Well,just bought that echo model 520,,cost 360 dollars + tax. Its more of a saw than I need,but,,,,its not light either,,picked up the next one under it,,and couldn't really tell any difference in the weight,,those other brands are supposed to weigh more,,,don't know,,,book says that weight I gave is without bar and chain,,,don't get me wrong,,its not that heavy,,just wouldn't want one 2-3 lbs more,,don't think,,,,don't like all this safety stuff much either on new ones,,,chain break,,,tip guard might be usefull cutting brush though,,just one bolt holds it on. We'll see,,,but it does have a two year warrenty on every thing,,stihls was just one year,,feel better about that,,I think for the money,,and for my needs,,it will be hard to beat,,as far as the three brands talked about.... thingy
help on new chain saw purchase
- Thread starter RICHARDG
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One more thing,,,speaking of anti kickback chains,,,,guess that one on my new echo is an anti kickback one,,looks like its missing every other tooth,,and a thing is there in its place?????,,,Going to take it to my local chainsaw fix it shop tommorow or soon and see if he agrees and put one on that kicks back,,,,anti kick back,,heard of this,,but just,,[I think], relize what it means,,,less teeth to make it kick back??? well don't take a genius to figure if you make less teeth,,it cuts less too,,,am I wrong,,not sure,but thats what the chain looks like to me,,my old poluns,,didn't have this??? Also the chain brake,,,looks like it would be simple enough to disengage,,[ain't really looked yet],,but will wait and see about that safety thing,,,also don't want to void that two year warrenty,,but,,,won't be using chain break,,I'm sure,,,thanks again for you alls help,,,thingy
ScottAR
Veteran Member
Congrats on the new saw.
While I agree the tip guard is a nusance, the chain brake/handguard will save your bacon one day, literately. The one on my Stihl doesn't get in the way and has saved my limbs a couple of times I did somthing stupid.
While I agree the tip guard is a nusance, the chain brake/handguard will save your bacon one day, literately. The one on my Stihl doesn't get in the way and has saved my limbs a couple of times I did somthing stupid.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( its like saying we got this stihl saw with 59cc and 20 inch bar for 350 dollars to sell PLUS,,we have this saw thats got 59cc and 20 inch bar for over 500 dollars,,now do you want a good one or what?? )</font>
I think the difference could be like the difference in John Deere lawn tractors. An L120 and a GX255 both have 20hp and 48" cut width, but one costs $2,199 and the other $6,299.
In the Husky line, the pro model has a higher rpm motor. For the most part, the pro models get Welbro carbutators, where as the regular line gets Zama carbs. Something like that doesn't show up on the spec sheet, but it make a difference in performance and reliability. There are also differences in the air filters and so on.
I think the difference could be like the difference in John Deere lawn tractors. An L120 and a GX255 both have 20hp and 48" cut width, but one costs $2,199 and the other $6,299.
In the Husky line, the pro model has a higher rpm motor. For the most part, the pro models get Welbro carbutators, where as the regular line gets Zama carbs. Something like that doesn't show up on the spec sheet, but it make a difference in performance and reliability. There are also differences in the air filters and so on.
HickoryNut
Silver Member
I just bought a scrap '71 saw because it had the chain brake parts I needed for my '69 Pro Mac 10-10. That's just crazy talk wanting to take the brake off, best invention since automatic oilers. I'll repeat what others have said, the Farm Boss is the best value in the $400 dollar class, put a $20 dollar full-chisel chain on it and git-r-done. Sounds like your Echo came with a skip-chain,,, goofy
Birdhunter1
Veteran Member
I just bought a full chisel chain for my 029 (18") and an 024 (16") and man what a difference. I had a semi chisel without the safety links and they were pretty good too but the full chisel is awesome on the 029, haven't acutally used the 024 yet. I was talking to a guy yesterday and he had put a carbide tipped chain on his 029, anyone ever done this?
Varmintmist
Platinum Member
Dont even consider messing with the chain break. The ONLY time you will notice it is right after it saved your skin or when you got it out you pushed it forward. It can only activate if there is forward pressure on it. It will only get forward pressure on it when you push it, or it pushes into you. If you find that you are activating the break and the saw isnt coming back, then your hands are in the wrong place.
Tip gaurd, you can lose. Just remember that the tip is where you get the most kick. From the middle of the front bar over the top about 3 inches toward the back is the danger zone. The saw can kick without it being there, but that is where the real whip develops.
Tip gaurd, you can lose. Just remember that the tip is where you get the most kick. From the middle of the front bar over the top about 3 inches toward the back is the danger zone. The saw can kick without it being there, but that is where the real whip develops.
HickoryNut
Silver Member
With a carb-tip chain you are gambling $100 on the chance of not ever hitting a rock or wire. They are not any sharper, just stay sharp longer.
The way to make an 029 cut logs with the big dogs is to change chain pitch from .325 to 3/8"
The way to make an 029 cut logs with the big dogs is to change chain pitch from .325 to 3/8"
