HELP RTV Electrical Problem

ajdillon · Sep 3, 2005

Help! I installed front and rear work lights on my RTV with a single pole double throw , center off switch, so I could turn on the front lights or the back lights, but not both at the same time, because I wasn't sure how much current both sets would draw. It worked just fine. Next I decided that I needed some spot light capability and, based on a suggestion from this board, I installed a GoLight spot. It has it's own relay and I merely hooked it up to a battery voltage I got by running a separate 4 circuit box off the cigarette lighter supply. I use that circuit box to run the feeder, a small fan I put in, and the spot light. They all work just fine. Now suddenly every time I turn on the worklights, front or back, the engine dies very suddenly. The lights also won't work when the engine is off and the ignition is on. The plug that has the output of the worklight relay (yellow/red wire) used to output 12 volts when the ignition was turned on or when the engine was running. Now I get nothing when the ignition is turned on and only 6 volts when the engine is running. I would appreciate any hints about where I went wrong.
Thanks in advance
AJDillon

ajdillon · Sep 3, 2005

One additional clue, I just jumped a battery cable up to both sets of work lights and they work fine, so that wiring appears not to be the problem.
AJDillon

ajdillon · Sep 3, 2005

I'm getting in deeper all the time. I jumped the accessory relay to see if that would get me 12 volts at the work light plug, but no joy. Now the engine won't stop even if you take the key out. I have to manually push the fuel (engine stop) solenoid to get it to shut down, even with the relay back in the circuit. Aren't there any electrical geniuses out there?
AJDillon

kennyd · Sep 4, 2005

It sounds like a possible grounding problem, like somthing is seeking a ground through a light bulb or very poor connection.

Are you using a common ground point for all these things, or just a wire to something metal wherever?

On these newer vehicles, (cars, trucks, boats, whatever) it is harder to find a GOOD ground with all the use of plastics, composites and vibration isolators.

CHECK THOSE GROUNDS! Bad ones can do crazy things! Ask anyone who has tried to diagnose trailer light problems...

bczoom · Sep 4, 2005

AJ,

Before we jump in real deep, there's a 5 amp fuse that if blown can cause the symptoms you're experiencing. I believe it'll be in fuse spot #9. It controls the panel as well as the engine stop control. Sounds like you have too much on that circuit.

The only place I can think of that should have 6 volts is the (c) terminal on the starter.

Brian

ajdillon · Sep 4, 2005

Thanks Brian (or should I say "Brain"?) Changing that fuse seems to have solved some of the problems. Engine shuts down now when you turn the key off. Spot light and worklights are both working and, since I switched the ground on the front worklight from the cigarette lighter ground to a chassis ground, turning on the worklights and the spot at the same time doesn't kill the engine. I'm still a little worried about the alternator. Before all of this mess across the battery measured 14 volts when the engine was running. Now it's only 12.3 volts. Should I take the big red wire off the alternator and measure its output when the engine is running?
Thanks again
AJDillon

ajdillon · Sep 4, 2005

BTW the warning light (electrical charge) is not on when the engine is running, but it doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on. before the engine starts. I don't remember whether or not it is supposed to be on before the key gets turned all the way to start.
AJDillon

bczoom · Sep 4, 2005

Glad it was as simple as a fuse (and changing the ground).

( I'm still a little worried about the alternator.) Are you thinking something in the alternator is bad?

When you tested your alternator, did you have it under load (all the lights on)? If you don't have a good load, or the battery is fully charged, you won't get a good reading.

( Should I take the big red wire off the alternator and measure its output when the engine is running?) Yes.

To test:
Start the engine.
Disconnect the cable on the + side of the battery.
You might need a helper for this but you need to get the engine RPM's up and keep it there.
Turn on all the lights (or whatever) to get a good electrical load.
Using a volt meter from the cable to a chassis ground, check the voltage. You should have between 14 and 15 volts.

Brian

bczoom · Sep 4, 2005

( BTW the warning light (electrical charge) is not on when the engine is running, but it doesn't come on when the ignition is turned on. before the engine starts. I don't remember whether or not it is supposed to be on before the key gets turned all the way to start.
AJDillon )

Yes. That's one that does come on when you turn initially turn the key to the ON position but go off as soon as you start it.

If it doesn't, give me a couple symptoms so we have a starting point. Are the other lights coming on? After replacing that fuse, do you still have that problem?

bczoom · Sep 4, 2005

Something else to consider for the future.

I've added 11 lights (not counting the 4 OEM) as well as a stereo, 320w amp... Although I try not to run everything at once, just a few is all it's going to take to overwhelm the alternator before you start pulling juice off the battery. I also use the lights/stereo when the engine isn't running (like last night sitting beside the bonfire with the kids. I had 1 55w light and the stereo/amp running for a couple hours off the battery).

I found out quickly that the OEM battery isn't going to like it and poops out. I've since replaced the OEM battery with the largest deep cycle marine battery I could fit. Haven't had a problem since.

Brian