HELP: pto disconnect

[k0ua]

Glad you got it going, be sure to keep it lubed well with a good lube, WD40 is good for cleaning out dirt, and gunk, but you need a good lube, too. Regular chassis grease is ok, But I like to use Fluid Film. Seems to attract less dirt. We have all fought with the darn things, I used to cuss them too, but after you have done it a few times, it seems easier. Yes the ones with the crossways push button latch seems easier to me.

James K0UA

 

[MHarryE]

Actually there are several different locks - depending on supplier. You have one of the more expensive and reliable ones. You will find many of the companies supply drive shafts from multiple suppliers. I have a LandPride mower and when I needed a part the first thing they wanted to know is who was the supplier of my driveline.

 

[sawduster98]

I just had the exact same thing happen to me 2 days ago. I disconnected my mower the previous night and when I went to reconnect it...the u-joint wouldn't slide on far enough. New mower, never any problems. It turned out that the coil spring behind the pull-back plate had slipped down and moved onto the shaft, preventing the plate from being pulled back far enough. :confused2:

 

[Dogscape]

I just had the exact same thing happen to me 2 days ago. I disconnected my mower the previous night and when I went to reconnect it...the u-joint wouldn't slide on far enough. New mower, never any problems. It turned out that the coil spring behind the pull-back plate had slipped down and moved onto the shaft, preventing the plate from being pulled back far enough. :confused2:

How did you eventually troubleshoot that? and fix that?

 

[teg]

For me, if I push the pto shaft on before pulling the collar back... the collar locks in place. I have to back it off the pto shaft by just a little (1/4") and then I can pull the collar back. Not sure if that was your problem but it does happen.

I have several types, the pull back collar, the twist collar (don't care for it), and the simple push button collar (which can be hard on the thumb). I like the pull back collar out of the three of them...

 

[gwdixon]

Ok... thanks for all the help.
I got it on... seems those little ball bearings were sticking. Cleaned em, sprayed em with wd 40 and I think I rinsed out some grit. Managed to get em moving, then I hanged the thing over a retaining wall to make the shaft level and I was able to get her to click.

I wish it was easier. Do they make different mechanisms for those shaft ends? That is way too over engineered. geez. Lost 2 hours of work today.

I want to be able to swap my attachedments 2 , 3 times a day this time of year, if need be.

I feel your pain. If you don't already have a bad back it won't be long.

My solution was to buy a new yoke that fits on the end. It has a push pin type of hookup that is much easier to engage.

Take the tractor-side half of the PTO shaft to Tractor Supply or a tractor dealer. Tell them you want the pin-type yoke for the end. Most places usually have them in stock. There are so many sizes that you need to have the half-shaft in hand to directly compare things.

It is easier to get a tractor dealer to press the old end out of the U-joint and press the new end in. You can do it yourself but it is not easy without the right tools - trust me on that.

 

[Notforhire]

My bush hog is also difficult to hook up.
Try hooking up the driveshaft before installing the top link.
Works for me.:thumbsup:

 

[foggy1111]

I got a tip that I have not yet tried. Get a PTO 4" "extenstion" at your farm store or implement dealer. Speeco makes one. This will allow attaching via the "old" cross pin (speeco) style. It's easy to connect and may be cheaper than converting your existing set-up. :thumbsup:

You need to be able to add the 4" to your drive length tho. I have PEC hitch on mine and the extra length is just fine. I have the extension....just have not tried it....yet.

I got a few of the style you are having difficulty with.....they outta lynch the guy that engineered that POS. :laughing: (It does go on easier when you cuss about it first....and have it cleaned up and lubricated well.)

 

[Mark Page]

I hate the damned things. I think someone was going overboard with safety. To get hung up in the PTO push button style you would really have to go out of your way or be really stupid, or both.
My new Woods mower came with this set up, it only took me 2 successful attempts before I replaced the whole driveline with the old fashioned kind. My snow blower came with the collar type also. Being forewarned I made the dealer switch it out before he got paid.
I would love to know how many accidents have ever happened by someone getting caught up in the push button type.

 

[Bladehauler]

Well at first I thought , You MUST NOT KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING!!
And now I must apologize for thinking that way. I worked on my uncles farm for years and NEVER had a problem. all the PTO shafts were the push-button type.And you could spin the tractors output shaft to line up the splines . Well I bought a kingkutter finish mower and DAMNED if it doesn't have the safety police coupler on it, pull back push forward, what a pos !! I could NOT spin the mower shaft.( too much drag ) and my new LS tractor with its hydraulic push-button PTO.Damned if I could spin the tractor shaft to line up the splines.I did look at TSC and they have the push-button yokes for around $40. It seems our litigation society has managed to F#$k up everything ! OOOOhh you might try to hook up a PTO with the tractor running and the PTO on so WE cant have THAT !!! If people were THAT stupid they shouldn't be allowed to breed and make more lawyers !