior to purchase. I have a dealer a few miles away I will visit this week.

I haven't used a tool to test compression, but it definitely builds pressure and blows air out the spark plug hole when you crank it.

Good then the valves are not rusted open. Get the spark in order and then all you need to worry about is the condition of the carb. If it was put away w/ a dry fuel tank you should be good to go.

It's alot easier to walk up to a counter w/ the old part and the numbers from the engine and get the correct parts than going online. It's alot easier to go back when it is not the right part too!

 

[Triple]

Never did update this thread.

The Magnetron module cured my ignition woes. Tractor ran great for two months after I got it running at the end of April.

Now it isn't charging its battery, leaving me no power to crank the engine. Unless I jump it, it won't start.

Suggestions?

 

[VALENT]

Have you tried charging the battery to make sure the battery will hold a charge?